ABS Delete people come in
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From: Rock Hill, South Carolina
ABS Delete people come in so the purpose of the abs delete is to make it look better after you take out the abs? it really doesnt do anything correct?
what if i just take my abs stuff out what will it look like without a abs delete kit installed?
what if i just take my abs stuff out what will it look like without a abs delete kit installed?
look @ the engine bay picture in this thread, you can see how I eliminated the abs. I reran all the lines and installed the manual master, and ran the line up and around the edge of the fender to the line lock. You'll get the idea, less crap in the way for when tyou're working on the engine, and a good bit of weight reduction. A good bit more if you strip all the wiring for the abs out as well.
The biased brakes, can be accomplished with a proportioning valve, which I didn't bother with. I don't think it's really nessassary on a drag car, I'm not even trying to make the first turn off, and I will add a parachute right quick if I even feel one bit uncomfortable with the stopping distance. Chute is going on next year regardless at this point, unless someone busts my ***** about going over 135/ faster then 9.99 without one.
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
We have ABS delete bolcks for both Manual brakes and the factory brakes. Our master does not need a proportioning valve if you will run slicks and skinnies.
If you do not want to use a block, check the Burkhart album here:
http://upgradeadvantage.spaces.live.com/
There are pics of a couple cars that we have done with our master and new lines.
If you do not want to use a block, check the Burkhart album here:
http://upgradeadvantage.spaces.live.com/
There are pics of a couple cars that we have done with our master and new lines.
Good. I heard that they were changing it to 9.99 or 135, glad to hear that didn't go thru this year.
No way am I seeing 150 this year, not with a 9.50 goal 140, maybe 142, but I can't really even see that being needed to get to 9.50
No way am I seeing 150 this year, not with a 9.50 goal 140, maybe 142, but I can't really even see that being needed to get to 9.50
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11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,089
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From: West Linn, Oregon
Steve,
Did I read that right, you don''t need a prop valve if we get the Burkhart kit?
If so then that might help me get this stuff quicker since that means less crap I need to buy, and figure out how to run the lines to...
Did I read that right, you don''t need a prop valve if we get the Burkhart kit?
If so then that might help me get this stuff quicker since that means less crap I need to buy, and figure out how to run the lines to...
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 3
From: West Linn, Oregon
so is it slicks and skinnies, or fatties and skinnies? I always run the skinnies since I have manual steering the hard way, but I switch between slicks and drag radials depending on what class I am running in. Is that still OK without a prop. valve?
I got everthing I needed at Oreilly Auto Parts. I changed the fittings on the lines to standered thread and reflared the lines. I got a distribution fitting that had two female and one male ends on it. I hooked the two front in it and the male side went into my proportioning valve. then the stock master cylinder line with std. thread fitting to the valve. On the rear I just had to use an adapter. with the std. thread fittings. I was to understand that if you didn't have a valve for the front breaks with skinings on it they would lock up when trying to brake hard?
So Steve, what all would I need if I want to go with manual brakes(stock brakes for now) and I want to delete the ABS at the same time. Slicks and skinnies. Just a to and from the track car.
If you want to convert to manual brakes and delete the abs completely, you can do that, and run the stock brakes if you want, or until you can get the $ for the drag brakes.
You will need the manual master cylinder, with or without line lock kit depending on what you currently have and want to do, and I would highly suggest the master cylinder brace, to stiffen the whole setup up.
Now you can either get the abs delete block and only fab your own lines to that, or redo all the lines on the car, cleaning alot of that up. It is a good bit of work though. That, is up to you, either way will work, doing all the lines over without the abs block is the cleaner way of doing it, but it will require a bit of work, and some craftsmanship.
You will need the manual master cylinder, with or without line lock kit depending on what you currently have and want to do, and I would highly suggest the master cylinder brace, to stiffen the whole setup up.
Now you can either get the abs delete block and only fab your own lines to that, or redo all the lines on the car, cleaning alot of that up. It is a good bit of work though. That, is up to you, either way will work, doing all the lines over without the abs block is the cleaner way of doing it, but it will require a bit of work, and some craftsmanship.
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,089
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From: West Linn, Oregon