Launching tips/ QA1 shock settings
Launching tips/ QA1 shock settings I went to the 1/4th with the trans am for the first time yesterday. I have a 9 inch rear QA1 adjustables with springs, weld in subframe connectors, BMR tq arm, bmr panhard bar.... oddly enough i dont have control arms yet (plan to pick up asap)
I was on MT et streets @ 14lbs on weld draglights but was unable to use my skinnies because my front studs were not long enough.... I was launching at around 4k rpm's, i tried launching around 5k and i lit them up big time
here is my best slip:
the majority of my 60 foots were in the 1.95 range
here is the run
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMm1CKAmku8
so any help as to some launching techniques, settings for the shocks, air in tires etc etc?
I was on MT et streets @ 14lbs on weld draglights but was unable to use my skinnies because my front studs were not long enough.... I was launching at around 4k rpm's, i tried launching around 5k and i lit them up big time
here is my best slip:
the majority of my 60 foots were in the 1.95 range
here is the run
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMm1CKAmku8
so any help as to some launching techniques, settings for the shocks, air in tires etc etc?
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
try to heat the tired up more and go a little higher up in the rpms off the launch, stiffin up the rear shocks.
awesome runs for the first time out with it. Get that 60 ft down and you'll be in the 11's in no time.
awesome runs for the first time out with it. Get that 60 ft down and you'll be in the 11's in no time.
if it makes any difference.... i left the block off plate in my Borla exhaust by accident (i completely forgot about it. On the street it FEELS a little faster with the plate out, not sure if this is in my head or it actually does make a difference
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I would set them as loose as possible in front, then in the rear try 6/6, if it's not a 10 setting shock set it to 50/50. Leave at the highest rpm you can and side step the clutch. No slipping, no riding it out, floor it and slip your foot off the side so it shocks the tire. The only reason to stiffen the front shocks are for wheelies.
If it hooks good stiffen the front shocks one click at a time to take out unneeded front lift one click at a time until you get the fastest 60ft.
If it hooks good stiffen the front shocks one click at a time to take out unneeded front lift one click at a time until you get the fastest 60ft.
-3 on the pinion angle of the torque arm. Panhard rod is double adjustable so the rear end is even from side to side. Double adjustable LCAs are in the bottom hole of the relocation brackets and adjusted so the 28" drag radial is completely centered in the wheel well. The upper and lower a-arms in the front have been properly aligned by a chassis shop. (I forget the caster/camber numbers). Then I have the 1" chrome moly Spohn sway bar to level out the car on the launch. 17psi HOT in the drag radials. And a 2500 RPM launch spraying the bitch out of the hole with a push button. 
-2 on the pinion angle of the full length torque arm. LCAs are in the bottom hole of the relocation brackets. The front was properly aligned by a chassis shop. Stock sway bar (for now)
I start with Front QA1R's 1/1 Rear QA1's 6/6 and 14 PSI in drag slicks for the first pass off the trailer. I then adjust from there depending on track and how it hooks.
This 11.83@117 run was a 1.6 60'
Shocks F1/1 R6/6
Tires F35 R14
Spun off the line
I start with Front QA1R's 1/1 Rear QA1's 6/6 and 14 PSI in drag slicks for the first pass off the trailer. I then adjust from there depending on track and how it hooks.
This 11.83@117 run was a 1.6 60'
Shocks F1/1 R6/6
Tires F35 R14
Spun off the line
