It appears I need some suspension help.
David,
I can afford pretty much anything I want. My junk works just fine. The best N/A sixty foot time from the Camaro so far is a 1.26 (on a 6.38 1/8 th mile pass at 3000 lbs). I am not suggesting that my set-up is for everyone, but it does work quite well and is easy to adjust in a hurry.
Take Care,
Daren
V6 springs are good cheater springs on the street, but for a car with adjustable shocks, you will end up just fighting the springs (quoting Madman from like 2002). I like the BMR rear bar because it has more room for adjust the shocks as Leo noted. I've run at US41 a bunch of times, and I usually run slicks at no less than 12 psi cold, front shocks at 1/1, and rears at 7/7. If the car spins I would drop the rears to 6/6 before I'd take air out of the tires. Some folks might reccomend running tire psi at 12 hot, but 14 hot drives pretty decent down the track. I found for me that 11/12 cold makes the car wander around more than I personally like.
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From: Whiteland, Indiana
I think the guy needs a Black Hood and Tinted Windows also.
Some of the fastest cars posting and running here have Black Hoods, right?
He needs tinted windows because at some point, it's even been point out prior to today, the guy should have addressed his suspension. Tinted Glass will hide who he is.
The right rear lowers and the drivers wheel pulls up because the engine, when it runs TURNS to the right or the left? This is sort of basic isn't it?
Is it possible some of the younger racers have added hp to the cars on several games they have and never addresses the suspension?
Jakes Dad
Some of the fastest cars posting and running here have Black Hoods, right?
He needs tinted windows because at some point, it's even been point out prior to today, the guy should have addressed his suspension. Tinted Glass will hide who he is.
The right rear lowers and the drivers wheel pulls up because the engine, when it runs TURNS to the right or the left? This is sort of basic isn't it?
Is it possible some of the younger racers have added hp to the cars on several games they have and never addresses the suspension?
Jakes Dad
I'm kinda lost here, but I do have UMI T/A set at -3 degrees, Comp Engineering 3-way shocks, KG adjustable LCAs. I have never had an issue with my car leaving like this, so I am assuming it's because the car has never had this much power before.. I don't know.
Thanks for the replies, guys, and PSJ I think what you said is probably the route I'll be taking.
Maybe put that tq arm at -1/-2, seems to me that -3 is a bit more than some might reccomend.
I have those same shocks in back. Might be good to run the car on motor too, so you can compare the gains.
Me on a 150 shot out of the hole at GLD:
I have those same shocks in back. Might be good to run the car on motor too, so you can compare the gains.
Me on a 150 shot out of the hole at GLD:
If you're on a budget the best way to go IMO is a Spohn dragbar (or similar piece) and dual rear airbags (separate fill lines).
The dragbar will stop the roll and the bags will stop the squat.
You can't run a single right airbag with the dragbar because it won't let it work right.
Ideally Hals all around will defiantely be a huge improvement to fine tune your suspension and get it to transfer weight without the squat.
I have the Sohn bar, Hals etc. but with the stock springs it was still squatting a bit much so instead of going with stiffer springs and being stuck with no adjustment I opted for the airbags. 1.29 60' best so far. Good luck.
-Mark
The dragbar will stop the roll and the bags will stop the squat.
You can't run a single right airbag with the dragbar because it won't let it work right.
Ideally Hals all around will defiantely be a huge improvement to fine tune your suspension and get it to transfer weight without the squat.
I have the Sohn bar, Hals etc. but with the stock springs it was still squatting a bit much so instead of going with stiffer springs and being stuck with no adjustment I opted for the airbags. 1.29 60' best so far. Good luck.
-Mark
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From: Gainesville, FL
An anti-roll bar would be a great addition to your car.
Check out the bolt on TRZ piece, its been 4.88 to the 1/8th mile, and is the lightest setup like this available:
http://www.trzmotorsports.com/34f203.htm
I think you will be really surprised how much an ARB helps. On my G-body, with stock control arms, poly bushings, stock el cheapo shocks the car will 60ft 1.40flat on a 275 MT Radial pass after pass. Before we installed a TRZ ARB it was all over the place, and the left front would hang 12" on a pass where it hooked.
Check out the bolt on TRZ piece, its been 4.88 to the 1/8th mile, and is the lightest setup like this available:
http://www.trzmotorsports.com/34f203.htm
I think you will be really surprised how much an ARB helps. On my G-body, with stock control arms, poly bushings, stock el cheapo shocks the car will 60ft 1.40flat on a 275 MT Radial pass after pass. Before we installed a TRZ ARB it was all over the place, and the left front would hang 12" on a pass where it hooked.
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Anti roll bar is a necessity on higher power cars, my buddy's car broke the ARB and he couldn't even roll on the throttle without picking the left front tire 18" off the ground while the right front was still on the ground.
The drag bars that are welded on all four points ride like ladder bars in a '68 Chevelle, but they are the best for drag racing. The Spohn and BMR stuff use 1/2 bushings and 1/2 bolting/welding and are not really noticeable.
So if V6 springs are out what springs should ppl use in the back??? Stock Z28 springs???????
Eibach Drag springs????? Something else????? I always thought soft was good but i'm starting to learn that is not the case.... referring to what PSJ said that Madman had mentioned in 02.....
Eibach Drag springs????? Something else????? I always thought soft was good but i'm starting to learn that is not the case.... referring to what PSJ said that Madman had mentioned in 02.....
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
90% street here is what I would recommend. Stay with the stock rear springs. They have gone plenty fast. Shocks would be next on the list. A good set of QA1s will work wonders. Look at the BMR extreem rear sway bar. We make a drag bar and I would not recommend a true drag bar (I don;t care who makes it) to any street car. The BMR bar has some flex in it and will work well on the street. A true drag bar is not fun over pot holes and such. It is also very hard on parts.
This combo has gone into the 9's and should work well for you. just my .02
This combo has gone into the 9's and should work well for you. just my .02
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From: Whiteland, Indiana
90% street here is what I would recommend. Stay with the stock rear springs. They have gone plenty fast. Shocks would be next on the list. A good set of QA1s will work wonders. Look at the BMR extreem rear sway bar. We make a drag bar and I would not recommend a true drag bar (I don;t care who makes it) to any street car. The BMR bar has some flex in it and will work well on the street. A true drag bar is not fun over pot holes and such. It is also very hard on parts.
This combo has gone into the 9's and should work well for you. just my .02
This combo has gone into the 9's and should work well for you. just my .02
Thanks for all the other replies, guys, I have a clear direction on where to go from here.
Previous owner bought them and never installed them. I got them towards the end of last season and installed them. Maybe 20-40 miles on them.
They go for $140 plus tax and handeling on summit.
How about $100 with the hardware and I get your stockers and hardware?
They go for $140 plus tax and handeling on summit.
How about $100 with the hardware and I get your stockers and hardware?