Which Gears??
Which Gears?? just recently swapped a TH350 for the 4L60E. i have a 3.70 gear in the rear. i need a crap load more gear so my car will get out of the whole again. here is the ?, i want to go to a 4.30 but a buddy of mine has a set of 4.56 he said that i could have. would the 4.56 be to much?
with the set up i have now on motor the car runs 8.6 at 84 MPH with a 2.02 60 foot. i have a TH350 with TCI 3200 stall with a 3.70 gear in the Ford 9" with 26X11.50 MT ET streets. let me know what you think
with the set up i have now on motor the car runs 8.6 at 84 MPH with a 2.02 60 foot. i have a TH350 with TCI 3200 stall with a 3.70 gear in the Ford 9" with 26X11.50 MT ET streets. let me know what you think
with 4.56's and a 26" tire you could get 126mph at 7000rpm in 3rd gear. 117@6500rpm. That is not factoring in tire growth or converter slipage so the numbers will prolly be closer to 122 and 113 respectevly
you did not mention where you shift the car and where your rev-limiter is.
will you be running 1/8 and 1/4 mile or 1/8 mile only?
you did not mention where you shift the car and where your rev-limiter is.
will you be running 1/8 and 1/4 mile or 1/8 mile only?
I would like to run both but i know that 4.56 would not work with 26" tire and 1/4 mile. 4.30 would be close but might run out on spray. i shift at about 6500 and rev limiter is set to 6800
http://www.f-body.org/gears/
BEST TOOL IN THE WORLD!
I used it to choose 4.56 gears for my car knowing I should run roughly 131/132 mph with my currect setup.
Accorrding to calculator I would top out at 131.5 @7200rpm. I ran 132+ because the calculator does not take into account for tire growth. I think thats prety damn accurate!
Once you figure out what MPH you epxect to run in the 1/4 on the bottle, you can choose your gearing based on the readouts you get from the link I gave you.
With a 218/222 cam and ported 853 heads and a 75wet shot, I ran 10.70@ 128.28mph in the 1/4 mile. Car weighed 3450lbs at the time. I know Im a 6speed so I should trap a little more then you. Maybe that can give you a basis on what MPH you should see.
The rest is simple...
Good Luck!
Alex
BEST TOOL IN THE WORLD!
I used it to choose 4.56 gears for my car knowing I should run roughly 131/132 mph with my currect setup.
Accorrding to calculator I would top out at 131.5 @7200rpm. I ran 132+ because the calculator does not take into account for tire growth. I think thats prety damn accurate!
Once you figure out what MPH you epxect to run in the 1/4 on the bottle, you can choose your gearing based on the readouts you get from the link I gave you.
With a 218/222 cam and ported 853 heads and a 75wet shot, I ran 10.70@ 128.28mph in the 1/4 mile. Car weighed 3450lbs at the time. I know Im a 6speed so I should trap a little more then you. Maybe that can give you a basis on what MPH you should see.
The rest is simple...
Good Luck!
Alex
Actually you need a good race converter before you need gears. If the converter stalls at 3200, that's killing it. Get that thing loosened up to about 4600 and the car will come to life.
4.10 gear would probably be ideal, run a 26 inch tire n/a and put a set of 28's on when you spray it, you'll want the added traction anyway.
4.10 gear would probably be ideal, run a 26 inch tire n/a and put a set of 28's on when you spray it, you'll want the added traction anyway.
how do i figure out all of my ratios for that calculator? im running a th350 with a 4500 stall and will be shifting around 7k and redline at 7300. would like to run a 28" tire but dont have to. and it will be on a 3 sage 350 hit. 100, 125, 125. and im trying to figure what gears to get also
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[QUOTE=JL ws-6;10000075]Actually you need a good race converter before you need gears. If the converter stalls at 3200, that's killing it. Get that thing loosened up to about 4600 and the car will come to life.
i dont need another convertor. i need to know about gears. i have had several converters in the car and the 3200 is the best by far. my car used to run 7.7 at 86MPh in the 1/8 with a 1.6 60'. now i am running 8.6 at 84MPH with a 2.02 60'. i dont need a convertor. i need gear to get out of the whole. i am simply asking if you think the 4.56 will be to much with a 26" tall tire for 1/8 mile. if so then i will have to wait untill i can buy a 4.30.
i dont need another convertor. i need to know about gears. i have had several converters in the car and the 3200 is the best by far. my car used to run 7.7 at 86MPh in the 1/8 with a 1.6 60'. now i am running 8.6 at 84MPH with a 2.02 60'. i dont need a convertor. i need gear to get out of the whole. i am simply asking if you think the 4.56 will be to much with a 26" tall tire for 1/8 mile. if so then i will have to wait untill i can buy a 4.30.
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Verdad Gallardo Put 4.56's in it, if it runs out of gear up the rev limiter.
But a converter stalling at 3200 for anything n/a is way wrong, ask the fast cam only guys what they ran, they all ran an ATI 5500 8 inch converter. But, I guess they don't know what they're doing.
But a converter stalling at 3200 for anything n/a is way wrong, ask the fast cam only guys what they ran, they all ran an ATI 5500 8 inch converter. But, I guess they don't know what they're doing.
that might be great for them. they might have the power for that much stall. i dont. i have had 4 different converters in this car in a 6 week period. a 4500, a 4000, a 3500 and the 3200 that is in it now. everything but the 3200 was way to loose. just remember that not all cars are the same. so what works for them might not for me. my car is pretty much bolt ons with small head work but for some reason it just blows trhough a loose converter. i guess i will try the 4.56 and if is to much i will step it down.
What does the car weigh? And when you say it blows thru the looser converter, did you calculate the slippage % at the top end?
Did the actual ET improve with the tighter converter, or are you going by feel on the street? Because every single n/a car I know of that runs anything resembling fast for what they are, is running at least a 4500 or higher converter.
Hell I'm running a 4200 converter with a 402 that's probably making 200 rwhp more then your mild h/c setup is with a 150 shot, when I ran it n/a I ran a 5400 rpm converter with it and it worked great. Put the 4200 in so it would take a bigger shot, and the car n/a now is a pig with this converter in it.
Did the actual ET improve with the tighter converter, or are you going by feel on the street? Because every single n/a car I know of that runs anything resembling fast for what they are, is running at least a 4500 or higher converter.
Hell I'm running a 4200 converter with a 402 that's probably making 200 rwhp more then your mild h/c setup is with a 150 shot, when I ran it n/a I ran a 5400 rpm converter with it and it worked great. Put the 4200 in so it would take a bigger shot, and the car n/a now is a pig with this converter in it.
3500 lbs and yes took it to the track every time. with the 3500 and 4000 and 4500 i was running between 9.2 and 10.00 on the 1/8 mile track. put the 3200 in and went to a 8.6. my MPH is there but the car has no take off. i will put the blowing through like this. a 3500 lbs car with a TH350 and 3.70 in the rear should be decent. not fast but decent. running a 10.00 at 75MPH and only needing 2nd gear means the converter was way to loose. would not even hook up enough to run through 2nd so i could shift to 3rd.
Last edited by FANCHERFAST; Aug 28, 2008 at 03:27 PM.
Something isn't right. If it was blowing thru the converter you should be in 3rd way sooner. I know what you are saying, and it would seem to make sense, but there's something else wrong. You're sure the tranny is good and it's not slipping, and you don't have any kind of traction problems?
What did the 60 foot times look like with all of the converters, the car should be 60 footing harder with the looser converter. Are you trying to stall it up, or flashing it off idle? Transbrake?
I went 10.5 off the footbrake last year n/a with the 5400 rpm converter, so even if you don't have a brake in the car it should still run better then that.
Are you sure the tranny is full of fluid? The aftermarket dipsticks are bogus, you need to fill it up until some comes out the overflow, and when it stops overflowing, check the dipstick and mark it where the fluid is so you know it's full. I've seen cars pisk up a 1/4 second just from adding a qt of tranny fluid.
Do you have a dyno sheet on the car? What does it make for power? Where are you shifting it?
Any video of the runs?
Just seems like there's something else missing/strange... TH350 1st gear is 2.75, there's not a huge difference from that and a 4ljunkie tranny.
What did the 60 foot times look like with all of the converters, the car should be 60 footing harder with the looser converter. Are you trying to stall it up, or flashing it off idle? Transbrake?
I went 10.5 off the footbrake last year n/a with the 5400 rpm converter, so even if you don't have a brake in the car it should still run better then that.
Are you sure the tranny is full of fluid? The aftermarket dipsticks are bogus, you need to fill it up until some comes out the overflow, and when it stops overflowing, check the dipstick and mark it where the fluid is so you know it's full. I've seen cars pisk up a 1/4 second just from adding a qt of tranny fluid.
Do you have a dyno sheet on the car? What does it make for power? Where are you shifting it?
Any video of the runs?
Just seems like there's something else missing/strange... TH350 1st gear is 2.75, there's not a huge difference from that and a 4ljunkie tranny.
just had the tranny built last month. and not all TH350 have the 2.75 first gear. most of them came with the 2.52 and you have to upgrade to get the 2.75. mine has the 2.52. all of the 60 foots where in the 2.02 to 2.15 range. i tried everyway to flash the converter. leave at idle, footbrake all the way up. even took the car back to the tranny builder and he says that fluid level is fine and tranny seamed to be OK. i do have video of the runs so i might post them up when i get home. i do have dyno sheet but it is old when the car had the 4l60E tranny in with a locked converter. makes 365 HP and 405 tq through the 4l60E with a 3000 TCI stall and same rear and gear as now 9" with spool and 3.70 gear. i am shifting at about 6500 with rev set at 6800. motor has about 155,000 miles and dont want to blow up untill i have money saved for new one. i dont know what is wrong but i am going to try gears.
Try the gears, the thing that I see that bothers me the most, is the 60 foot. That's what I would expect from a stock car with stock tires on it. That's leaving so lazy, it makes me think that there's some type of tune related issue or something going on, or you're blowing the tires away and don't realize it.
Please do post up the video, that may tell alot more. I hate to see people struggle with their cars..... please understand I want to help.
Please do post up the video, that may tell alot more. I hate to see people struggle with their cars..... please understand I want to help.
tried to upload videos and they wont. must be to big a file and i dont feel like messing with. pm your email address and i will email them to you. promise not to laugh cause it is a turd out of the hole.
n_lambert@sbcglobal.net. Shoot them over, I'm not gonnn laugh, becuase it may show what the problem is. I think you have a 1/2 second to knock off in the 60 foot IMO, which will translate to about .7 off the 1/8th mile time.
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3200 stall is what is causing the 2.0 60's. With the taller 1st gear, converter choice becomes more critical. There must have been something wrong with the other converters you tried.
What do you consider "blowing thru" the converter? On my car (I-6 turbo), it meant the tach was stuck on 8000 the whole run! But the ET and MPH were off only a little.
If you go to 4.56's, also switch to 28's, esp with a 350 shot!
Al
What do you consider "blowing thru" the converter? On my car (I-6 turbo), it meant the tach was stuck on 8000 the whole run! But the ET and MPH were off only a little.
If you go to 4.56's, also switch to 28's, esp with a 350 shot!
Al
