need to archive this for others to use: battery relocation
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From: no stops signs, no speed limits .... on a highway to hell
Thread Starter
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From: no stops signs, no speed limits .... on a highway to hell
Re: need to archive this for others to use: battery relocation call be butthead?
hey, anyone have pictures of their connection method for an LS1?
I am thinking of a using distribution box for car stereos and just cutting the two positive wires running to the battery now .... splicing them together and running to the distribution box. Then running the new cable to this box. Route the old ground cable to a location on the frame (Alan Futral suggested the sway bar bracket).
This should work huh?
hey, anyone have pictures of their connection method for an LS1?
I am thinking of a using distribution box for car stereos and just cutting the two positive wires running to the battery now .... splicing them together and running to the distribution box. Then running the new cable to this box. Route the old ground cable to a location on the frame (Alan Futral suggested the sway bar bracket).
This should work huh?
Re: need to archive this for others to use: battery relocation Did one of you mods delete my post?
I pointed out last night that the pics are of an LT1 car and it's easier to run the wire on the other side of the car on an LS1 car.
I pointed out last night that the pics are of an LT1 car and it's easier to run the wire on the other side of the car on an LS1 car.
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From: Troy, AL
Re: need to archive this for others to use: battery relocation Not that I know of, Joe. Why would we? 
Why would it be easier to run it down the driver's side. I ran mine down the passenger's side.
Why would it be easier to run it down the driver's side. I ran mine down the passenger's side.
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Re: need to archive this for others to use: battery relocation Okay. I just remembered posting it. Come to think of it the site was unavailable with those database errors for a few minutes after that happenned..hmm.
Anyway, on an ls1 car you don't have that positive battery terminal on the passenger side like that. It is on the driver's side by the fuse box.
What I did was run a cable from the positive post by the fuse panel back to the trunk where I put a battery box. I ran the ground from the battery to the frame. I ran new #4 cables I made myself to the starter and alternator. IT was pretty damn simple once I found all the parts. I used #1 welding cable for the main wires.
Anyway, on an ls1 car you don't have that positive battery terminal on the passenger side like that. It is on the driver's side by the fuse box.
What I did was run a cable from the positive post by the fuse panel back to the trunk where I put a battery box. I ran the ground from the battery to the frame. I ran new #4 cables I made myself to the starter and alternator. IT was pretty damn simple once I found all the parts. I used #1 welding cable for the main wires.
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From: no stops signs, no speed limits .... on a highway to hell
Re: need to archive this for others to use: battery relocation
Do you have to have an external cutoff switch if you relocate your battery?
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From: no stops signs, no speed limits .... on a highway to hell
Re: need to archive this for others to use: battery relocation Still have a ground issues somewhere, it was there before I relocated the battery. The PCM resets back to 0 miles each time and the guages go up and down after cranking. ANyone know of a common ground wire or spot missed when reinstalling the engione or making a relocation? I have looked everywhere and can't find anything unhooked. I did leave the stock battery ground hooked to the stock place on the shock tower.
just finished the relocation ... couple of tips;
1.) bought a AudioPipe distribution box at the local car stereo store ($30) 1-#1 guage in and 4-#4 guage outs. Mounted where the stock battery used to be.
2.) The Taylor kit doesn't mount level in the back, I cut a piece of 2x4 to level it out
3.) Need at least 4 5/16 bolts minimum of 4 inches 4" long
just finished the relocation ... couple of tips;
1.) bought a AudioPipe distribution box at the local car stereo store ($30) 1-#1 guage in and 4-#4 guage outs. Mounted where the stock battery used to be.
2.) The Taylor kit doesn't mount level in the back, I cut a piece of 2x4 to level it out
3.) Need at least 4 5/16 bolts minimum of 4 inches 4" long
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From: no stops signs, no speed limits .... on a highway to hell
Re: need to archive this for others to use: battery relocation From the NHRA Website ... notice the part about NHRA approved sealed battery box
I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
Re: need to archive this for others to use: battery relocation My marine battery box is accepted according to the NHRA?I dont have a cutouff though and they broke my ***** the last time I raced so now I dont drive in without the speaker grilles in place 
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Re: need to archive this for others to use: battery relocation the box mentioned above is the only plastic box that is NHRA approved
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From: Picatinny Arsenal, NJ
Originally Posted by java
From the NHRA Website ... notice the part about NHRA approved sealed battery box
I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
Does anybody know if the Taylor battery relocation kit and/or the aluminum battery box already has the kill switch included? If not, then where can I buy a kill switch? Thanks in advance for the info.
