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Old Oct 6, 2008 | 12:38 AM
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Default Bogging?

I dont drag race but when I do my m6 ss is a pain to launch. It bogs out and if I pass 3000 rpm's its nothing but smoke. I hear that the the m6 Trans Am's dont do it. Any ideas or techniques? My car is stock with free mods and a tune so its not making rediculous amounts of power but it it a lot different from my last car which was a fox stang. And I'm planning on getting some dr's, is that dangerous for my 10 bolt?
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Old Oct 6, 2008 | 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by mateols1ss
I dont drag race but when I do my m6 ss is a pain to launch. It bogs out and if I pass 3000 rpm's its nothing but smoke. I hear that the the m6 Trans Am's dont do it. Any ideas or techniques? My car is stock with free mods and a tune so its not making rediculous amounts of power but it it a lot different from my last car which was a fox stang. And I'm planning on getting some dr's, is that dangerous for my 10 bolt?
Yes, M6+DR+10 bolt=broken 10 bolt! That is pretty much the only way your going to get an M6 car to "launch" without bogging or spinning. Some folks are good at slipping the clutch or starting slow and laying into it once the car is rolling. I could never do either without fuc***g up so I broke my 10 bolt and got a 9"!: You might want to try adding some after market suspension items like LCA relocating brackets and a TA. If you can prevent axle hop your 10 bolt will live longer under your car with DR's. You'll still want to start saving for another rear if you spend much time at the track. All my friends have fox Mustangs and our f-body's are completly different machines, by different I mean better!
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Old Oct 6, 2008 | 01:53 PM
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Hey man thanks for the info. I just had my 10 bolt rebuilt because the money was pretty tight and one of my buddies works at a shop specializing in diffs but if I had enough I would of definately done a 9 inch or 12 bolt. But yea I'm gonna invest on the LCA relocating brackets and a TA because the wheel hop on this thing is nasty. Thanks for your help!!!
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