slip it. keeps the motor from bogging, reduces wheel hop, and improves 60'.

 

and wears on the clutch..if you wanna slip it stay out of drag racing

 

I would have to agree with speedshifterNC.

When I ran my 6spd WS6 car I would launch at 3K and side step the clutch, granted it only ran 12.75 at 109+ MPH and only had 1,700 miles on it and it was mostly stock with the 10 bolt and DR's so I was easy on it. It now has 25,000 miles on it with the same clutch and stock rearend.

I would think with what you have and you are running ET Streets you should start somewhere around 3,800 RPM's and go from there. I have known several people that launch around 4K to 4.5K with your mods and tires.

N2

 

So I guess you don't use the brakes at the end of the track, so you don't wear out pads .

I launch 6500-7000 depending on track conditions slipping the clutch, not riding the clutch. Instead of sidestepping off the pedal I let it out very quickly. That way has netted my best 60" of 1.32.

 

there's only one way to get on the brakes and atleast 3 ways to engage the clutch so what's your point?

thats interesting that you "slip" the clutch as I've only heard that working with awd turbo cars

 

Every time I see posts like this, it makes me laugh... no one I have ever seen run sick times in a 6speed "dumps" the clutch. There is always a degree of slip.

If you have a good clutch, then slipping it will not be a problem. I slip the clutch on every 6000-7000rpm launch. I don't burn the **** out it but I do not dump it either. If you dump the clutch, the car will bog, or spin. If you slip the clutch QUICKLY if will keep the revs up and will be a smooth hard launch. The revs will stay up and carry the car nicely out of the whole.

I am by no means the end all be all authority of 6speed driving, but I think the video that has been posted on this forum many times of me driving my car speaks for itself.

 

Great explanation. Hopefully some of these people will learn from this post. Dumping the clutch is something you do to make the tires spin, like most of of did when we first got are new f-bodies.

 

I guess it depends on your setup. I actually tried slipping the clutch at first to no aveil. I kept spinning or bogging. Then I dumped it and hooked hard and took off. So it looks like there is a time for both

 

slip it gets me my best 60' and hence 1/4 mile times. and is easier on my transmission, rear-end, chassis, suspension, wheel studs, etc...

I'd rather change a clutch than a rear end and a busted torque arm.

Build a light weight car and slip the clutch. The lighter you get it, the more agressive you can be with the clutch.

 

i agree with this. ill be slipping mine to some degree because ill be backing a lot of power with a big block and a turbo. wanted to do something different with my car then an lsx ot ltx and try to get close to the current 6 speed record.

 

as long as it works I'll be side stepping mine...I love the feeling of hooking hard and cringing off the line. The op might as well try both to see what works for him as thats how we all found out anyway

 

I tried slipping before but was not very consistant.
this is from yesterday. clutch slipped but not cause I wanted it tooooo.
the spec III x-pad has had a long and abused life
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kWyY_kNQHw

 

I appreciate the replies and many different views which each are revelant. I have tried both ways in the past but on different cars. Ex. my 88 hatchback 5.0, car maybe had 280 rwhp with minor suspension but from a 5500 drop it cut a best of 1.58, I have yet to duplicate such a 60ft with my 03 SC Cobra or any of my other cars including my Camaro which had from 100 to 200 more rwhp. However up until now I didn't have a choice but to baby it out of the hole. I will try both ways in the up coming weeks and post my results. I have set a goal of 11s na for my car and I'm striving to learn the best practices to get there.
Thanks again!

 

Dump that bitch!

 

I have a RAM adjustable clutch because I can't cut a light and slip the clutch myself. My short before was 1.47x with the 11" cheater slicks spinning. Yesterday I finally got it backed off enough to start slipping and my short was 1.41x and it carried the front wheels for the first time ever. You will always et better slipping the clutch than the tires, and that is especially true with street tires.

 

If you run a good pressure plate and stock style clutch, the clutch will slip a bit anyway. This works good up to a certain power point side stepping. Then I guess you have to slip it a bit as I haven't ventured into high horsepower territory

 

you kept spinning or bogging???? WTF does that mean?

And I guess you are running street tires , right?

 

I bring the clutch up just till it wants to pull. I hold it around 6,500rpm's and on 3rd yellow I dump the bit*h. 1.42 60's n/a.

 

I love the 2-step / clutch dump approach. Makes it simple and painless. If you spin, lower the 2-step. If you hook, raise it the next pass. I usually ended up between 5800-6200.

 

It really depends on the tire and suspension. Bias ply sidewalls since softer than a radial need a good bit of "hit" to give them the rubber band effect. In addtion, you need a loose front end to transfer the weight and put instant load on the tires.

With a radial a constant hit (not extreme) yeilds a better 60. I used to run radials and was fighting the bog or spin. Too high or too low of rpms. A harder sidewall makes it more tricky to launch.

If the suspension gives good weight transfer than I'd dump it if running slicks. Slip it for radials. My $.02

-Mark