Is my cammed a4 where it should be?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 90
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From: Pacific Ocean, US.
Is my cammed a4 where it should be? 2001 trans am a4.
3.23 rear gears
tr224 .561/.561. 112 lsa.
Slp loudmouth II
MTI air lid
stock headers, y, and cats.
Stock stall
347.7 rwhp 337.3 ft lbs of torque
I was told by the shop they are great numbers for stock headers and cats. The run before that made a bit over 350rwhp but it was right at peak and was sacraficing a lot through the powerband.
Also the chart reads by mph not rpm. It cuts out before 145 mph. I had bumped up the redline by 200rpm. Should it have ran further? I have the stock 16 inch wheels and factory tires.
3.23 rear gears
tr224 .561/.561. 112 lsa.
Slp loudmouth II
MTI air lid
stock headers, y, and cats.
Stock stall
347.7 rwhp 337.3 ft lbs of torque
I was told by the shop they are great numbers for stock headers and cats. The run before that made a bit over 350rwhp but it was right at peak and was sacraficing a lot through the powerband.
Also the chart reads by mph not rpm. It cuts out before 145 mph. I had bumped up the redline by 200rpm. Should it have ran further? I have the stock 16 inch wheels and factory tires.
2001 trans am a4.
3.23 rear gears
tr224 .561/.561. 112 lsa.
Slp loudmouth II
MTI air lid
stock headers, y, and cats.
Stock stall
347.7 rwhp 337.3 ft lbs of torque
I was told by the shop they are great numbers for stock headers and cats. The run before that made a bit over 350rwhp but it was right at peak and was sacraficing a lot through the powerband.
Also the chart reads by mph not rpm. It cuts out before 145 mph. I had bumped up the redline by 200rpm. Should it have ran further? I have the stock 16 inch wheels and factory tires.
3.23 rear gears
tr224 .561/.561. 112 lsa.
Slp loudmouth II
MTI air lid
stock headers, y, and cats.
Stock stall
347.7 rwhp 337.3 ft lbs of torque
I was told by the shop they are great numbers for stock headers and cats. The run before that made a bit over 350rwhp but it was right at peak and was sacraficing a lot through the powerband.
Also the chart reads by mph not rpm. It cuts out before 145 mph. I had bumped up the redline by 200rpm. Should it have ran further? I have the stock 16 inch wheels and factory tires.
What is your shift point/limiter set at?
Take it to the track, dyno numbers mean nothing. 
You should have done a converter before anything.. Since you didn't it would be my next mod no matter what, before manifolds, cutout, anything.
You should have done a converter before anything.. Since you didn't it would be my next mod no matter what, before manifolds, cutout, anything.
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Thoes are still good numbers. I am in the same boat you are, got a cam before stall, but that will change real soon. Other question is, did you get a good tune. The right tune in will give you the best results for the setup you have. When you do a change such as cam or heavy stall, you need to retune to get the benifit of the change.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Pacific Ocean, US.
Thanks for the input. As far as I know, it was a good tune. The car needed a new fuel pump and originally dyno'd at 224rwhp!!!! After the tune it bumped up to 310rwhp.
The fuel pump and more tuning got it to 350rwhp but with less power through the whole curve. He showed me those results along with the next tune which peaked at 347.7 rwhp but far more horsepower throughout the curve.
As soon as I get the emailed results of the dyno, I'll put them up. I am pretty sure this guy is reputable. There aren't too many places to go in Oahu to get a tune, so it was either this or a mail order. The shift points are now supposed to be at 6200 rpm.
The fuel pump and more tuning got it to 350rwhp but with less power through the whole curve. He showed me those results along with the next tune which peaked at 347.7 rwhp but far more horsepower throughout the curve.
As soon as I get the emailed results of the dyno, I'll put them up. I am pretty sure this guy is reputable. There aren't too many places to go in Oahu to get a tune, so it was either this or a mail order. The shift points are now supposed to be at 6200 rpm.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Pacific Ocean, US.
And yeah, I went with the cam first because I was about to deploy and had always wanted a cammed car. It wasn't my brightest moment, but I still love it. The car pulls strong.I really want to put a stall but I really cant afford to buy one and pay to have it installed. I am likely going to complete my exhaust setup first. I know it wont be as big of a performance increase, but I'm really looking forward to hearing that lope through long tubes and some high flow cats.
The guy who tuned my car also said I should go with the stall next, but he had told me that I'll likely see a bigger jump from long tubes and a y pipe than someone would running a stock cam. Is there any proof to back this up? I know most go with bolt ons before the cam, but anyone know of any results?
The guy who tuned my car also said I should go with the stall next, but he had told me that I'll likely see a bigger jump from long tubes and a y pipe than someone would running a stock cam. Is there any proof to back this up? I know most go with bolt ons before the cam, but anyone know of any results?
Those are pretty much the results i had back 5-6 years ago with almost the same exact mod setup. So Id say those numbers are dead on for what you have
Headers and a converter will make it a different car which is alot more fun to drive
Headers and a converter will make it a different car which is alot more fun to drive
He is probably a decent tuner if he took a loss of peak numbers to give you more throughout the curve.
A full exhaust setup is not going to gain you anywhere near what a converter will gain you and it will cost the same amount of money. Why would you not do a converter first? HP is NOT everything. You are going to have a high horsepower car that sounds mean as **** but runs like a dog. Not something I would want personally.
You will most definitely see more out of LTs/exhaust than a stock or bolt on car would. But everyone always sees the most gains with a converter.
I urge you to get a converter next.
A full exhaust setup is not going to gain you anywhere near what a converter will gain you and it will cost the same amount of money. Why would you not do a converter first? HP is NOT everything. You are going to have a high horsepower car that sounds mean as **** but runs like a dog. Not something I would want personally.
You will most definitely see more out of LTs/exhaust than a stock or bolt on car would. But everyone always sees the most gains with a converter.
I urge you to get a converter next.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Pacific Ocean, US.
I am on the verge of getting a free catted pacesetter y pipe, and a set of headers starts at $300. The only two sites I tend to browse are Thunder Racing and WS6 Store. A 3600ish rpm torque converter seems to be going for around the $800 range. Shipping to Hawaii is crazy expensive and I dont believe I'm at the skill level to put a converter in like I'd be to put in an exhaust, and labor is a premium over here. So I'm talking of a $300-$650 project, or what will end up being around a $1400 project.
Perhaps I'm failing at looking for a better price on converters, and maybe putting one in is easier than I think.
Perhaps I'm failing at looking for a better price on converters, and maybe putting one in is easier than I think.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Pacific Ocean, US.
As we are on the subject, I figured I'd mention:
I just started looking more at other people's dynos, and it occurred to me; if the same two modified a4 cars are dynoed, the one with the higher stall will make a bit less horsepower. Knowing that, I realized why they measure them in mph instead of rpm. Because, on a dyno that measures mph, the amount of torque and horsepower down low is increased DRAMATICALLY.
I had already known a stall makes a bigger difference on an a4 car than a cam or any bolt on can, but now that the numbers make more sense to me, it really clears a lot up. An A4 with a 4000 rpm stall may be a bit more loose and not dyno as high as a stock converter car, but as it's flashing right to 4000 rpm, you are making whatever horsepower or torque numbers you'd normally be making at that rpm(or close to it, it seems?), but at a lower speed. Are my observations correct?
EDIT: I also assume the stall would eliminate the feeling that my car wants to take off on me at a stoplight even when I have the breaks on.
I just started looking more at other people's dynos, and it occurred to me; if the same two modified a4 cars are dynoed, the one with the higher stall will make a bit less horsepower. Knowing that, I realized why they measure them in mph instead of rpm. Because, on a dyno that measures mph, the amount of torque and horsepower down low is increased DRAMATICALLY.
I had already known a stall makes a bigger difference on an a4 car than a cam or any bolt on can, but now that the numbers make more sense to me, it really clears a lot up. An A4 with a 4000 rpm stall may be a bit more loose and not dyno as high as a stock converter car, but as it's flashing right to 4000 rpm, you are making whatever horsepower or torque numbers you'd normally be making at that rpm(or close to it, it seems?), but at a lower speed. Are my observations correct?
EDIT: I also assume the stall would eliminate the feeling that my car wants to take off on me at a stoplight even when I have the breaks on.
Last edited by Mr.Slow; Jan 29, 2010 at 05:15 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 130
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Yes, a stall will get rid of the pull at a stop. Pulling a transmission isn't a big deal at all, I've done it by myself a couple times but it goes much easier with a friend. Use the auto hobby shop, it'll save you a lot of money. Hardest part of the whole process is reaching all of the bolts in the tunnel, but that is just a bit of patience and not any more intensive.
I'm curious if he locked the converter during the runs?
Don't sound too bad, but the stock manifolds and cats are bottling it up a lot. You are right by saying bigger inrease with your cam than with stock cam.
Most bolt on/header/ORY a4 cars I tune lay down at least 350hp 360tq. Its not crazy to say you will pick up at least 20rwhp or more with longtubes.
Don't sound too bad, but the stock manifolds and cats are bottling it up a lot. You are right by saying bigger inrease with your cam than with stock cam.
Most bolt on/header/ORY a4 cars I tune lay down at least 350hp 360tq. Its not crazy to say you will pick up at least 20rwhp or more with longtubes.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Pacific Ocean, US.
That's pretty cool, thanks for the info. You think with my cam and upgraded valve springs/push rods, it'd be safe and worthwhile to perhaps bump up the shift points to 6400? It seems my car's horsepower doesn't drop down much at all towards the top of the powerband, And bumping up my shift points would put me in a way better place in the next gear. That would be great for the time being until I get my converter. My tuner said he bumped it up 200rpm already, but it's hard to tell, as I don't think the factory gauges keep up very well.
That's pretty cool, thanks for the info. You think with my cam and upgraded valve springs/push rods, it'd be safe and worthwhile to perhaps bump up the shift points to 6400? It seems my car's horsepower doesn't drop down much at all towards the top of the powerband, And bumping up my shift points would put me in a way better place in the next gear. That would be great for the time being until I get my converter. My tuner said he bumped it up 200rpm already, but it's hard to tell, as I don't think the factory gauges keep up very well.