i would like to ask you about the TR224 .563 112 cams.
i have stock engine with 3" headers pipe.

 

i would like to know if this cam smooth like a stock cam and with a stock engine. what HP and TQ i will get from this cam. i'm planing to do porting to the heads and the intakes. plzzzz help me.

 

Nice.. that is about what I got too. My shift points are at 6450

 

thanks deez, i like ur ET!

 

Thanks Tripp... keep your eye on that too. I should be cutting it down bit by bit. Good luck

 

WAIT A MINUTE! DeeZ, Your dynoing 373rwhp on an auto?!?!

 

Yep I sure am... with a locked converter.

355/436 unlocked

 

LOL i bet you meant 355rwhp/336rwtq

Good numbers, awesome time, and NICE 60 ft!

 

Nope sure didnt... the 436 is from the coverter flashing

 

The peak # is nice but what I really like is the Tq. curve! That is gonna be really nice on the street. I would shift at 6400. Nice job.

 

can someone quickly explain the unlocked and locked torque converter stuff?

why 436rwtq? Dont understand. I never looked into the automatics I guess.

 

the torque converter is our best advantage. It stores the "flash" inertia and lets loose when you mat it at the track, hence why m6's are always playing catchup off the dig.

I can simply floor the bitch and it hookes (ET's). my dyno below is with a very similar cam (224/226) not much difference. the STR generates massive low end torque to cut those great 1/8th mile.

Typically an M6 car that can launch at 6500rpm on slicks can run the same 1/4 as a automatic on nitto's with a good driver (its not easy to hook nitto's with so much torque).

My 365whp not exactly tuned (shift points) and too small verter ran best of 12.163@112.60mph on nitto's. hotlapping on a +40F day i got best of 12.269 with ET's (ECT/TRANS temp =225 ouch!).

You can see the stock versus tci ssf3500/cam/boltons/gear mods in my sig dyno.

I can totally annihilate the nittos at 25psi hot at under 30mph by pressing the gas.

the 12.163 was shifting at 6089rpm and dropping back to 4600. This is NOT OPTIMAL for such a cam (see my dyno). Now i shift at 6600 dropping back to 5010. STILL NOT optimal. A bigger verter would yield a shift of 6600 -> 6000rpm (way more optimal).

The whole idea is to run the 1/4 mile (after hooking hard) at the maximum average peak whp. For you M6 guys that means ASP pulley, lightened flywheel and damn fast shifting. For us A4 guys that means buying the right verter from the start Something i did not do... (to small).

unlocked A4 dyno's are all that count, because unless you have superman transmission, its not likely you will shift with the TCC locked up anways.

I had torque management on both runs (12.2/12.1) that reduced my timing to ZERO on shifts. This has been dealt with reasonably. I have 71K on my tranny so im not expecting it to be as fast as a new fresh upgraded rebuild. Just dont have the coins.

Nitto's are basically near impossible to hook on my setup. I have too much off the line torque. ET Streets make launching way easier. idle at lights, when they drop punch it, and hold the hell on.

Good tuning goes a long way too And keeping the trans (A4) fluid cool and ect's cool. I've reprogrammed my fans to work a little better now.

I may try locking the TCC at the track (30 seconds to flash a new program) and see what she does. If i nuke the trans, well it has 71K on it, no biggie. rebuild time.

Tracks around here are not like texas, so we don't get the DA advantage some of you guys have. Same with prep. When you got 400 cars, and 30 are running slicks, 20 dr's, and the rest street tires (going thru the water box lol) you can't expect a track to respond as well.

365whp unlocked on an A4 with some mileage is an 11 second card TUNED properly, and pushing the limits (of motor/trans/traction). My goal is 12.0 consistent, as the track closest likes to perma-ban you for no cage and i'm not gonna put more weight in.

I don't know DA. But with the sub-par tune (low rpm shift 6089 & Tq mgmt) at 50F temps, after about 200+ passes, i pulled the best on my nitto's by letting the car cool down a little on nitto's. I spun them regardless, but still got my 12.1.

Common bs = a4 car's cant pull on m6's with similar mods. Sorry. If you can program your TCC lockup and shift points, you can very much hang with a M6 on a roll. But we all know racing from a roll is for pussies

I got $4000 into my car. The car cost $12K (66K miles) that money includes all the tuning (pro) install, retuning (pro), hptuners, and other goodies. its my daily. It runs 3653lbs raceweight. I think with nitto's i can throw a spare tire in the back or something to get more traction.

There's alot of misconceptions on A4's. People say they are easy to launch. I will bet your $20 that you can't run as fast as me on my A4 if you've never run one before in 4 runs. It's not easy on nitto's. Everyone thats tried was like "whoa this isn't easy".

Now with ET's its a totally different story. Burnout -> idle at lights, stab and steer. Real easy. My motor does not have enough TQ to blast the ET's.

I could spend $600 on a 4000rpm stall and do 11's easy all day long. I could spend $1799 on heads and do 11's all day long. But again. I dont want a cage. My family rides around in my car. It's not for me.

Here's the basic gist of your answer now that my rant is over:
Tuning: Locking up the TC can allow more finesse tuning.
Driving: You will not drag/etc locked up, you will destroy your tranny unless its a superman tranny/verter combo. Some are. Mine isn't.
Launching: Always unlocked, the inertia from flash stalling the verter is what gives us the 60 foot time that requires SERIOUS rear end/clutch M6 work to achieve.

So i see it this way:
Dyno the A4 unlocked, its what your gonna run it as (most people).
Dyno the A4 locked, dyno queen numbers, bench racers etc, or a trans/verter with *****. NOT recommended for stock verters nor trannies unless you like to rebuild them.

feel free to argue, i don't claim to know it all, but i've watched/get opinions from skilled m6 drivers and seen the results.

12.6-13.0 from an m6 driver on my car.
12.268 from me on the same day, etc, not cooling it down.

I think the biggest misunderstanding people have is that A4's are easy, there's no skill involved, and thats b/s for most "cam/bolton" a4's.

There's no b/s in my dyno. It was consistent. Never underestimate a good hookin' A4 with low unlocked hp #'s. It's very likely a 380-400whp M6 with 12/8.8/9 inch ET streets and superman clutch and great driver will get pwned by a 350-365whp a4 on nitto's and a DAMN good driver who can launch the nitto's and roll the throttle to keep it from spinning.

oh yeah, and i can't use the line "i missed 4th". Hell i never get into 4th. I can't miss 3rd either unless i torch the tranny.

lol.

 

samz28, thanks a ton for the explanation. I learned a lot today thanks to your reply.

You also cleared a lot of BS I thought I new about A4s and verters as I too thought launching those is a piece of cake.

From your mods I can see an EASY 11 sec car.

Again thank you, good post, nice car, and great 1/4 mile and dyno numbers

 

What did you dyno before the tune? I'm wondering how much power is a tune worth.

 

with the tune u will see A LOT more rwhp and rwtq through out ur powerband. u would only see a little gain in peak rwhp with a tune.

 

on my FIRST tune it made 350rwhp and 360rwhp after more and more tweaking.

This was before the headers install.