Thought I would post this up. Last fall I pulled the 402 out of the T/A, it had terrible piston slap since I got it, (used shortblock) and figured on a quick rebuild. Well one thing leads to another and after seeing that the block would need to be decked ect.. I decided that I could sell my rotating assembly, fast intake, Mamofied AFR 225's ect to help offset the cost of a new shortblock. Turned out my heads had some issues, but I did sell them on ebay for 1k. So it didnt end up quite as even as I had thought. But anyway here is the build

98 t/a m6
441 ERL shortblock
custom Weisco pistons for 11.25:1 CR
Callies Dragonslayer crank
Callies rods
Ect... the lower end is stout as hell.
Caddy LSA (ls3) heads CNC ported by Wagner motorsports here in WI
Comp cam 54-472-11 243/259 .624/.624 on a 114 lsa
Take off ls3 intake manifold with injectors, not ported.
NW 92mm T/B
ARH 1 7/8" headers
Magnaflow Cat back with cutout in I pipe
Went back to stock balancer

Street tuned the car,(i do all my own tuning) put 500 miles on her, then took it up to the dyno to dial in the timing. Dyno was a AWD mustang dyno, so keep that in mind, the owner said that his dyno typically reads 12-15% lower than the dynojet down the street.

This was on my heavy street rims (TT2's) and a strange 12 bolt with 4.11 gears.

Baseline pull was 458/436. Obviously disappointing numbers, but it is a stingy mustang dyno, and the whole purpose of a dyno is to see if your changes go the right way, not to get high numbers.

After a couple pulls and adding timing (total of 4*more in the upper end plus a ton down low) Ended up with 490/462 cutout closed 502/475 cutout open. It did loose midrange tq with the cutout open btw.

The owner bout crapped, I was happy to see 500, but honestly still disappointed not thinking of how much lower these read than dynojet. Apparently mine was the first car to break 500 N/A on his dyno. He said I should put it on a dynojet just for *****, that it would easily make 560. So all in all not to bad for kinda budget upper end stuff.

At any rate we added some timing and gained 40rwhp. Not too shabby and there is probably some more in it, but it is very safe with zero KR. The car is an animal on the street. Probably makes 40 horse more than my 402 did, but the torque is insane. It just blows the tires off clear through 3rd gear.

I did get a chance to take it to the strip quick before they shut down for the year. Havent raced much in the past 2 years so I was a bit rusty. Kept blowing my shifts. Normally I cut pretty consistant 1.5xx 60' and the best I got out of 3 passes was a 1.62. On that pass though I mess up shifting and coasted. Best trap of the day was 126 and that was granny shifting to not screw up again but the et was only 11.4 as I adjusted shocks the wrong way and had a sideways 1.9 60'.

Car is full weight, plus cage, a/c ect.. last time i weighed it was 3575 in race trim without me and im 225. I just have KYB adjustable shocks, put a drag bar on, remove front sway, slicks and skinnies for the track. Not exactly ideal for the track, but that was not my goal with the car.

I tried to get the best of both worlds only to realize that it will never run its full potential at the track, and thats ok with me. I know it will go 10.8's next year on motor and that to me is pretty good. Then I can turn the spray back on

 

Nice! These cars can be a blast. I have a 427, 6 spd but tfs 235s. If you keep missing shifts I wonder if it's the clutch or clutch adjustment. A long time ago I had a cartek clutch and any time I had a decent launch, I couldn't shift into 4th. I switched to a spec 3+ and never had any more problems. Looks like you have the launch down. I had one stellar run where I had a 1.59 sixty foot but most are in the 1.8-1.9 range. I wish I could do as well as you. If the DA is decent, I would think you could do better than 10.8 on a good run.

 

Thanks,
It was not the clutch causing my poor shifting, I have a new monster stage 5. (did have spec 3+ before) and tick master. What I was doing was not putting my elbow up on the 3/4 shift and pulling back to 2nd, ouch. Happened twice. The first time i did get the clutch out in second, the next time I caught it before I let back out.

I think with a good hook that I dont have to shift early out of 1st and powershifting it may trap close to 130 n/a.

 

126 @ 3800 lbs is no joke. My friends 403 @ 3700 does around 128.

 

Nice set-up and sounds very streetable. The intake may be a restriction on the larger displacement, so down the road you may want to look at that.

 

Nice numbers Len!

Its probably 530-540 on a DJ248...

 

I thought that the intake may be a bit small, but from what i have heard the FAST doesnt gain much on the ls3 style head set up, plus even on my 402 I had a hard time shelling out the $$ for a piece of plastic that really didnt fit near as good as the factory part. Maybe someday I will put a set of ls7 heads on it with a fast and see what it does. For now I am more than happy with it.

 

Thanks Allan
Whatever it makes on a dynojet, the torque is fun as hell. It was amazing how much it picked up from just adding a bit of timing and imho that is what a dyno is for. The track is where it is at.

 

Must be fun. Your AWMD guy is correct on the readings. I dynoed my old 383 on one and it made 460rw. Took it to a DJ and it went 496rw. Why did you go with such low compression? With that cam you could have gone with 12.0:1. That is why it liked the timing. Not enough DCR. The stock intake is def holding you back also. You are making great numbers already, a couple tweeks and you will well surpass your goals. The LS3 intake is not all that great, there are significant gains to be had on the the stock one with some porting. So a FAST 102 and 100mm TB would show a nice gain. I didn't see what MAF you are running. I know my 85mm was done at 550rw. Since you tune a nice SD tune might help.