Finally: The LSX 427" Lives!
I'm thinking I need to ditch the lid and try to come up with something better. Not sure what I want to try at this point.
I'm thinking I need to ditch the lid and try to come up with something better. Not sure what I want to try at this point.
I feel your pain on the gear debate. My 3.91s limit me a lot on the big end, but they wake the whole car up on motor. Will see if a taller tire can help me when the bottle goes on.
Bridge City is WAAAAAY east, almost on the LA border. Do you ever venture west for anything? Austin, SA, etc?
Would love to line our cars up. You have a solid setup and more cubes than me, but my race weight is a good 300# less than your f-bod.
Would be fun to get some vids! A cammed Camaro is what got me hooked on LS power way back 14 yrs ago, so any clean, N/A Camaro is always dear to me.
You can send me a PM if you wanna chat. I will be in college station the weekend of 4/24-4/26 doing a road race event.
Congrats on the build, and thanks for posting up the two graphs of the Holley High Ram! I have always wanted more top end out of my motor for years now.
I have ridden in a 13.5:1 CR E85 408ci motor that had the HHR intake and revved out to 8500rpm (absurd and addictive). Car was a built M6 and did not feel punchy like our Fast 102 cars though! He was also in a heavy C5 with iron everywhere and a tall 28" tire out back with stock gears in the diff. Car did almost 70mph in 1st.
Hit 140 on motor in a hurry. 
Keep us posted on the car!
-Michael in Austin, Tejas
I appreciate the positive comments. So far I am satisfied with the results of the build, as always I wish it would have made a bit more power. I probably could have made a little more with a LS7 based head, but I already had the rest of the LS3 top end from the previous setup.
The camshaft was actually spec'd by the guys at LME. Since we worked together selecting all of the engine components, I just let them spec the cam as well. Is there more power to be had with a different cam profile? Would have liked to jump on the low lash solid roller wagon, but the valve cover access on the 4th Gen F-bodies absolutely (SUCKS) and is a pain in the *** to take off and adjust valves.
Here is the graph from my chassis dyno session with Pat G. tuning the LSX 427" in my 98 Camaro SS. The car is a full weight pretty well optioned out SS with a 4L85E tranny/ FTI 9.5" Billet Triple Disc conv/ Moser 12 Bolt 3:73 rear, full BMR & Spohn suspension. Race weight is a hefty 3875-3900 lbs depending on how much fuel is in it.
We left some power on the table by keeping the tune a little on the safe side. The tune is a SD tune, we had the power up in the mid 540s and torque close to 530. But, in the name of safety Pat G. and I both agreed to keep it safe ( considering the 12.1 compression on 93 octane pump gas ) and backed the timing down from 28 to a safer 26 degs to better cope with the inconsistent 93 octane pump gas and with the coming hot summer temps. We also left the AFR a little on the fat side as well around 12.4 in the name of safety also. I would rather sacrifice a few ponies rather than deal with the ugly side of the what could happen.
I'm 12:1 on my motor and it has only ever pinged in the winter (massive blasts of lean air coming through my OTR intake in the 40* nights this past winter). I run 26* timing. I throw in a bottle of Lucas octane booster for track events like the HPDE I'm doing this month. Always er on the side of caution with your 5-figure engine builds.

I set mine up with a tight quench (.035") and had Brian Tooley polish out the potential hot spots on the chamber edges to stave off detonation. We've had less KR with this setup than we ever had on my old PRC-headed budget top-end from years back (ported LS6 799 castings).
You have good heads, a solid intake, and healthy compression on this motor. Check, check, check. I wouldn't worry about the cam until you've got the rest of the car truly where you want it. The iron block hurts a good 85# but you can run a tubular K, A-arms, and coilovers up front to drop that amount back out of the car.
Need to get the car to RPR in Baytown soon as you get a cool evening to see how the new setup does. Dyno numbers are nice but they've never won a single race. By that I mean your motor setup may be spot-on right now. Won't know until you make a few passes. I'd guess your NA setup easily meets or beats your old nitrous pass ET and trap.
Keep us posted!

I did swap to the BMR tubular K-member & lower control arms to help offset some of the added weight of the LSX block. I also went larger with the exhaust, so that probably added a little more weight back in.
I have made a couple of passes two weekends ago, found I have a couple of issues to address. I need to play with the launch rpms to see where the converter likes to be, either flashed from dead idle, or footbraked up a good bit? I also need to adjust the shift points on the tranny as 2-3 shift is happening too soon. The 3:73s are not letting me cross up high enough throught the traps with the 28" tall tires.
Best pass on the 1st outing was okay considering the circumstances & the hefty raceweight (3900 lbs ). Ran a 10.78 @ 127 mph on a dismal 1.62 60 ft, 1/8th mile times were 6.90 @ 101.70 mph. I drive to the track and back home. My local track is about 37 miles away.
I do make it to RPR several times a year, and always seem to run a tenth or 2 quicker there. Track prep is better there if you get in early before all of the ricers & truckers!

I think when all works out the car should have some 10.30s-40s in it on motor ( may end up going back to the 4:10s ) and some easy mid 9s on the juice ( should mph pretty good with the 3:73s ). Its a shame the car isn't a light weight, would be nice to be around 3200-3300 lbs . But, I told myself I'm not gonna strip this car out just to run the #. It is what it is, a fairly quick heavy "PIG "
Last edited by floman; Apr 13, 2015 at 05:35 PM.

I have made a couple of passes two weekends ago, found I have a couple of issues to address. I need to play with the launch rpms to see where the converter likes to be, either flashed from dead idle, or footbraked up a good bit? I also need to adjust the shift points on the tranny as 2-3 shift is happening too soon. The 3:73s are not letting me cross up high enough throught the traps with the 28" tall tires.
Best pass on the 1st outing was okay considering the circumstances & the hefty raceweight (3900 lbs ). Ran a 10.78 @ 127 mph on a dismal 1.62 60 ft, 1/8th mile times were 6.90 @ 101.70 mph. I drive to the track and back home. My local track is about 37 miles away.
I do make it to RPR several times a year, and always seem to run a tenth or 2 quicker there. Track prep is better there if you get in early before all of the ricers & truckers!

I think when all works out the car should have some 10.30s-40s in it on motor and some easy mid 9s on the juice. Its a shame the car isn't a light weight, would be nice to be around 3200-3300 lbs . But, I told myself I'm not gonna strip this car out just to run the #. It is what it is, a fairly quick heavy "PIG "

So, you kinda have a good idea of what it takes to "get her up and rollin"One thing I like about my car is, it looks pretty much like a stock F-body with the exception of the Billet Specialties "Streetlites". I run a full exhaust all the way out the back, although it is 4" pipe
I do street drive my car on 93 octane pump gas.Do you have any track times for your car?
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
So, you kinda have a good idea of what it takes to "get her up and rollin"One thing I like about my car is, it looks pretty much like a stock F-body with the exception of the Billet Specialties "Streetlites". I run a full exhaust all the way out the back, although it is 4" pipe
I do street drive my car on 93 octane pump gas.Do you have any track times for your car?
eventually i'll do the 8.8 and take her to the track, but before then i need to finish up other projects
YouTube
I will start out with a 150 shot, which is what I used on my previous engine. I might go as high as 200-225hp shot.
No, the cam was not spec'd as a nitrous cam per say. But, I did let them know that I would be spraying around a 150-200 shot. I think maybe the idea was to make it run well on motor, and a smallish 150 shot or so is not so critical that the cam needs to be spec'd just for the nitrous. I kinda think maybe he held back on the intake duration intentionally to keep the power peak in line with the rpm range of the FAST intake, and the exhaust side is needed for the cubic inches and 12.1 compression to be sure it exhales properly. I'm no cam guru, but what I had in mind was only off by about 2 degs duration on both int & exh sides from where he was and I was thinking a 113 LSA, where he decided on a 112+4. Who knows if its the best it could be or not, but we will see how the real test at the track turns out.

Here is one engine dyno graph showing the comparison of the Holley High Ram vs the unported FAST 102mm intake both with 90mm DBW throttle body. The Holley intake is the Red lines, and the FAST 102mm is the Black. As you can see, the FAST 102mm kicked *** everywhere except on the very topend.

A J-1394 correction on the engine dyno would be a more realistic number.
The engine shop may be able to apply that factor to your engine data and give you the 1394 result.
I refer to J-607 as the "bar stool" number.

A J-1394 correction on the engine dyno would be a more realistic number.
The engine shop may be able to apply that factor to your engine data and give you the 1394 result.
I refer to J-607 as the "bar stool" number.

I'm always open to different suggestions seeing as this is a totally new combination. Would love to see the car do some high 1.4s-low1.5 60 ft times on motor.










