Boring Everyday 500 HP LS1
SO the plan is after the manifold test on the same dyno for an apples to apples evaluation of that mod I'm pretty sure Darth plans to run the car back on the original dyno he rolled 496 on previously (likely with the new MSD installed knowing we ended up at "XXX" on the new dyno he has rolled on recently).
That will be the final confirmation of just how much he gained (compared to months back) from the recent round of mods (factoring in drivetrain losses from the gears and rear)
Should be cool....both the manifold test and the trip back to the original dyno!

-Tony

www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
What size exhaust set-up are you running? My combo will also be in a f-body (albeit 3rd gen) but like 4th gens, I will be limited in exhaust options aft of the headers.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
What size exhaust set-up are you running? My combo will also be in a f-body (albeit 3rd gen) but like 4th gens, I will be limited in exhaust options aft of the headers.
So, I get home and I notice the heat trace coming off the cats from under the car, so I lay down to look, and it's a furnace under there!. So, I let it cool down, dropped the Y-pipe, threw 18" 3" pipe extensions on, begged the dyno operator to just let me make one pull and see if it was the cats, and I ripped 470.
Obviously, can't drive it like that everyday, so I ordered kooks true duals - uncatted to avoid future bad luck - 3" with the X-pipe and all the way back. That exhaust flowed nicely, and combined with the light clutch, picked up 26 over the open headers - again, no tuning, just baselined to see if it changed any.
In retrospect, even if the cats weren't plugged, I couldn't have had a worse Y-pipe. The two sides met at a 120 degree angle dead-head, and then the I pipe to the cate back was the other 120 degrees. Like a crows foot. My first run on this car was a budget build, and I paid for it in the end. Oddly enough, it was cheaper to just buy the good stuff, because then I only build it once - and you're never happy with yourself when you know you left something on the table.
So, I get home and I notice the heat trace coming off the cats from under the car, so I lay down to look, and it's a furnace under there!. So, I let it cool down, dropped the Y-pipe, threw 18" 3" pipe extensions on, begged the dyno operator to just let me make one pull and see if it was the cats, and I ripped 470.
Obviously, can't drive it like that everyday, so I ordered kooks true duals - uncatted to avoid future bad luck - 3" with the X-pipe and all the way back. That exhaust flowed nicely, and combined with the light clutch, picked up 26 over the open headers - again, no tuning, just baselined to see if it changed any.
In retrospect, even if the cats weren't plugged, I couldn't have had a worse Y-pipe. The two sides met at a 120 degree angle dead-head, and then the I pipe to the cate back was the other 120 degrees. Like a crows foot. My first run on this car was a budget build, and I paid for it in the end. Oddly enough, it was cheaper to just buy the good stuff, because then I only build it once - and you're never happy with yourself when you know you left something on the table.
Good info here and highlights my dilemma. I was looking at the new Hooker Dual systems for these cars but at 2.5", it will bottleneck the exhaust. One of their engineers posted on a 3rd gen board about not going over 400rwhp with that setup. A single 4" is another option, which is available for these cars. When you had your cat restrictions what size were they? I would really prefer to run dual 3" high flow cats if possible. I am all but accepting that I will be making a custom y-pipe to avoid the pitfalls you encountered.
Dual 2.5" is 9.82"
4" is 12.57"
Dual 3" is 14.14"
There are other considerations in exhaust system flow vs power besides cross sectional area (dual vs single, merge/crossovers, tubing length, frequency, etc) but IMHO it's probably at the top of that list.
None of this really matters as much as the fact that those cats were clogged/f&cked.
For reference, I made 465 to the tire with a cammed LS3 through the SLP dual dual, with the single 3" pipe being the bottle neck. Given the HP guys are making with factory 2.5" duals like the V1 CTS-V and C5 and C6 vettes (among others), you'd have to be making an absolute **** ton of power for dual 2.5" to be a meaningful restriction. I would not listen to that particular hooker/engineer very seriously.
Last edited by jmilz28; Dec 20, 2016 at 04:31 PM.




X pipe is good to ~500 RWHP, as you approach 550 RWHP time
For a True dual 3" system. The difference between 2 1/2" - 3"
As one approaches 600 RWHP can be 30+ RWHP.
Those are nitrous/low boost turbo numbers so damn that's impressive naturally aspirated. I wonder if the "2.5 inch true dual x-piped good to 500 rwhp," statement is with cutouts. Otherwise if there is no loss in power with dual 2.5" exhaust until after 500 rwhp , then that is decent as I was always told 2.5 inch dual up to 500 hp at the motor. All relative to the driveline loss of the test vehicle I suppose.
Calculations I have done in past showed dual 3" is good to 800hp or so. Dual 2.5" like factory on Holdens and G5 camaro has a little crimp in it to cramp a few HP lower than the vette but is fine for most mild boltons.
Anyone on an LS3 or similar output especially if they want to build in future with heads or n20/FI should be on dual 3".
So, I didn't make much of a technical decision so much as a gut check decision. Because the blackheart was cheaper than kooks, but kooks was cheaper than buying both.
So, I didn't make much of a technical decision so much as a gut check decision. Because the blackheart was cheaper than kooks, but kooks was cheaper than buying both.








