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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 10:33 PM
  #21  
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Your losing 18hp and tq to the rear. There is a thread in here documenting the loss from a 10 bolt 3:42's to a moser 9" 4:11's. So thats 27hp right there with his -9 dyno.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 11:47 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Ego Killer
"automatics and dynos go together like turds and hotdog buns" LOL
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 06:02 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by e-love84
I dunno, dropping a pretty penny on a motor and I'd like to take the needed precautions before it's making dyno pulls. I'm all for getting a base tune but you don't need to make pulls for that.
If you baby it for the first 50 miles your rings aren't going to seat and you'll never make the power a car properly broken in will. Make sure you've got a good base A/F and tune.. then..

On a Dyno:
Warm the engine up completely !!

Then, using 4th gear:

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from 40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm. Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from 40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm. Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from 30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm. Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Then you're ready to do whatever you want with it.












Now on topic:

a 4000 stall convertor, a T400 trans, and a 9"... yeah, you're losing a lot through the drivetrain on a dyno, but I don't think the numbers are terrible. I recall one of the sponsors saying in here that they had a car with a big stall, big rear, and T400 dyno in the 400's and run 9's.
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 09:26 PM
  #24  
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just for an update I took it to the track and it went 6.9x@98 with 1.47 sixty in the 1/8..3700 tank
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 10:31 PM
  #25  
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man that's a solid mid/high 10 second pass at 125-127 MPH... See... makes the hurtful dyno numbers seem like a bogus bad dream

fwiw, the car in the pic that I posted that was similar; ran like a 7.0 1/8th on stock wheels right after dynoing
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 10:53 PM
  #26  
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398 rwhp through a 9" w/ 4.11's th350 w/ 4800 stall, and a 383 carb'd motor and 28 x 11.5 et streets. 11.16 @ 122 1.54 60ft just shows you how much power is being ate up through the stall and rear.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 03:01 PM
  #27  
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Dyno numbers...who cares?

I've heard of T56 -> TH400 swaps costing 90 rwhp. And the car ran faster at the track.

With a stalled TH350 AND a Moser 9-inch with 4.10's (a very parasitic gear), I wouldn't surprised if it was costing you 50-100 rwhp. Switch to a 4L60E and a 10-bolt with 2.73's and I bet you'd gain ridiculous amounts of power on the dyno - and suck at the track.

You have a hugely parasitic setup. Don't worry about it. Your motor's making good power.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 03:11 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
Dyno numbers...who cares?

I've heard of T56 -> TH400 swaps costing 90 rwhp. And the car ran faster at the track.

With a stalled TH350 AND a Moser 9-inch with 4.10's (a very parasitic gear), I wouldn't surprised if it was costing you 50-100 rwhp. Switch to a 4L60E and a 10-bolt with 2.73's and I bet you'd gain ridiculous amounts of power on the dyno - and suck at the track.

You have a hugely parasitic setup. Don't worry about it. Your motor's making good power.
My car has a 4L60E trans & I make 415RWHP & 360 RWTQ & run 7.0s @ 96 in the 1/8,

A4 eats RWHP too. Pretty much any Big Stalled car is going to make crap Dyno numbers it seems.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 07:01 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SEB
My car has a 4L60E trans & I make 415RWHP & 360 RWTQ & run 7.0s @ 96 in the 1/8,

A4 eats RWHP too. Pretty much any Big Stalled car is going to make crap Dyno numbers it seems.
Haha, don't compare a 4L60E to a TH350/TH400/4L80E. The 4L60E is a very efficient automatic by comparison. The others will suck rwhp up like a sponge by comparison.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 10:51 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by e-love84
Why risk the motor and dyno the car with that few miles on it?
I use the chassis dyno to break in new engines. What better way to control conditions and monitor everything? I keep a close eye on coolant and oil temps, oil pressure, etc. Start off with a light load for a few miles, then start commanding more load from the power absorber and keep varying the RPM. After about 50 miles of this, oil temps start dropping and the engine gets happier.

Of course this is with a load dyno, won't work for guys with intertia only.

Scott
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Ego Killer
just for an update I took it to the track and it went 6.9x@98 with 1.47 sixty in the 1/8..3700 tank

Was that at Brainerd?
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Old Dec 13, 2007 | 10:40 AM
  #32  
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I let my motor heat cycle 2 times, change the oil and throw it on the dyno. Car has made 503rwhp, but at the time of the 9.82 pass was down to 481rwhp after 2 years of 7500rpm.
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 10:10 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 1ORANGEWS6
Was that at Brainerd?


No, it was in Huntsville, AL. how is the track in Brainerd? I have been meaning to get down their.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 02:22 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by e-love84
Why risk the motor and dyno the car with that few miles on it?
Running a motor with an incorrect calibration is exponentially harmful. Even for a short period.

We run our motors in properly on the dyno.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 03:09 PM
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Definitely helps prove that dyno numbers for autos don't mean as much.
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Ego Killer
No, it was in Huntsville, AL. how is the track in Brainerd? I have been meaning to get down their.
It's hit or miss so you never know what you're going to get. It's close to the house so I just do a little T&T there and then go to Steele.
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