Underdrive Pulley Gains (Realworld)
#24
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I made 410 rwhp with tsp heads and cam combo, a budget one at that, no fast 90, no pulley, through full exhaust and a big stall. Drives nice and ran 10.84 my first time at a track with a little nitrous, it is also 3600 lbs.
#25
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Installed the pulley tonight. Car Feels much quicker at least. Need to hit the dyno on the next "Dyno Day" with the local club.
My heads are only ported stock 241 castings, with a tsp cam. I got the H&C package for $1k. My fast/90 and PTM tb for $1K and the rest of the items needed (LS6 ported and shimed oil pump, push rods, LS2 timeing chain, head bolts and head gaskets for $400) Whole package I was into it for $2400.
Car Pulls like a mother with my 4.30 gears, and the street manners are like stock. Guess we'll see what I do at the track but remember I also live in Denver, I race and dyno at 5800 ft above sea level.
My heads are only ported stock 241 castings, with a tsp cam. I got the H&C package for $1k. My fast/90 and PTM tb for $1K and the rest of the items needed (LS6 ported and shimed oil pump, push rods, LS2 timeing chain, head bolts and head gaskets for $400) Whole package I was into it for $2400.
Car Pulls like a mother with my 4.30 gears, and the street manners are like stock. Guess we'll see what I do at the track but remember I also live in Denver, I race and dyno at 5800 ft above sea level.
Last edited by Jays00ss; 04-11-2008 at 11:24 PM.
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Going to the track on saturday to see how she does can't wait to try out all my new mods. Ran a best of 14.03 (In Denver at Bandimere 5800 ft above sea level) last year with street tires, 3.90 gears in my 10 bolt, lid and headers.
Did all the mods in my signature over the winter. I am now running 4.30's in my 9". Can't wait to finally run some slicks and hopefully dip down into the 12's!!!
Did all the mods in my signature over the winter. I am now running 4.30's in my 9". Can't wait to finally run some slicks and hopefully dip down into the 12's!!!
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Going to the track on saturday to see how she does can't wait to try out all my new mods. Ran a best of 14.03 (In Denver at Bandimere 5800 ft above sea level) last year with street tires, 3.90 gears in my 10 bolt, lid and headers.
Did all the mods in my signature over the winter. I am now running 4.30's in my 9". Can't wait to finally run some slicks and hopefully dip down into the 12's!!!
Did all the mods in my signature over the winter. I am now running 4.30's in my 9". Can't wait to finally run some slicks and hopefully dip down into the 12's!!!
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#29
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Hey now!!! You see, this is the type of feedback i was looking for. So there is a chance of burnin out the alternator? That would be unfortunate. Cant afford doing **** like that.
#30
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I have installed probably 100+ pulley's since 2000 on LS1's and only ONCE burned out an Alt. And thats on a 110K+ mile car which probably had the stock/weak one already in it.
Do not let misinformation scare you. It's a 1 in 10 chance you'll burn out an alternator and if you do, it's probably because it was about to die anyway.
Do not let misinformation scare you. It's a 1 in 10 chance you'll burn out an alternator and if you do, it's probably because it was about to die anyway.
#31
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I have installed probably 100+ pulley's since 2000 on LS1's and only ONCE burned out an Alt. And thats on a 110K+ mile car which probably had the stock/weak one already in it.
Do not let misinformation scare you. It's a 1 in 10 chance you'll burn out an alternator and if you do, it's probably because it was about to die anyway.
Do not let misinformation scare you. It's a 1 in 10 chance you'll burn out an alternator and if you do, it's probably because it was about to die anyway.
#32
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If you sit and let your car idle for long periods of time, then bump up your idle rpm to 875-900 rpms and keep the heater blower / ac turned down while idling. But once you hit around 1000 rpm, the alternator is cycling because once you hit ~14 volts it sends a signal to the alternator to turn off.
If anything, an underdrive pulley is actually better for your accesories especially if you spend a good amount of time above 2500 rpm. High rpm tends to kill your accescories as opposed to lower rpms.
If anything, an underdrive pulley is actually better for your accesories especially if you spend a good amount of time above 2500 rpm. High rpm tends to kill your accescories as opposed to lower rpms.
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I put on both pulleys(crank-alt) at the same time, havent dynoed it since but the SOTP was telling it worked. My car is around 137,000-rebuilt at 113,000. BUT all accy are still factory. I am starting to have some charging issues, but that is due to the old Alt. and cheap factory Battery wires. And I also have an aftermarket Amp and 10 added,Racetronics Fuel pump with wire mod, but said issues are at idle.
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I put on both pulleys(crank-alt) at the same time, havent dynoed it since but the SOTP was telling it worked. My car is around 137,000-rebuilt at 113,000. BUT all accy are still factory. I am starting to have some charging issues, but that is due to the old Alt. and cheap factory Battery wires. And I also have an aftermarket Amp and 10 added,Racetronics Fuel pump with wire mod, but said issues are at idle.
this is finally what i've been looking to hear. "accesories are still factory"
which ones did you go with. need to pick them up before i get back from iraq next week, then i'll have full bolt ones(guess i missed one in my signature block lol)
thanks for the info
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ws6project.com had the ASP for $190 something but they didnt have the belts SO i went through thunder racing. the pulley was $215 i think but they also had the 2 belts so i only paid 1 shipping charge vs 2 plus i got $10 off with thunder.
including shipping everything came to $278 i think