Ebay header Dyno Results!!!!!!
results from last year https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/740094-2000-trans-am-bolt-ons.html
sae was 1.00 correction , std was 1.02 correction
sae was 1.00 correction , std was 1.02 correction
Hey everyone, theres been a HUGE road block, not sure if any know but 2 recent deaths of fellow officers have caused my plans to change drastically. So until the situation get straitened out im sorry for the delay.
understandable im just bustin ***** with the 
lol. deffinately keep me updated though im thinking about picken up the stainless ebay headers after i pay off my card and im tired of seeing the people on here that give you the typical because it's cheap you get what you pay for and from what i've heard so far install is pretty good but no one else has posted numbers from the ebay header.
lol. deffinately keep me updated though im thinking about picken up the stainless ebay headers after i pay off my card and im tired of seeing the people on here that give you the typical because it's cheap you get what you pay for and from what i've heard so far install is pretty good but no one else has posted numbers from the ebay header. now i've heard flanges are fine and the only mod needed is to notch the k member and you dont have to move the collector. there's another thread on here (forget who by) showing him installing ebay stainless headers with pics of each step and all he did was notch the k member a small amount.
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Verdad Gallardo I'll leave it open until you get your #'s. PM me when you get a dyno graph and I'll edit your title to reflect the #'s are posted and I would suggest putting it on your first post in the thread so everybody doesn't have to sift through the whole post to find them.
I was merely exposing this thread as being pure weak sauce
I was merely exposing this thread as being pure weak sauce
They are essentially the pacesetter design. I slightly ground my kmember on the drivers side, use a dremil on a couple of bolt holes on the drivers side. With provided ypipe it fit really snug and did not bump at all. So if you don't need cats your ok. However, I did and ended up modifying the ypipe and drivers side header so it would provide clearance.
So in short: You will get the same gains as someone running pacesetter long tubes.
So in short: You will get the same gains as someone running pacesetter long tubes.
i think foreverzero got a generous dyno. the car trapped...111 i think? if so i guess my lid/flowmaster ONLY 99 ta has 340 whp because it trapped 109.
the headers are proven to give the same gains as any other long tube. some are more difficult to install than others, but i think saving the money is worth the extra hour it takes to remove motor mount bolts and jack the engine up, should it get THAT involved.
the headers are proven to give the same gains as any other long tube. some are more difficult to install than others, but i think saving the money is worth the extra hour it takes to remove motor mount bolts and jack the engine up, should it get THAT involved.
wong They are essentially the pacesetter design. I slightly ground my kmember on the drivers side, use a dremil on a couple of bolt holes on the drivers side. With provided ypipe it fit really snug and did not bump at all. So if you don't need cats your ok. However, I did and ended up modifying the ypipe and drivers side header so it would provide clearance.
So in short: You will get the same gains as someone running pacesetter long tubes.
So in short: You will get the same gains as someone running pacesetter long tubes.
odds are your stick car will trap less with a hook. not trying to knock the car or anything, just saying...dynos are tuning tools, nothing more. track times given da, etc are what matter.
ok i have mac mids on my ride i put down 336 wheel.. do u guys think if i went to these ebay headers it would hurt me? iam either gonna do a cam or turbo.... but cam is prolly gonna happen first... what would u do? not ot thread hijack but since we are in a waiting pattern
