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im not also convinced on the pump, much rather have the belt driven system also i believe a guy posted info on the weight and it was only like an 8 pound difference...not enough to approve the hunderds of dollars for one
i want to run the iron block because down the road i will probly spray or boost it as far as rods right now im looking at scat rods and maybe mahle pistons or diamond. ill be sticking with the ls6 intake and p&p tb, with a set of p&p 853 heads and a custom bump stick by patrick g. ignition will probly be truck coils and my 10.4 wires, im keeping the stock cooling system for now unless i remove the ac and go with a truck manifold turbo kit.
From: Somewhere Between Mild Insanity and Complete Psychosis
Originally Posted by Eurospec2
i would not run fast 90/90, thats 1200 bucks that can be much better spent elsewhere for more power (unless not on a budget)
Hence the last bit part. It could be better spent (power wise) on n20, but I don't know if Rob wants to spray or stay N/A. But it is definately at the end of the line budget wise, other things are more important.
Originally Posted by Eurospec2
Balancer, meh, i decided against it, i like my charging system and water pump to much to do this for such a small gain, now i would get an SFI approved dampner that is not underdrive for track use
The ATI is just that. The one like I have is not underdrive, it is stock diameter. The ATI race balancers are $420 and the best money can buy. Stock balancers have come apart, causing damage to other parts. I'm not sure about f-bodies, but in c5 the steering rack is the victim, or in a blown application like mine the head unit bracket would be the victim. Pinning the crank does not help, because the stock balancer can actually come apart. I got a good look at a c5 supercharger bracket that was damaged because the stock balancer (pinned) simply came apart. I decided to spend the $$$ for piece of mind.
From: Somewhere Between Mild Insanity and Complete Psychosis
Originally Posted by bluenyghthawk
i want to run the iron block because down the road i will probly spray or boost it.
I would recommend running pistons with a slight dish. This way you could initially run smaller combustion chamber heads and still have a good compression ratio for n/a. Then later if you go FI, the heads can be swapped for something with 72cc-76cc combustion chambers. Those combined with the slightly dished pistons will make for a great boost compression ratio. This way you don't have to change any internals to change between n/a and FI.
From: Somewhere Between Mild Insanity and Complete Psychosis
Rob,
I just remembered I still have an F-Body ATI damper that I never returned to EPP. They initially sent me the wrong one and I had to re-order a y-body damper. If you're interested in it for your build, I'll let you have it dirt cheap. It's of course brand new, and was only removed from the box and slid onto my crank, at which point it didn't fit properly and we knew it must be the wrong part. It's a stock diameter 6-rib balancer.
to everyone who didnt go to sonics tonite, i would like to say 'screw you', i was stuck up there with a bunch of rice, 1st time i get to come up there and no one is there, bastards!
i skipped the whole sonic thing went straight to 17 last night went 1-2 got "390"hp vorteced mustang by a half a car, ran a 415hp goat got beat by 1 1'2 cars and ran a 06 z51 vette and he got me by a 1 1/2 so the t/a did alright for the night. but we got to watch a bunch of really good races so it was fun
i went out yesterday and took some pics when the sun was going down of the car right after i washed it.....went out there to cecil on the other side of normandy where its just roads for miles......nice pavement, practiced on my launchs with crappy tires
man it was so hot today, those mich light drafts sure were smooth going down, good choice of eats Jacob, food was great, beer was great, and very affordable too!
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