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What should i do? Pulled the ARP Head Stud out of block.

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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 11:04 AM
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Default What should i do? Pulled the ARP Head Stud out of block.

Like the title says. I was installing my heads today and the 7/16" ARP stud has mannaged to pull itsself out of the block. It's the one tword the back in the center of the head. What options do i have? Does someone make a kit to fix this?
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 11:23 AM
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A helicoil may not be strong enough for a head bolt...look into a thread-cert. It is a bigger pice than a helicoil and both would need to be properly drilled & tapped.
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 11:40 AM
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*UPDATE* Just tightned the other head and the EXACT same stud pulled out on the other side!!!! WTF? S@#t!!!!
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by TLewis4095
A helicoil may not be strong enough for a head bolt...look into a thread-cert. It is a bigger pice than a helicoil and both would need to be properly drilled & tapped.
I did a search and there are so many options out there. You have a direct link or something to help me out?
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 12:06 PM
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can you post pic?

also so you put stud in. then head on. and tighten nut and out comes stud?

WTF. what block you have?
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TLewis4095
A helicoil may not be strong enough for a head bolt...look into a thread-cert. It is a bigger pice than a helicoil and both would need to be properly drilled & tapped.
Get the theread certs they are good and they should be avalable . I just did it to a 4.6 northstar motor PIA but you have to do it to all of the holes cause they pull the treads out . But anyway in my quest to find the tool to do it there is a tool kit for the LSX motors also that would be your best option
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 02:15 PM
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Ok, i just went to the local parts house and got a helicoil kit for a 7/16-14 thread. I took the head back off and tried to put the tap that came with the kit down the hole with the threads in the block and the tap is too big............. the original threads were recessed down in the hole. WTF?
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
can you post pic?

also so you put stud in. then head on. and tighten nut and out comes stud?

WTF. what block you have?
YES, i have had the studs in for a while now this will be the 2nd time i used the studs. (i melted a head and had it welded up) now trying to put it back togher.

It's a LS1 block
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 03:08 PM
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Look at your tap. It'll have the drill size you need to drill before rethreading.
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mo6893
Look at your tap. It'll have the drill size you need to drill before rethreading.
Yup .

You need to drill it out first . The kit I used came with a guid and a plate drillbit and tap(exteded to reach the bottom of the long hole ) it was $500 I am sure you could do it without the kit but be very careful not to go too far
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 10:25 PM
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I actually did the same thing, had to buy the $500 kit the guy above is talking about. I looked and looked to try and save some money and no one had the right sizing for the ls1 head bolts. The kit is really nice and worked like a charm, never pushed water with 680rwhp and stock 317s. The kit came with a bunch of stuff all for the ls1 head studs. It also has a bunch of extra inserts that I still have with the kit and directions. I would sell it for half price because I don't need it any more. It's really the best option out there and possibly the only option. If your interested in it, I can send you some pics of what it comes with. Just pm me and we can work out a deal.
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rufretic
I actually did the same thing, had to buy the $500 kit the guy above is talking about. I looked and looked to try and save some money and no one had the right sizing for the ls1 head bolts. The kit is really nice and worked like a charm, never pushed water with 680rwhp and stock 317s. The kit came with a bunch of stuff all for the ls1 head studs. It also has a bunch of extra inserts that I still have with the kit and directions. I would sell it for half price because I don't need it any more. It's really the best option out there and possibly the only option. If your interested in it, I can send you some pics of what it comes with. Just pm me and we can work out a deal.
I agree
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 12:14 AM
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What kind of torque are you guys putting on the studs to be pulling them out? Just curious if it is stock torque or a lot more.

Jim
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 12:45 AM
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+2

Glad I have an Iron 6.0 block now! LOL
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by DeltaT
What kind of torque are you guys putting on the studs to be pulling them out? Just curious if it is stock torque or a lot more.

Jim
If I remember right, it was 90ft/lbs with arp studs on a stock aluminum ls1. All of them were fine except the last one I went to torque
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by rufretic
If I remember right, it was 90ft/lbs with arp studs on a stock aluminum ls1. All of them were fine except the last one I went to torque
I think the torque is like 75 or 78ft lbs with moly lube, not 90!
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by HUNTER02SS
I think the torque is like 75 or 78ft lbs with moly lube, not 90!
I didn't use the lube so they need more torque. I was told 95ft/lbs from my speed shop but I thought that was a little too much so I went with 90.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 08:10 AM
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I was only going to 80lbs with the lube and 85lbs with oil as a lube as per the instructions that came with the studs.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 08:16 AM
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The drill bit is a 29/64. It will fit into the hole fine but the TAP is not fitting into the hole like the drill bit is. The threads are recessed in the hole about 3/4" before the threds start. If i tap the hole it will put NEW threads the whole way down as the threads were recessed before. This will also make my water jackets a little thinner.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 08:18 AM
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Will a helicoil hold up to the 85 ft. lbs.???? I have a helicoil kit.
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