Block recommendation for street/track car
So you're saying they definitely would not be good for a daily driven car?
If I were building something to road race I would just build something N/A but you'll never get to your power goals that way obviosly. Not bashing your plans at all just curious, prove me wrong!!
In your opinion, would a kenne bell be more reliable at the track?
How much power can be squeezed out of the ls7 without boost? Could always use some juice for a nice dyno sheet.
Thanks again for your input.
Last edited by gearhead1186; Nov 22, 2008 at 01:58 AM.
In your opinion, would a kenne bell be more reliable at the track?
How much power can be squeezed out of the ls7 without boost? Could always use some juice for a nice dyno sheet.
Thanks again for your input.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=54
This was with the 346 and an D-1SC ProCharger.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=40
After two years of brutal use, we swapped out the 346 for an LS2 we built with a 4.0 stroker crank. We also swapped out the D-1SC for an F-1C ProCharger. Bob
And I went the iron block route. I'm paranoid about sleeves slipping with boost & extended torture. I now have an F1 that should end up making the hp you're looking for. I drag race, road race & drive the car on the street. We'll see how it does this year.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Any take on putting boost on a boost prepped ls2 vs a boost prepped ls7? ls2 has more meat and I can always do a dry sump on it.
It would kill me to put another 80,90 lbs over the front end with an iron block... even tho it would help me sleep at night.
Last edited by gearhead1186; Nov 23, 2008 at 08:36 PM.


