Replacing Head Gaskets this morning. Question though....
That said i would drill the hole like the paperwork says
"Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the bolst in three equal steps to 75ftlbs with ARP MOLY ASSEMBPLY LUBRICANT or torque to 85ft lbs with 30 wt motor oil."
I know you that after you fire up a motor with new head gaskets, you're supposed to let it reach full operating temperature, then let the motor cool completely, then re-torque all the head bolts in order to retain full clamping force. I didn't do this back when I got this motor, and it looks like I'm paying the price for that laziness. Not this time!!! Lol...
Also, just as a note to others. When you retorque the head bolts, don't just go in with the torque setting and try to tighten the bolt right away. Back it off a bit then retorque it.
Now here's something puzzling. My engine builder said he was going to use the FelPro 1074 head gaskets. However, the gasket I pulled off there doesn't look like the 1074's I just bought. Maybe he used an old version of a 1074 but I *think* this gasket has a different number stamped on it. Here they are side by side. I've highlighted the hole I mentioned the 1074 literature mentioning. Notice it's not on the 'old' gasket.
The old gasket, at least on the drivers side, doesn't have an actual 'break' in the gasket material but it looked a bit eroded nearest Cyl#1 where the gasket ring nears the large cavity on in the 10:30 postion.
Look at this one.... and check out the outer shape. Totally different than the Fel-Pro
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...&ProdID=180531
Look at this one.... and check out the outer shape. Totally different than the Fel-Pro
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...&ProdID=180531






