LS turbo on the cheap?
Its possible to do it under 5k. I spent 7k and most of my build is on here in the conversion section, and that included my Gen 3 swap, 4l80 conversion, turbo build, and buying HPTuners. I did have to stick with a cam only 5.3. I have not gotten the chance to hit the track yet as we are still waiting for warmer weather. Based off how it feels compaired to my old 10.70 set up, and playing around a couple times on the street, im guessing its very close to a 10.90-11.20 @ 122-125mph car, and I am only on 6lbs.
I agree that it always costs more than you think....whatever you think you are going to spend, double it. Don't be discouraged though....my beater setup is as follows:
STOCK 5.3 160k miles at time of swap $250
Car intake/ Zo6 cam-springs
NO engine mods, NO bolts, NO different heads
S475 BW turbo in my case, Master Power T70 would be a GREAT budget choice
I pushed mine to 10lbs at first and ran 132 mph in a 3140# car. The ET sucked at 10.9 but that was with a 2.1 60' since the back of the car is all stock, little 235 tires, OPEN rear, mono leafs...NO traction device whatsoever.
I then went up to 14-15lbs of boost...still same setup, still on pump gas...made the 10lbs feel like nothing, whole different beast at 14-15lbs. Im sure it would trap 135-136 like that. In a car that worked even just a little bit (like 1.75 60') that would equate to LOW ten second passes...
My same combo on 12lbs boost would last a long time for little dollars and in a halfass working car would make easy high ten second passes at best. Worst case scenario you break a piston and replace the cheap engine. It took 18lbs on pump gas to hurt my all stock one....NO meth
Have fun!
STOCK 5.3 160k miles at time of swap $250
Car intake/ Zo6 cam-springs
NO engine mods, NO bolts, NO different heads
S475 BW turbo in my case, Master Power T70 would be a GREAT budget choice
I pushed mine to 10lbs at first and ran 132 mph in a 3140# car. The ET sucked at 10.9 but that was with a 2.1 60' since the back of the car is all stock, little 235 tires, OPEN rear, mono leafs...NO traction device whatsoever.
I then went up to 14-15lbs of boost...still same setup, still on pump gas...made the 10lbs feel like nothing, whole different beast at 14-15lbs. Im sure it would trap 135-136 like that. In a car that worked even just a little bit (like 1.75 60') that would equate to LOW ten second passes...
My same combo on 12lbs boost would last a long time for little dollars and in a halfass working car would make easy high ten second passes at best. Worst case scenario you break a piston and replace the cheap engine. It took 18lbs on pump gas to hurt my all stock one....NO meth
Have fun!
also wanted to add that I drove my car from May-October last year, including 1 month of driving AFTER the piston had lost some of the ring land. I drove it on a few trips over an hour each way, including one the next day after I had it at the track. It NEVER made a trip without seeing 10-14lbs of boost. I beat it day in and day out and drove it to work daily.
New Era Performance is a sponsor on here he will match the ebay prices. He did for me.
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/
I wasn't saying it can't be done. I have known a few people to put boost to stock engines. One was a turbo'd Silverado SS (8psi). The other was a Maggied GTO (12psi). Both ran for about a year but had piston failures. You can make great power out of stock engines. But the point I was trying to get across was that cheap and longevity do not go hand in hand. I would rather build it right the first time than rebuild it multiple times because I was too impatient to save up for a proper setup.
I got about 10k invested in my truck. (including the price of the truck)
truck $3500
5.3 Engine with all accessories $800
LS6 cam and springs
Turbo $600
304 Stainless pipes, bends for custom turbo kit and misc flanges $600
MegaSquirt $500
wideband $300
MSD box $300
Meth injection $300
TH400 with Tbrake $700
Fuel system (dual pumps, 72 lb injectors, rails, regulator) $800
FMIC $200
Gauges $200
Driveshaft $250
Drag radials and cheapo Rims $500
Posi rear axle and girdled cover $400
just to give you an idea. That doesnt include my nitrous kit, BOV or wastegate that I already had from another project. Plus dont forget about all the nickel and dime stuff that adds up WAYYYY to fast
truck $3500
5.3 Engine with all accessories $800
LS6 cam and springs
Turbo $600
304 Stainless pipes, bends for custom turbo kit and misc flanges $600
MegaSquirt $500
wideband $300
MSD box $300
Meth injection $300
TH400 with Tbrake $700
Fuel system (dual pumps, 72 lb injectors, rails, regulator) $800
FMIC $200
Gauges $200
Driveshaft $250
Drag radials and cheapo Rims $500
Posi rear axle and girdled cover $400
just to give you an idea. That doesnt include my nitrous kit, BOV or wastegate that I already had from another project. Plus dont forget about all the nickel and dime stuff that adds up WAYYYY to fast
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My 42# injectors were maxed out at 10psi of boost. Base fuel pressure was 45psi and AFR's were around 11.5:1 ...42# ones are a waste of time to get I think.
I added the cost to build my entire drivetrane in my Nova...5.3L, cam, valve springs, intake, injectors, turbo and all parts for it, intercooler, HP Tuners, Wideband, rebuild my TH350, Fuel system, Coan rebuilt my converter, Pretty much everything except the rear end. around $5k. 3 years later still runs good, and there isnt a time I drive it that it isnt to the floor. Daily driven everywhere in the summer.
I added the cost to build my entire drivetrane in my Nova...5.3L, cam, valve springs, intake, injectors, turbo and all parts for it, intercooler, HP Tuners, Wideband, rebuild my TH350, Fuel system, Coan rebuilt my converter, Pretty much everything except the rear end. around $5k. 3 years later still runs good, and there isnt a time I drive it that it isnt to the floor. Daily driven everywhere in the summer.
You can run a single intank racetronix pump to around 500 to maybe 600rwhp.
Go with 60s off the bat is my advice don't bother with 42s. If you want past 600rwhp then likley should go to dual intank setup like you can see on lonnies,nastys sites to name a couple. Or big single if you want to go past 1000rwhp Much past 600rwhp would also do bigger lines, rails and of course a boost referenced regulator.
I am going to twin intank with bigger lines ,rails and boost ref reg and also going to be upgrading to 79 pounders think right away. Might even have to go bigger later on will have to see.
Go with 60s off the bat is my advice don't bother with 42s. If you want past 600rwhp then likley should go to dual intank setup like you can see on lonnies,nastys sites to name a couple. Or big single if you want to go past 1000rwhp Much past 600rwhp would also do bigger lines, rails and of course a boost referenced regulator.
I am going to twin intank with bigger lines ,rails and boost ref reg and also going to be upgrading to 79 pounders think right away. Might even have to go bigger later on will have to see.
A single 340 might be good enough for the power you are looking for. Hell, two 255's are enough for 1,000. It gets pricey when you get into upgrading the lines.
Twin pumps-$200
Regulator-$160
20ft -8 $100
20ft -6$100
10 Micron filter $60
5 Micron filter $50
And that is not counting your fuel rails, cross over, fittings, or modified pump harness.
Twin pumps-$200
Regulator-$160
20ft -8 $100
20ft -6$100
10 Micron filter $60
5 Micron filter $50
And that is not counting your fuel rails, cross over, fittings, or modified pump harness.
And a single A1000 would do the trick, but you would have to modify your tank. Personally I wouldn't trust putting a fitting in a plastic tank. and I have heard the pump itself tends to get pretty warm with street driving. The twin in-tank pumps are more docile, and probably what you're looking for.