Y2K WS6

iTrader: (33)

I am putting an APS TT kit on my 2000 t/a I plan to upgrade heads, much of the valve train and probabally forged pistons ( if not now this fall)

I'm sticking with the stock 346/7 engine Aluminum block planning 650-700 (absolute max) HP. as it's primarily a street car.

I've thought about a Z06 cam I know how a cam works etc. but not sure what is optimum for the FI, especially the twin turbo kit.

Some suggested specs, and recommendations are greatly appreciated... even atricles on the ideas behind FI vs NA cam. I know you want less open time on the valves right meaning duration.

Thanks
Steve

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

You didn't specify engine or rwhp. Assume you mean engine hp. Pick a cam basically that has the characteristics that you want to see in one. For example if you don't want lope go higher on the lsa like 115 or higher. If you don't want to be really hard on your springs then stick under 600 lift. The duration argument is another big kettle of worms. We have proponents arguing for no split, reverse split and normal split. The whole turbo cam thing gave me a headache and wasn't really able to find any big dyno testing with the same engine testing the various cam theories out. It will for sure affect powerband not question about that.
I just bought used lingenfelter gt7 cam and called it a day. They use that cam in pretty much all their turbo cars even bigger displacements and their cars seem to run pretty good. I have no dyno numbers for you and my engine is not a 346 so not much point comparing mine.
Aps built a nice engine in 346 size and if you search far back you might find the threads.It had afr 225 heads, wilder cam than mine a gt11 think it was. They seemed to get good power out of that build also but not on a dynojet so the numbers were lower. Turbos do seem to compensate for cam and heads but still a good cam and heads can help off boost and area under the curve and powerband as previously stated.
Really wish high tech performance magazine with test various cams on turbo engine just to see the effects of the various theories.

Y2K WS6

iTrader: (33)

it will be RWHP. engine horse power is just what people with engine dynos setting around and car manufactures talk about lol.

In case you hadn't noticed the search function is about worthless any more. pulls up way too much crap even with hard work. I'll give it a shot though.

I don't care about lope, or springs because I am plainiing patriot duals.

I know what you mean about the headache. I don't need anything radicall really. that HP number should be pretty easy.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

The gt2-3 used to be lingenfelters cam of choice for fi and now its gt7. They are both very similar to factory z06 cams. They could have different lobes and stuff pure specs don't tell everything and they are made by comp for lingenfelter.

Here are the specs.I wanted more lift so went with 1.8 rockers which also slightly increase the duration specs.
2-03 ZO6 cam: 204/218 .551/.547 -117.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT2-3 207/220 .571/.578 –118.5CL

05-07 ZO6 cam 210/230 .561/.557 –120.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT7 208/230 .554/.546 –121CL

these specs are 1.7 rockers.


Lift is around .590 now I think with the 1.8.
You do want extra headroom with FI as valve float can happen easier than with NA especially at higher boost levels. It will be easy enough to hit those numbers with the kit but not on stock pistons. Stock pistons are garbage stick to 8 or less psi ,you could possibly go up to 10psi or so with heads that lower the compression but have seen many many stock pistons blown to pieces to trust them. yeah I now some guys seem to run them for a long time.
I would be conservative as long as you are on stock pistons. Once you forge up the pistons you can take the boost way higher of course. Stock cranks are strong if you are on a budget and stock rods not too bad either but rods are not that expensive when you are already in there. Rod bolts are supposed to be another weak stock link in the chain.
The search does seem to put out garbage no idea why ?
There were quite a few aps builds and dynos that have been put in this section.
But you almost have to manually scan thru the posts now it seems.

Since you don't have forged pistons anyway you might just want to run the stock cam and stock heads for now and keep the boost to 8 as said above. You are still going to be spending money on other things like rear ends, trans /clutch upgrading, fuel system upgrades..tires...suspension upgrades..brake upgrades are a good thing too.
Then when you go into the engine do for sure rods, pistons, heads and cam.
And once you hit 650 or 700 rwhp plan on buying lots of clean underwear.

Y2K WS6

iTrader: (33)

Thanks for the great info. I really appreciate it I've seen your build thread and it's awesome.

I have already bought injectors (not yet installed) suspension work is 99% done. I ahve a spare rear end sitting beside the car, and will have a ford 9" done in the summer. Brakes are done for now. But will upgrade in the future. Clutch is upgraded, and trans will be appart by the end of the week to redo a synchro. and basically find out all the other little crap that needs redone.

I was hoping to do forged pistons. just actually posted abotu the rods as to what they would take. (with arp bolts of course)

I have definitely contemplated just running on Stock 7PSI until fall it would give me a chance to get used to the springs. and i could put off major fuel system upgrades then.