1000hp which block to go with
#22
#24
you guys did the fairy dust? i thought santa did it before he dropped it off...
but yeah thats a sick build. back to the post though i would go iron personally but thats just me. i like the having the thought in my head that the block is stronger but theres been numerous people on here running that power level with allum. blocks. i dont think anone has asked this but do you have a budget and is this your first build?
but yeah thats a sick build. back to the post though i would go iron personally but thats just me. i like the having the thought in my head that the block is stronger but theres been numerous people on here running that power level with allum. blocks. i dont think anone has asked this but do you have a budget and is this your first build?
#25
our "ERL Dry Sleeve" blocks are very economical and I have 2 LS2 Dry Sleeve blocks in stock right now sleeved and they have billet main caps as well. If you have an LS2 block, you can just send us that one as a core exchange. We have a lot of different options and you can check them out on our website at www.erlperformance.com. Our packages I think are priced right and since we can use your LS block to sleeve or just as a core it makes it even better. We have engines running in road racing, drag racing, sand rails and street performance applications and they are very reliable so we should have something for just about everyone. Give us a shout if we can help. Thanks!
Sean
Sean
#29
9 Second Club
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LQ4 block is 100lbs heavier than an LS2 block. It also heats soaks if you're hotlapping it or driving it in traffic.
I chose the LQ4 block for strength and reliability. I run 900RWHP through a Turbo400 with a 4000 stall TC. I had to use a high performance water pump in order to keep the engine cool. Works well in traffic on a hot day with it.
100 passes on an aluminum block at 1000RWHP I'd say that's VERY impressive. For me...I don't like worrying about bore distortion at all! I guess I'm chicken. I removed some heavy stuff instead to counter the weight gain.
Any detonation at all and say goodbye to any motor.
I chose the LQ4 block for strength and reliability. I run 900RWHP through a Turbo400 with a 4000 stall TC. I had to use a high performance water pump in order to keep the engine cool. Works well in traffic on a hot day with it.
100 passes on an aluminum block at 1000RWHP I'd say that's VERY impressive. For me...I don't like worrying about bore distortion at all! I guess I'm chicken. I removed some heavy stuff instead to counter the weight gain.
Any detonation at all and say goodbye to any motor.
#30
TECH Apprentice
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So... to add to the debate, if someone was looking for a 1000+ rwhp, FI motor, for street use in the Texas climate, what's the best bet. LSX and ERL are about same price with everything factored in...soo
#31
Iron
Ironnnnn
LQ-9 No?
Man I'm currently getting my car finished up 408/F1-A I choose the Iron block hands down. I like the fact that touching the block up in needed is no concern and at the power level your wanting your not going to notice the diff in weight. IMO go for the Iron bro best bang for your buck, if your going 1000hp plus then I would say get a high end block (lsx, warhawk etc.) I have plenty of faith in the Iron block.....GL with your choice.
Man I'm currently getting my car finished up 408/F1-A I choose the Iron block hands down. I like the fact that touching the block up in needed is no concern and at the power level your wanting your not going to notice the diff in weight. IMO go for the Iron bro best bang for your buck, if your going 1000hp plus then I would say get a high end block (lsx, warhawk etc.) I have plenty of faith in the Iron block.....GL with your choice.