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-   -   LSX427 Cooling issue's???? (https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1164960-lsx427-cooling-issues.html)

HUNTER02SS Aug 17, 2009 07:09 PM

LSX427 Cooling issue's????
 
We drove the car appx 60 miles yesterday getting the tuning squared away.
Everything is fine except the water temp seemed to stay around the 210-215deg. while cruising and would creep up another 5 deg. at a stop light. I believe there is a 160thermastat in the motor. The hood was off the car as well. Any idea's what to do to get the motor to run cooler?

Inspector12 Aug 17, 2009 07:30 PM

Well are the head gaskets the correct ones for the LS7's you are running I know a few people who had some over heating issues with using the wrong gaskest. Just a thought. Other than that I would only think it would have to do with Turbo placement and cooling system setup GL! Its a bad ass car you built.
Jeff

Tiago Aug 17, 2009 07:35 PM

replied to your PM.

I would confirm the stat temp.

cablebandit Aug 17, 2009 08:03 PM

like we talked on the phone...dump anti freeze...move that chin spoiler so air gets to radiator and block off places where air can go around radiator.

HUNTER02SS Aug 17, 2009 08:10 PM


Originally Posted by Inspector12 (Post 12085928)
Well are the head gaskets the correct ones for the LS7's you are running I know a few people who had some over heating issues with using the wrong gaskest. Just a thought. Other than that I would only think it would have to do with Turbo placement and cooling system setup GL! Its a bad ass car you built.
Jeff

I don't have LS7 heads. I have cathedral port 265cc heads. I got some ideas to work on and should drop me 10 degrees.

HUNTER02SS Aug 17, 2009 08:11 PM


Originally Posted by Tiago (Post 12085957)
replied to your PM.

I would confirm the stat temp.

Thanks for the reply, and I will be also changing out the thermastat just to make sure.

HUNTER02SS Aug 17, 2009 08:12 PM


Originally Posted by cablebandit (Post 12086120)
like we talked on the phone...dump anti freeze...move that chin spoiler so air gets to radiator and block off places where air can go around radiator.

Yes sir, that is what I will be doing as well.

VINCE Aug 17, 2009 09:44 PM

Thicker iron blocks hold more heat. What are your oil temps? Higher oil temps will bring the coolant temps up as well.

Inspector12 Aug 17, 2009 09:57 PM


Originally Posted by HUNTER02SS (Post 12086153)
I don't have LS7 heads. I have cathedral port 265cc heads. I got some ideas to work on and should drop me 10 degrees.

Sounds good I just remebered Josh comenting and had posted that they were LS7 but he may have just been talking about the exahust flange during the build up thread maybe I am mistaken etc... But it was just a thought from a recent conversation with an engine builder etc...GL!

hawkls7 Aug 17, 2009 11:25 PM

i had overheating issues ,once the temp hot high it kept on going up not down.I ended changing the water pump to the evans and built a custom radiator. this made my temps more stable , general driving the gauge barely goes over a quarter.

LASTLS1 Aug 17, 2009 11:26 PM

Run a electric water pump, it will be hard to keep temp in the motor. lol

cablebandit Aug 18, 2009 12:22 AM

really? i have tried everything BUT an electric wp

black98ws6ta Aug 18, 2009 12:41 AM

Not really, the electric pump's flow less then stock. If you were to take a bunch of short trips it may help a ton to have the fan and pump on for a couple mins after the car turns off but over a long trip they are about the same or slightly less effective then a stocker.

cablebandit Aug 18, 2009 06:08 AM

what about at idle....wonder what stock flows at idle speed vs a 55gpm electric

hawkls7 Aug 19, 2009 05:59 AM


Originally Posted by black98ws6ta (Post 12087465)
Not really, the electric pump's flow less then stock. If you were to take a bunch of short trips it may help a ton to have the fan and pump on for a couple mins after the car turns off but over a long trip they are about the same or slightly less effective then a stocker.

you would be correct . if i was dragracing on constant then i would chose electric but for a streeter i went with the evans . the only prob is it does not cool when car has stoped. i have two electric fans one for engine and one for trans , every time i shut down , they turn on for about 30 sec

ASkipper Aug 19, 2009 07:00 AM

Found this in the Sponsor's sale section do you think it would help any.


Originally Posted by Stroker396@APF (Post 12087393)
Flow up to 25% more coolant to keep your engine cool.
Normally $139.00 Now $126.00
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/4648/waterpumpsm.jpg


Phil99vette Aug 19, 2009 07:53 AM

FWIW, 438" LSx filled block, ~2000hp, we can go to the track, in the staging lanes 165 MAX, down track does not see over 175, once we hit the return lane and drive back to the pits the temp does not get over 168. We're running a double pass drag style radiator and a 55gpm pump with a 160 stat thats been modified to open around 155.

cablebandit Aug 19, 2009 08:47 AM

Phil thanks for the info. I wonder how much heat you are losing due to the turbo being in the back as his turbo is right next to the intercooler. Also, daily driving is much worse than the staging lanes....everything in the engine compartment gets heatsoaked and thats when the temps start rising.

Phil99vette Aug 19, 2009 09:21 AM


Originally Posted by cablebandit (Post 12093658)
Phil thanks for the info. I wonder how much heat you are losing due to the turbo being in the back as his turbo is right next to the intercooler. Also, daily driving is much worse than the staging lanes....everything in the engine compartment gets heatsoaked and thats when the temps start rising.

My turbo is up front in the engine bay and the turbine is right next to the radiator(There is less than 1" of space between the exhaust side and the radiator tank. I can tell you this, my engine bay gets soo heat soaked it will not start after we come back from a run because the fuel lines are soo hot it vapor locks. But the coolant never goes above 165.

MY99TAWS6 Aug 19, 2009 09:39 AM

I would think you will need a big cooling system. Like ron davis rad, better water pump. maybe additional pusher fans,etc.

I am thinking to try out that high flow pump that is shown or simlar one have seen, Torn between ron davis or be cool rad and don't think have any room for additonal fans.I have seen one overheat on my setup,didn't boil over but temps did hit around 250. Normally they are around 200 even with 160 stat, fans coming on at like 160 both of them and redline water wetter with 50/50. The day I overheated I was also messing around with afr and timing and did have the air on.
Not sure you have air still on your build.And of course your build is hardcore compared to mine. Wonder if should add an oil cooler to mine as well.


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