Ok, I do have a 160thermastat, I drained the water and antifreeze out and filled it back up with straight water and a bottole of waterwetter. Also I wrapped my wastegate pipe sinsce it sits on top of the fan housing and was melting the rubber seal a little. So that should take care of that with the wrap. I did notice upon filling the radiator back up I had a tremendous amount of steam coming out of the radiator cap and just spewing the water out os the radiator. So now I am curious if this is some of my problem as well.

do you have your crossover line on the heads? its there to help purge out all the air.....

You are well within normal temp. operation. Many stock cars don't have the fans come on until 220-230 range. I have a 160 stat and my fans come on early but I still run around the temp. range you are seeing. I wish it was a little cooler but it doesn't cause a problem.

I have both front and rear x over tubes hooked up.

I am just hoping to get it a little cooler than it is.:D

I know you don't want to hear it but it sounds like you could possibly have a small amount of head gasket leakage if it really blowing out. Does it have bubbles in the radiator?

If the head gasket was leaking then under boost I would push water out the overflow and the temp would go higher than 210-215. I believe the steam is from me draining the radiator when the motor was still hot. Hot to where it would burn me. The water temp stays steady, I am just looking to get it a little cooler.

Yes I guess so,I didn't know you had boosted it much yet.Just trying to come up with somthing that would help.

No problem, I appreciate all the idea's.

my car would run hot with a griffin radiator, i then upgraded to a 27 x 19 radiator. it still ranhot. i then put the stock fans on and it runs abour 30* cooler. the stock fans helped the most.

I got my first radiator built by a company that builds them for the v8 supercar races a bit like your nascar , they told me it was the best. being a little wider and holding more volume, it cost me 1000 . it did not suite my application , my engine temps after power runs kept on climbing we had to shut down, it did not work . reason is that you need one that can cope with intercoolers and condensers . we built another one to our specs and then we tried the evans pump that flows more water at lower rpm .so far i am very pleased at the way it holds temp levels at traffic lights , its all trial and error , every combo is different.

Just curious as to who made your radiator and if you water pump is electric or a modifed mechanical one.

What fan setup do you have on there now? Maybe add or change out your fans do something that has more CFM, have 2 pullers and 1 or 2 pushers. Then get a high PSI radiator cap. Just some more ideas to help cool you down...

This is my fan setup. I think I may have found a small issue that will help with the cooling. I talked with Jerry (cablebandit) today and I believe I am only running around 26deg. of timing at cruising speed, so this may cause higher temps as well. My main problem I believe as well is the air dam on the bottom of the car. It is sitting behind the radiator a little now since we moved the radiator forward.

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/c...ansetup001.jpg

flex a lite now makes that same fan set-up with a swirled blade that is supposed to work better.

Yeah, you should be able to run 15-20 deg more timing at cruise.

Yeah, this is what we have determined as well.

Chris I looked at mine today and it was 23 deg at idle and as high as 41 deg when cruising

I know mine isn't anywhere that high when cruising. I tried calling Sam(tuner) but he is at Commerce this weekend for te ORSCA race tuning .

I bought some spal fans that pull some 2780cfm... how much do those pull/push?

Not sure.I think 25-2800cfm? They are pullers though.