Putting Together ProCharger Front Mount
I'm sure Bob at EPP can chime in if there is anything off. The intercooler appears to be the same as what we're using off ebay. They may have better silicone couplers in the EPP system than what comes with the ebay kits. EPP's FMIC I think uses steel piping while I got aluminum tubing with mine. The T Bolt clamps are pretty much the same thing.
For the couplers at the TB and at the supercharger outlet I got from Silicone Intakes since they weren't included in the ebay kit. I also had to get the aluminum pipe for the bypass valve and also had my machinist make a flange out of aluminum. (Procharger makes an aluminum flange, but it was handy to have one made locally since he gives me a good rate with the other work I give him.)
I spent almost $700 having mine put together in parts plus paying a buddy to weld the aluminum for me. I measured, cut, and mocked up the piping myself. That is including the intercooler, piping, couplers, clamps, and ATI race bypass valve. If you can find a good deal on a used valve or can weld the aluminum yourself you might get away a little cheaper, but for the time spent if you don't have the tools to do it yourself it adds up quick in labor.
For the couplers at the TB and at the supercharger outlet I got from Silicone Intakes since they weren't included in the ebay kit. I also had to get the aluminum pipe for the bypass valve and also had my machinist make a flange out of aluminum. (Procharger makes an aluminum flange, but it was handy to have one made locally since he gives me a good rate with the other work I give him.)
I spent almost $700 having mine put together in parts plus paying a buddy to weld the aluminum for me. I measured, cut, and mocked up the piping myself. That is including the intercooler, piping, couplers, clamps, and ATI race bypass valve. If you can find a good deal on a used valve or can weld the aluminum yourself you might get away a little cheaper, but for the time spent if you don't have the tools to do it yourself it adds up quick in labor.
Last edited by Aster; Nov 21, 2009 at 09:45 AM.
True, but the Procharger race bypass valve and aluminum flange cost me about $300 by itself. That is with getting an unused unit at a significant discount than buying it new. Then another $290 for the intercooler and variety of aluminum bends, couplers, and T-bolt clamps and the $100 I paid to have the pieces welded together, about half price from what his shop charges for the 8 or 9 welds he did.
It could have been done much cheaper if I didn't go with new pieces and a less expensive bypass valve.
It could have been done much cheaper if I didn't go with new pieces and a less expensive bypass valve.
You may be right, I don't see it listed on their parts list.
Oh I forgot to mention you will need a threaded IAT sensor, I think you can look it up from a GMC Syclone I don't remember the part number off hand but could get it if you need, and a bung for it. I got my aluminum bung from McMaster-Carr, part # 44705K318.
Oh I forgot to mention you will need a threaded IAT sensor, I think you can look it up from a GMC Syclone I don't remember the part number off hand but could get it if you need, and a bung for it. I got my aluminum bung from McMaster-Carr, part # 44705K318.
I'm sure Bob at EPP can chime in if there is anything off. The intercooler appears to be the same as what we're using off ebay. They may have better silicone couplers in the EPP system than what comes with the ebay kits. EPP's FMIC I think uses steel piping while I got aluminum tubing with mine. The T Bolt clamps are pretty much the same thing.
For the couplers at the TB and at the supercharger outlet I got from Silicone Intakes since they weren't included in the ebay kit. I also had to get the aluminum pipe for the bypass valve and also had my machinist make a flange out of aluminum. (Procharger makes an aluminum flange, but it was handy to have one made locally since he gives me a good rate with the other work I give him.)
Realistically EPP's setup is pretty well priced. I spent almost $700 having mine put together in parts plus paying a buddy to weld the aluminum for me. I measured, cut, and mocked up the piping myself. That is including the intercooler, piping, couplers, clamps, and ATI race bypass valve. If you can find a good deal on a used valve or can weld the aluminum yourself you might get away a little cheaper, but for the time spent if you don't have the tools to do it yourself it adds up quick in labor.
For the couplers at the TB and at the supercharger outlet I got from Silicone Intakes since they weren't included in the ebay kit. I also had to get the aluminum pipe for the bypass valve and also had my machinist make a flange out of aluminum. (Procharger makes an aluminum flange, but it was handy to have one made locally since he gives me a good rate with the other work I give him.)
Realistically EPP's setup is pretty well priced. I spent almost $700 having mine put together in parts plus paying a buddy to weld the aluminum for me. I measured, cut, and mocked up the piping myself. That is including the intercooler, piping, couplers, clamps, and ATI race bypass valve. If you can find a good deal on a used valve or can weld the aluminum yourself you might get away a little cheaper, but for the time spent if you don't have the tools to do it yourself it adds up quick in labor.
The Ebay stuff that I have seen is pathetic.
The above two pieces of silicone blew apart at just 10 psi on an STS Camaro we built. Once it had a hole in it, you could tear it apart like a piece of paper!
Bob
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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From: Savannah, GA
I bought my intercooler off ebay, piping from jegs, got the BPV flange from EPP, and got all the couplers and t-bolt clamps from siliconeintakes. I had a buddy do all my welding for me and my kit cost less than $400 for everything. Not too bad considering I was able to sell my old dual IC kit for like $500 
Bob, those pics are why I had no desire to do a silicone 90 on my TB. I'll agree the couplers they send you are 3 ply, but they'll try and tell you they're 4. I wouldn't trust any bend they sent, but the straight couplers work ok. I wasn't too upset about it, I just ordered the better couplers for the bends and reducers separately.
Chad, I agree, not counting the Bypass valve, 400 isn't a bad deal for putting it together oneself. I hear you there on selling the old kit, the twin 4.5" system paid for my front mount.
Chad, I agree, not counting the Bypass valve, 400 isn't a bad deal for putting it together oneself. I hear you there on selling the old kit, the twin 4.5" system paid for my front mount.
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Verdad Gallardo Bob, those pics are why I had no desire to do a silicone 90 on my TB. I'll agree the couplers they send you are 3 ply, but they'll try and tell you they're 4. I wouldn't trust any bend they sent, but the straight couplers work ok. I wasn't too upset about it, I just ordered the better couplers for the bends and reducers separately.
Chad, I agree, not counting the Bypass valve, 400 isn't a bad deal for putting it together oneself. I hear you there on selling the old kit, the twin 4.5" system paid for my front mount.
Chad, I agree, not counting the Bypass valve, 400 isn't a bad deal for putting it together oneself. I hear you there on selling the old kit, the twin 4.5" system paid for my front mount.
One of them was at the intercooler. Bob
That's bothersome, like I said I wouldn't trust any bent silicone coupler from one of these cheap sources. All my bends are hard pipe for that reason. I use the straight couplers with the pipes inside touching and tightened down the T-bolt clamps really good.
The only ones that aren't is the 4" to 3" reducer at the throttle body (4 or 5 ply bought from silicone intakes) and the 45 degree bend from the supercharger outlet, also beefy from the same place.
That is one of the nice parts of your system is that all the couplers and clamps are of good quality. I had the opprotunity to take a look at one about a month ago helping someone change out their bracket. The fitmet of everything looked pretty good. The only lament was the hard pipe was steel so he had a few rust spots.
The only ones that aren't is the 4" to 3" reducer at the throttle body (4 or 5 ply bought from silicone intakes) and the 45 degree bend from the supercharger outlet, also beefy from the same place.
That is one of the nice parts of your system is that all the couplers and clamps are of good quality. I had the opprotunity to take a look at one about a month ago helping someone change out their bracket. The fitmet of everything looked pretty good. The only lament was the hard pipe was steel so he had a few rust spots.
Going from Bob's web page for them it is slightly different if you get the MAF or Speed Density setup.
It does not look like it comes with a bypass valve, the one I looked at must have added it afterward.
Code:
Supplied Parts MAF Kit 1 - (12”x 24”x 4”) Intercooler 3 - 3 x 3” Silicone hump hose 1 - 3” Silicone double hump hose 1 - 4” to 3.5” 90 deg Silicone Elbow* 1 – 3.5” to 3” Silicone Reducer* 1 – 4.25” T-bolt Hose Clamp* 2 – 4.00” T-bolt Hose Clamps* 9 – 3.00” T-bolt hose clamps 4 - Intercooler supports 1 – IAT Sensor Speed Density Kit 1 - (12”x 24”x 4”) Intercooler 3 - 3 x 3” Silicone hump hose 1 - 3” Silicone double hump hose 1 – 4.0” 90 degree Silicone Elbow 1 – 4.0” to 3.0” Silicone Reducer 1 – 4.0” Coupler 3 – 4.00” T-bolt Hose Clamps 9 – 3.00” T-bolt Hose Clamps 4 – Intercooler Supports 1 – IAT Sensor
The bead rolled mandrel bent tubing should be on the parts list, I mentioned it to my guys last month as I noticed it wasn't on the parts list. A bypass valve is not included with the kit. Thanks. Bob
Joe you are welcome to come by and see my kit. I removed the support and fabbed up a 1x1 steel tube across so I wouldn't have to cut the support. I know how clean your car is so this might be a good idea for yours. Instead of cutting your car apart.
