low voltage issue after alternator relocation
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,406
Likes: 2
From: Tallahassee, Fl
low voltage issue after alternator relocation Ever since i finished my build i have had a weird issue with idle voltage from my alternator in its new location
at idle the voltage is dropping into the red area on the stock gauge and the car acts like it is very low on voltage. the turn signals are very slow to blink, lights are dim, etc etc. the car also does the stupid gauge sweep thing when you start it and resets the trip meter which i know is a sign of low voltage. strange thing is when i hook up a voltmeter to the batt it shows right around 13.5 at idle
the battery is brand new (installed when i finished the build) and the alt worked no problem before the teardown. also charges no problem when driving. only differences since before the build are alt moved to the upper pass head, trigger wire extended (used crimp connectors here, would soldering it make a difference?), shortened the stock wire to the battery, and hooked up the fuel pump hotwire kit to the back of the alt.
Any ideas
Thanks
at idle the voltage is dropping into the red area on the stock gauge and the car acts like it is very low on voltage. the turn signals are very slow to blink, lights are dim, etc etc. the car also does the stupid gauge sweep thing when you start it and resets the trip meter which i know is a sign of low voltage. strange thing is when i hook up a voltmeter to the batt it shows right around 13.5 at idle
the battery is brand new (installed when i finished the build) and the alt worked no problem before the teardown. also charges no problem when driving. only differences since before the build are alt moved to the upper pass head, trigger wire extended (used crimp connectors here, would soldering it make a difference?), shortened the stock wire to the battery, and hooked up the fuel pump hotwire kit to the back of the alt.
Any ideas
Thanks
Last edited by Tally TransAm; Jan 2, 2010 at 06:52 PM.
Pull your hot wire kit off and solder your connection. If the hotwire kit removed solves your issue.. BINGO. I would tie the hot wire to the other hot post on the drivers side of the car.
Was the car down for a while? It seems like I buy a new alternator everytime that my car sits for a few months. I'm on the 4th one in 3 yrs. I think that the stock fbody location is hard on them and once they sit, they fail.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,406
Likes: 2
From: Tallahassee, Fl
about 4 months. hmmm
im gonna try soldering the exciter tomorrow and moving hotwire. i hope i dont have to replace the alt because its gonna suck figuring out what kind of alt i have on my car, i think its for a mid 90's 1500 truck. i gotta check and see if theres a part number on it
im gonna try soldering the exciter tomorrow and moving hotwire. i hope i dont have to replace the alt because its gonna suck figuring out what kind of alt i have on my car, i think its for a mid 90's 1500 truck. i gotta check and see if theres a part number on it
Last edited by Tally TransAm; Jan 2, 2010 at 08:39 PM.
Ide also check that 1 thin wire that plugs in the alt for the PCM if its like the 02 alt?. From haveing mine off a few times that wire pulled out the plug alittle which gave me a false low volt on my gauge. If its mobile? matby have it checked while its running ,,,,May even be a bad gauge too? Never know till its checked while running Your alt may actually be fine. All of the above advice is top notch too, about soldering the connections as well
