Newbie: LY6 Engine to Turbo Engine Build
#1
Newbie: LY6 Engine to Turbo Engine Build
Thanks in advance guys.
I'm new to LS engines, not new to turbo engines though.
So.. as an introductory motor (that might actually make a ton of power), I'm contemplating buying a complete Ly6 production engine brand new and basically changing a few major components to make it turbo ready:
Crank (how much will the stock one hold?)
Rods
Pistons (shoot for 8.5: to 9.5: 1)
Valve springs
Cam
Intake
Injectors
Are there any general suggestions you guys would have that are relatively cheap to do with the engine? Are there any oil system changes that need to be made? I'm not necessarily shooting for a HP number (although I expect it to be >1000) and <7000rpm. ....just getting into the engine build/transplant before dropping big $ into a LSX build.
Recommendations for rotating pieces, brands, pistons, etc. would be great too.
Basically, plus's and minuses of this idea in general are fine. I'm leaning towards the LY6 as it is complete and cheap compared to piecing together a short block, heads, and general engine components.
What's the HP limit realistically for the engine to live a while?
Thanks much.
I'm new to LS engines, not new to turbo engines though.
So.. as an introductory motor (that might actually make a ton of power), I'm contemplating buying a complete Ly6 production engine brand new and basically changing a few major components to make it turbo ready:
Crank (how much will the stock one hold?)
Rods
Pistons (shoot for 8.5: to 9.5: 1)
Valve springs
Cam
Intake
Injectors
Are there any general suggestions you guys would have that are relatively cheap to do with the engine? Are there any oil system changes that need to be made? I'm not necessarily shooting for a HP number (although I expect it to be >1000) and <7000rpm. ....just getting into the engine build/transplant before dropping big $ into a LSX build.
Recommendations for rotating pieces, brands, pistons, etc. would be great too.
Basically, plus's and minuses of this idea in general are fine. I'm leaning towards the LY6 as it is complete and cheap compared to piecing together a short block, heads, and general engine components.
What's the HP limit realistically for the engine to live a while?
Thanks much.
#2
LY6 is factory 9.6:1 compression.
changing the rotating assembly out would be unnecessary. No need to spend big money to get a lot of power out of the LY6. I'd change out valve springs, pushrods, leave the stock cam, upgrade injectors and put a turbo on it. Don't buy it new, you'll spend a ridiculous amount of money; get a low mileage unit out of a newer truck.
im going to guess that the LY6 is 8-10 psi safe. 600-700rwhp maybe?
changing the rotating assembly out would be unnecessary. No need to spend big money to get a lot of power out of the LY6. I'd change out valve springs, pushrods, leave the stock cam, upgrade injectors and put a turbo on it. Don't buy it new, you'll spend a ridiculous amount of money; get a low mileage unit out of a newer truck.
im going to guess that the LY6 is 8-10 psi safe. 600-700rwhp maybe?
#3
I'm ok with that starting compression, but how much HP would the pistons, crank, rods be good for you think?
I'd like to make >1000hp with this "starter" engine. Will be taking out a 6-700 rwhp engine to do this.
I'd like to make >1000hp with this "starter" engine. Will be taking out a 6-700 rwhp engine to do this.
#5
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If you want 1200hp at the crank to get your 1000rwhp you would need forged rods and pistons. Then ARP fasteners for the heads. Get a used pull out from a wrecked truck and put those parts in it. Then boost the **** out of it. You should be able to have less than 2 g's into the motor. If it frys, get another, lol. You also run the risk of pushing water with the stock heads due to the thin deck thickness. Trick Flow as cast would be a budget way to get thick heads to resist pushing water and lifting.
#6
Turboav, that was the type of input i was looking for.
What's up with the ricer math? I hope mr220v doesn't believe this.
Let's get over the price of the ly6, I will do this on the best budget. Haven't priced what a used truck motor costs. Whatever it is, the rods and pistons should add just over a grand I would think.
I have a line on a good deal on a motor.. I figure new is good place to start - good block, fresh heads, etc. also getting the coi packs, etc.
What about the crank? I've heard they're good for big HP, but I can't see it in a cast crank... at least not being forgiving if something should happen.
Are the trick flows as remotely cheap as L92s? The increment would be to get 6 bolt heads in prep for a new shortblock. Really trying to do this as a "street" setup though as I don't need to make the power and have the budget of a true racer.
What's up with the ricer math? I hope mr220v doesn't believe this.
Let's get over the price of the ly6, I will do this on the best budget. Haven't priced what a used truck motor costs. Whatever it is, the rods and pistons should add just over a grand I would think.
I have a line on a good deal on a motor.. I figure new is good place to start - good block, fresh heads, etc. also getting the coi packs, etc.
What about the crank? I've heard they're good for big HP, but I can't see it in a cast crank... at least not being forgiving if something should happen.
Are the trick flows as remotely cheap as L92s? The increment would be to get 6 bolt heads in prep for a new shortblock. Really trying to do this as a "street" setup though as I don't need to make the power and have the budget of a true racer.
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#8
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The Trick Flow as cast are around $1600. Killer price for a thick deck head that wont wiggle around on you under high boost. L92's flow awesome, but have a thin deck, so you don't want to run those to high in boost pressure. Stock GM cranks in these new generation engines are good to 1200hp+. Hard to believe, but true. I'm using GM 243 castings on my build and I hope they hold to 18-20psi with a Procharger. If not I will try the Trick Flows.
#9
So you're saying an ly6 at 18psi wouldn't put you at around 750whp? With a cam it seems pretty realistic to me.
I think the idea is good, and we might do something similar with my brother's ly6 firebird, but if you don't like the commentary, then I'll change my mind for the sake of this thread, and say that you are radically underestimating the budget on this, and need to plan on spending 15k+ and that your goal of 1000hp for 2k is unrealistic.
Ricer math aside, with one of these sitting in the driveway running on stock electronics, and with functional vvt, I think we're in a good position to say what can and can't be done.
I think the idea is good, and we might do something similar with my brother's ly6 firebird, but if you don't like the commentary, then I'll change my mind for the sake of this thread, and say that you are radically underestimating the budget on this, and need to plan on spending 15k+ and that your goal of 1000hp for 2k is unrealistic.
Ricer math aside, with one of these sitting in the driveway running on stock electronics, and with functional vvt, I think we're in a good position to say what can and can't be done.
Last edited by mr220v; 01-07-2010 at 10:53 AM.
#12
Right..
This coming from someone who looks to have dumped a RIDICULOUS amount of money into his fat *** of a GTO so he could run 12's........
Where did you come up with the math for that gem of a purchasing decision? And your last name wouldn't happen to be Thacker, would it ?
This coming from someone who looks to have dumped a RIDICULOUS amount of money into his fat *** of a GTO so he could run 12's........
Where did you come up with the math for that gem of a purchasing decision? And your last name wouldn't happen to be Thacker, would it ?
#14
#15
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iTrader: (6)
Right..
This coming from someone who looks to have dumped a RIDICULOUS amount of money into his fat *** of a GTO so he could run 12's........
Where did you come up with the math for that gem of a purchasing decision? And your last name wouldn't happen to be Thacker, would it ?
This coming from someone who looks to have dumped a RIDICULOUS amount of money into his fat *** of a GTO so he could run 12's........
Where did you come up with the math for that gem of a purchasing decision? And your last name wouldn't happen to be Thacker, would it ?
So why you busting my chops?
Edit: How is "my buddy made 250hp, so since yours is 3 times bigger, you should make 750hp" not ricer math?
#16
a 6L L92 headed engine on 18 psi.... would be well over 700rwhp... **** it'd probably be way too much to run through the motor on stock internals for very long. But I doubt you'd need 18 psi to make 750rwhp.... with full bolt-ons and a turbo you'd maybe need 12-15?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...s1-camaro.html
14 psi made 646rwhp with stage 2 patriot heads on a stock 346 cubed LS1....
considering the L92's flow like a hogged out set of Stage 124342512341234234 LS1 or LS6 heads, the LY6 has more cubes and has VVT... I'd say that 18 psi is more than enough for 750rwhp.
#17
Who knows how the vvt will factor in? My guess would be favorably. Seems like a lot of people here dismiss it, but it's the closest thing you can do to adding displacement.
#18
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[QUOTE=pillagenburn;12719349]the LY6 is iron ... the LS2 is aluminum, so yeah I'd imagine the LY6 is a good deal stronger, block-wise.[/QUOTE
Im sorry, you are correct. I meant between the ls2 and the ls3 or l92.
Im sorry, you are correct. I meant between the ls2 and the ls3 or l92.
#19
[QUOTE=myth;12719694]afaik they are all pretty much the same strength - maybe some additional strength in the later L92/LS3 variants. It's all aluminum anyway - you buy it for weight savings (~70lbs) while still retaining a lot of strength. Any way you go, you get a strong motor.
#20
Alright alright with all of the bickering about ricer math.
So... the biggest obstacle here is the heads may lift.. is what everyone is saying on these L92's on a boosted motor.
Is it worth drilling for 1/2" studs? or will the heads still lift?
Crank hp is 1200 max?
what about the powdered metal maincaps? do they break?
So... the biggest obstacle here is the heads may lift.. is what everyone is saying on these L92's on a boosted motor.
Is it worth drilling for 1/2" studs? or will the heads still lift?
Crank hp is 1200 max?
what about the powdered metal maincaps? do they break?