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22x19x3 rad. car running hot...

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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 12:05 AM
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Default 22x19x3 rad. car running hot...

Okay so I have a 22x19x3" griffin radiator in my car and currently have a PUSHER FAL116 2000cfm FAL 16" fan trying to keep it cool. Unfortunately I have 0 room to fit anything bigger since the 4" core I/C is RIGHT in front of the rad. The temps slowly climb when i get on it then stay where they are till I get on it again..all the way up to 220* .On the highway at 80mph the temp still doesnt go down they just stay where they are.(im guessing the I/C being RIGHT in front of it blocking the rad). I have a 160* thermostat in the car.

Heres my questions:

1. Will switching to a PUSHER FAL119 fan that flows 2500cfm help at all?(already ordered it in hopes it might)
2.Would putting a 12" puller fan on the other side of the radiator help at all(or even work at all?)
3.If neither work would it be better off to get a THINNER (slightly wider) 24x19x2" and use either the single 2500cfm or both the 16" and 12" on the other side help?

Theres no room to go any better with the setup since ive fit just about everything i could into this engine bay(10lbs of **** in a 5lbs bag)
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 12:33 AM
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If there is anyway you can fit a puller fan(s) on the other side it will help a ton. Also a shroud so the fan is pulling across the whole core rather then just under the fan.

Last edited by black98ws6ta; Apr 8, 2010 at 12:41 AM.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 05:59 AM
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at low load conditions, it shouldn't take much to cool the system down...so I personallythink you have another issue ...check these two things:

#1 it appears that the fal116 is a reversible fan...I'm not familiar with this particular fan but on the reversible I ran (factory configured as a puller), I had to take the blades off and flip them for pusher use. Otherwise it had ****-poor flow.

#2 Are you sure you have the system 100% purged (is the radiator cap higher than the stem lines coming out of the heads?)
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 06:45 AM
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been there on the i/c blocking the radiator, but usually was only a problem at idle-now i mount them as low as possible to uncover the rad.
as mentioned, is the fan blowing air the correct way-i saw a problem where a guy had his fan wired rev and was blowing air the wrong way, lol
a puller is better than a pusher, if room-i like the Spawl fans, some of the other fans may state a certain CFM, but when trying to push, they just cant blow the air thru, called static something or other
a 4" core is def a huge block for incoming air
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
at low load conditions, it shouldn't take much to cool the system down...so I personallythink you have another issue ...check these two things:
my first thought too
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 07:47 AM
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Had lots of air pockets in my system finally have them out I think. You can try redline water wetter,160 stat and have fans run anytime engine is on bascially. Some guys have good luck with evans coolant.

And you can buy ls1 high flow water pumps..I got one from LM speed or something fairly reasonable in price as well. My strategy this season is Ron Davis rad, high flow water pump, got rid of underdrive pulley for non underdrive. adding redline water wetter,160 stat and fans on at around 160. No pusher fan just factory pullers. Hoping maybe Ron Davis will make aluminum dual slim line high out put fan option for our cars like he does for many other ones.And mabye I can squeeze in a pusher. Pushers and pullers usually are both good ideas if you can fit them in.
But of course you car is tight so that limits options. But for sure air pockets will make the car run much hotter too.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
at low load conditions, it shouldn't take much to cool the system down...so I personallythink you have another issue ...check these two things:

#1 it appears that the fal116 is a reversible fan...I'm not familiar with this particular fan but on the reversible I ran (factory configured as a puller), I had to take the blades off and flip them for pusher use. Otherwise it had ****-poor flow.

#2 Are you sure you have the system 100% purged (is the radiator cap higher than the stem lines coming out of the heads?)
It is reversible. At first I had the blades backwords and it was TERRIBLE...then i flipped them around and it seems to be better..but not too much better. Today while driving around the temp(with a 160* thermo) was around 190 and would drop a little..but as soon as I got into any kind of boost it would shoot up to 200/210/220 and stay around those levels and not go down.

Again this fan only flows 2000cfm...maybe not enough to push enough air past the 3" core? Maybe the 2500cfm fan will make a difference? And the rad. cap is about level maybe SLIGHTLY above the steam lines. I pulled those and they were pissing water so I put the line back on. Also at first the over flow tank was full and after I let the car warm completely up and drive it around a little I came back out the next morning and the over flow was just about empty..filled it up again and now its staying where it should.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 09:45 PM
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im running into the same problems as you, its fine as long as i stay out of boost but as soon as it sees any it wants to climb. im running the same size radiator you are with a 16" puller
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 1998TA__1991RS
im running into the same problems as you, its fine as long as i stay out of boost but as soon as it sees any it wants to climb. im running the same size radiator you are with a 16" puller
Which fan specifically?
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