alcohol injection
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I have a non adjustable alcohol injection system on my FI setup. Since the activation point is set by turning an allen screw on the bottom of the pump, I have no way to know where (if at all) the system is activating.
If I could find a manual pump that works like the vacuum pump, but creates a positive (boost) reading, it would be simple, but having really found anything.
does someone sell a "marked" adjustable switch that I could get and plug into my system to control activation?
If I could find a manual pump that works like the vacuum pump, but creates a positive (boost) reading, it would be simple, but having really found anything.
does someone sell a "marked" adjustable switch that I could get and plug into my system to control activation?
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Have you called alkycontrol.com?
Not yet; wanted to see if anyone had any personal experience/suggestions to "set up" a non progressive system.
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The allen key on the top of the pump just adjusted the pressure switch on shurflo brand pumps. And on aquatec style pumps they adjust the bypass. There is a reason every meth injection company that can has switched to aquatec brand pumps. But neither of the pumps will it allow you to adjust the turn on of the system. Honesty i would recommend just buying a complete kit. The newer stuff is really a lot better than the older stuff.
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the instructios with the kit says to adjust the allen screw on the bottom of the pump to set the activation (from 1psi to 20psi I think.) It comes preset at 10psi, but as I mentioned before, without either data logging a run and looking for a change in IAT, or having a manual pump that will create "boost" while I'm parked, there isn't a very accurate way to set it. If I wasn't pushing the limits of the stock bottom end, I wouldn't worry, but since I am, I need some meth.![Cry](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cry.gif)
I emailed the guys at "devils own" to get some info on their kit, but haven't heard back.![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)
I'm hopping that the jets used by various manufacturers are the same size. I've got dual injection with my jets tapped into my aluminum charge pipe, and need to go back with the exact same size jet.....
![Cry](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cry.gif)
I emailed the guys at "devils own" to get some info on their kit, but haven't heard back.
![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)
I'm hopping that the jets used by various manufacturers are the same size. I've got dual injection with my jets tapped into my aluminum charge pipe, and need to go back with the exact same size jet.....
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The allen screw on the pump only changes the pressure the switch de-activates power to the pump. So if its set at 70 PSI.. you turn it in.. it goes to 80 PSI. Or 90.. or 200. Depending on the pump. It has nothing to do with when the system activates.
The Shurflo makes more pressure/flow than the Aquatec. The switch is becuase everyone who's switched was using the cheapest Shurflo they make and when it failed.. the got what they paid for. Like complaining my Ford Escort is a POS.. I'm going to Dodge and buy a Neon. When they should of been using Lincolns and never had the problems.
With injection systems.. you get what you pay for...if your lucky. These days with all the chinese stuff floating around.. be watchful.
The problem not having a controller is simply tuning. Tuning the car from inside the cab is way friendlier than opening the hood 20 times and dis-assembling the motor multiple times to change nozzles. You have to mess with the pressure switch on the pump and nozzle size. Coupled with the hobbs switch used to activate it. In the process you subject your own vehicle to a lot of trail and error. best case is you eventually get things figured out latter than sooner. Worse case you hurt the engine and any money saved has been flushed down the toilet x10.
Dyno time is 100 per hour. So you install a 100 dollar kit and takes 6 hours of fiddling to get it rite or spend 600 and spend 1 hour. Weather changes.. your back to square zero on tuning it again on the cheaper setup.
The Shurflo makes more pressure/flow than the Aquatec. The switch is becuase everyone who's switched was using the cheapest Shurflo they make and when it failed.. the got what they paid for. Like complaining my Ford Escort is a POS.. I'm going to Dodge and buy a Neon. When they should of been using Lincolns and never had the problems.
With injection systems.. you get what you pay for...if your lucky. These days with all the chinese stuff floating around.. be watchful.
The problem not having a controller is simply tuning. Tuning the car from inside the cab is way friendlier than opening the hood 20 times and dis-assembling the motor multiple times to change nozzles. You have to mess with the pressure switch on the pump and nozzle size. Coupled with the hobbs switch used to activate it. In the process you subject your own vehicle to a lot of trail and error. best case is you eventually get things figured out latter than sooner. Worse case you hurt the engine and any money saved has been flushed down the toilet x10.
Dyno time is 100 per hour. So you install a 100 dollar kit and takes 6 hours of fiddling to get it rite or spend 600 and spend 1 hour. Weather changes.. your back to square zero on tuning it again on the cheaper setup.