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Wondering about a stock LQ4 LQ9 under boost

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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 01:45 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by tirefryin_s10
With stock diamater head studs and ported 317s Im somewhere in the neighborhood of 1050ish hp Ive been 160mph in the 1/4 @3325 lbs.
how well did it run with this cam in it?

comp 212/218 and .522/.529 lift on 114 LSA

when did it start spooling the t76? i've gotta 1.1ar small 83mm turbine s480 t6 and was curious as to how it may spool, my cam is 218/229 545/545 on a 114lsa
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 01:54 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1
how well did it run with this cam in it?

comp 212/218 and .522/.529 lift on 114 LSA

when did it start spooling the t76? i've gotta 1.1ar small 83mm turbine s480 t6 and was curious as to how it may spool, my cam is 218/229 545/545 on a 114lsa

Ive never had that cam in this engine. and this engine never had a single 76 on it. You must be thinking of my stock 5.3 it had that cam and a single 76 and spooled around 3500.

The stock bottom 6.0 had a 242/238 610/605 lift cam on a 115 and twin 70 mm turbos and it spooled around 3500 as well.
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 02:03 PM
  #43  
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From: hugo okla.
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Originally Posted by tirefryin_s10
Ive never had that cam in this engine. and this engine never had a single 76 on it. You must be thinking of my stock 5.3 it had that cam and a single 76 and spooled around 3500.

The stock bottom 6.0 had a 242/238 610/605 lift cam on a 115 and twin 70 mm turbos and it spooled around 3500 as well.
yep, i clikd the link in your siggy and took that cam spec off the 1st page of the thread what did the 5.3 give up at lbs wise?ever dyno that combo?
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 07:22 PM
  #44  
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Made 600ish rwhp on 16.5 if I remember right and ran it on 18.5 a lot of times with no issues. Never did break it.
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Old Oct 30, 2010 | 02:39 AM
  #45  
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ah yes I needed to put this in there but it was no fault of the engine just the people I let touch my car. Apparently the brainiacs that put my transmission in thought it would be super cool to wrap some wires around the manifolds because idk they were in the way but I ended up having a nasty lean spike on the highway (car died and had to get towed at 12am) and yup there went 2 pistons.
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Old Apr 26, 2019 | 01:36 AM
  #46  
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Default Lq4 boosted

So if u set ur timing ro 16 degrees u didnt use ecu? And what did u gap the rings? At to run 15 psi .025"?
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Old Jul 27, 2019 | 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Beaumont69_local128
So if u set ur timing ro 16 degrees u didnt use ecu? And what did u gap the rings? At to run 15 psi .025"?
Damn dude this post is 9 years old and the other one you brought back from the dead was from 2007, Are using a time machine to go back and find these posts?
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 08:07 PM
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At least someone uses the search function
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Old Jul 31, 2019 | 05:42 AM
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187k mile stock lq4 rings gapped to .024 . 9.01 at 150 3510 lbs . 18 psi boost. ran for 6 years
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 09:04 AM
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Nothing wrong with necromacing
Its actually interesting that there isn't as much about 6.0L LQ4/LQ9 parts interchangeability as one would think, as well as what combination works well with other parts. Doing a search on google gets us a bunch of stuff from about 2005 to 2010 which some is a bit out dated or a bunch of started threads but not much attention, and save for a few newer ones from 2019 with LQ4/LQ9 gen 4 rods and crank stuff that pops up from time to time, there isn't as much stuff on it unless you cross-reference some LS2 stuff to LQ9 stuff, as they are very similar in parts and dimensions. I think since the Gen 4 stuff has started to take of more, Gen 3 iron blocks have begun to take a back seat, other than some conversions such as deleting AFM and converting them to a non DOD engine to run after market cams and whatnot.
With that said, we all know with Richard Holdeners Big bang Tests and Sloppy Mechanics builds, we are just now starting to see how much these stock parts abuse can take. I mean come on.. 1000 to 1400hp on STOCK rods, pistons, and cranks? Granted the 6.0 with gen 3 rods let go but did so after 1200hp and failed gen 3 rod, but the one with gen rods quit only after they ran out of MAP and fuel, but was still together!

10 years ago the accepted theory was dont put anything more than 600hp on stock parts, and you need forged everything for boost, and if you dont buy the most expensive name brand part, you get flogged by every sponsored racer or deep pocket weekend warrior for suggesting anything otherwise...... now its evident that a with a junkyard mule with some good fuel, a few precautionary parts, occasional gapped rings, and some decent tuning you can boost the **** out of these junkyard mills with sloppy success. Hell, some guys are just tossing together ls parts from various other engines without even balancing them which is insane, but remarkable at the same time, and still having success.

I myself currently in the process of putting together an LQ4 with gen 4 rods and flat top pistons, .028 gapped rings, ls9 head gaskets, with stock 317 heads, that will net me 10.1 CR, coupled with a summit stage 2 turbo 226/230 cam, bigger injectors, and one more pump should be a fun time. I have 80lbs injectors and a 450 walbro, but i think i may need slightly larger injectors, like 95lbs and maybe even more pump, like dual 255 or even dual 450s. Im already running my stock LS1 with 10psi of boost with a gt45 and a fat afr currently. been running 10psi down this TA's throat for almost 8 years all on 93 pump and occasionally meth. I keep my RPM pretty reasonable around 6200 rpm, which i have to with stock valve springs currently lol Id like to maintain some out of boost drive ability, so i feel dropping the CR to 9.4CR is a bit low for my liking, although i will still have the lq4 dished pistons sitting around, as i still have to get the flat top pistons still. Im also not going to be cramming 20+psi into the engine either. Somewhat limited to the 98 PCM and a two bar MAP, so 15 PSI is the most I would run anyway. So having my CR up at 10:1 will make not needing a lot of boost in the first place easier. Im not sure how much exact boost id need to make up the difference from 9.4 to 10cr, but ive heard some where around 3 to 4psi. Mine is a street/strip car so i dont frequent the track all that often, so i feel street manners would be better, and keeping the boost at 10psi except when i want to track it and bump the boost to 15 for those days would suit my needs more.
This combination will at least let me have a standby engine sooner in case the ls1 finally lets go, and i can also find another cheap 6.0L candidate and slowly build another more serious engine for later use, such as a boosted and forged 408 which will take more time and money to put together. The saying is, the better the engine runs NA, the better it will be in boost, all things being equal of course.

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