Best Engine to Boost?
Best Engine to Boost? Looking to make a wish list for future modifications, i'm on to the engine now and don't know what to go for. I'm looking to start with an engine that can be built to run reliably NA with at least 400rwhp, then later when the money comes around slap on a procharger and make as much power as possible. I'm a college kid, so it can't break the bank, but i'm not going to cheap out on an engine build. So whats the best bang for my buck that will do what i want and last as long as possible?
Go ls1 or lq9 block and stock crank with eagle rods and diamond dish pistons with upgraded arp hardware, ls9 gaskets, ls6 or ls7 cam, and 317 heads. That's about the best bang for the buck and should run at ~400rwhp and hold ~750rwhp easily with an FI setup down the road.
^^ Yep what he said. Throw some decent rods and pistons in your current motor. Keep the stock crank. Get you a Brutespeed blower cam (if you have the dough) and some stock 317 heads. You'll be good for lots of power later on.
like the OP i am looking toward FI down the road. been reading here for what seems ever. hows the crank going to be at 140k+ miles. i mean i know inspect it and whatnot, but should it be good if the engine has no isses? sorry to hijack.
At that point you might as well shell out a couple bucks for a low mileage stock crank. They're a dime a dozen...
Theres's a "Budget" 347 with a GT88 Turbo that put out 1142 RWHP. Look up Automagic LS1. I was in the same boat as you. I decided to keep my ls1. Few lbs lighter..May have to run a few more PSI of boost to get you where the 6.0L would.
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1000+hp Mileage means nothing to a crankshaft also. If its good its good, if its bad its bad. If you trashed a bearing so bad that it heated up and turned the crank a different color (tan/blue) that is the only thing that will alter the molecular state of the metal. If you pulled it out of a 400k mile motor and its still all shiny and mic's out perfect.... run it.
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Bwahahaha.
Seriously though, all of the above has been great advice. I've been running my "budget" 370 for 5 years now. Diamond pistons and Scat rods.
That AES 5.3 boost motor also looks like a helluva deal for $2599. And you can get them in an alum block for a couple hundred more.
Seriously though, all of the above has been great advice. I've been running my "budget" 370 for 5 years now. Diamond pistons and Scat rods.
That AES 5.3 boost motor also looks like a helluva deal for $2599. And you can get them in an alum block for a couple hundred more.
Since you're gonna be NA for awhile, I recommend you get a good blower cam, a flat-top forged piston with a little valve relief to keep compression up versus the dished pistons, and a nice set of rods for your ls1. This will allow you to make more power NA, as you will not like a low compression engine off boost. When you get ready to slap on the blower, switch out your heads for some 317's and your compression will be around 9.5:1, which is boost friendly. This is not the best setup, but it will get the job done without breaking the bank.
A lkot of people have bought our blower cam and picked up around 60 rwhp N/A, as they too were doing the engine before adding forced induction. Here is a link to this camshaft. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Comp-Brut...n-Camshaft.htm Bob
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
A lkot of people have bought our blower cam and picked up around 60 rwhp N/A, as they too were doing the engine before adding forced induction. Here is a link to this camshaft. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Comp-Brut...n-Camshaft.htm Bob
Yes they were. Thanks for inquiring. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
I like my lq blocks, might be alittle heavy, but you can always make up for that! Plus you start with a bigger bore, and if your real budget minded, you can just swap out a cam/springs and run it for awhile!! I think someone just swapped springs and took one into the high 9s!!!
Eitherway, they are cheap.
Eitherway, they are cheap.
So for those of you recommending keeping my stock LS1 block. I have 143k miles on this motor, so what would need be done before building it up? Full rebuild, stroke/bore, etc. Then i just need to buy eagle rods, diamond dish pistons, upgraded hardware, a blower cam, and 317 heads and the engine should be good to go and slap on a procharger eventually?
So for those of you recommending keeping my stock LS1 block. I have 143k miles on this motor, so what would need be done before building it up? Full rebuild, stroke/bore, etc. Then i just need to buy eagle rods, diamond dish pistons, upgraded hardware, a blower cam, and 317 heads and the engine should be good to go and slap on a procharger eventually?
Since you have 143k on that block, take it to a machine shop to get inspected along with your stock crank. If everything checks out ok, then you can have it honed according to the piston you will be running. I also recommend you have your new rotating assembly balanced.
