superman2002

I have ms3 cam in a stock ls1 will it work with d1 procharger or is it to big? Any info would be appreciated new to the induction world it will be street and strip car.

mattster03

iTrader: (22)

What lobe seperation angle (LSA) do you have on your cam? My guess is probably 112, in which case not only would it be a huge cam, but it would also leak boost which is clearly not ideal. Typically, a good boost cam has an LSA of 114-117 degrees with at least 6 degrees greater duration on the exhaust. If I were you, I would sell the MS3 invest in a good blower cam.

Here is an example of the Futral F7 blower cam I am using for my procharger setup:

Intake: 224 degrees, 0.585" lift
Exhaust: 230 degrees, 0.595" lift
LSA: 114 degrees

old motorhead

iTrader: (10)

Just about any cam will work. Lots of cams will work better than what you have. Is your cam optimum for your app? Not in my book. If you like how it drives and don't want to spend the time and money for a cam swap, use it. A smaller, blower specific cam will drive better, get better fuel eco, be easier to tune, and will give up little if any power. I'd swap it....but I also have no tolerance for bad mannered cams. Your choice.

yessir

iTrader: (5)

run it.....if you dont like it , swap it. No sense in taking on the time, money and effort if there isnt a need. the cam you have is already in the car so its esentially free to try it

JaYZeig

iTrader: (11)

i say swap to a more "realistic" cam to get the most out of your setup..your engine is basically fighting itself to make the power it could be making with the right cam. i swapped out my ms4 cam :\ (loved that cam) for a custom grind turbo cam

mattster03

iTrader: (22)

that really doesn't make much sense to me. if he would just "run it", he is setting himself up for wasting a tune and a heck of a lot of additional work. just my opinion...

LS1RedZ

iTrader: (19)

Yeah exactly. Get it tuned right with the right components so you wont have to go back and spend additional money.

The MS3 cam is a pretty popular cam, so if I were you I would throw it in the classifieds and go from there. Sell it and buy an EPP (Brutespeed) blower cam. I think you'll be much happier in the long run.

JRsZ06

It will work, and it will work better than the so called "blower" cams out there.

Save your money.

My buddy's blower car-1000rwhp through an auto-cam has lots of overlap.

Those are 345 drag radials spinning on the dyno

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwICXzUwEMs

Wing Zer0

iTrader: (3)

Hallelujah! Thank you for posting that and giving me some hope in my decision .lol Sorry o p, I dont mean to high Jack. This is my debate also and did not feel I should start another "is cam to large for Supercharger" thread. Because I just obtained a T-trim.

tripblackls1

iTrader: (11)

fyi ms3 cam specs 237/242 .603/.609" with a choice of lsa 112-114
i have one(113 lsa) that im going to run in my car, and i see what happens
if you have a 113 or 114 i would say run it but a 112 lsa is defiantly not going to help

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I have seen a lot of non blower cams works surprisingly well. The main problem when using one of these cams is the blower has to be spun faster to accommodate the loss of boost from the overlap. When using a blower that is marginally on the small side to begin with for a given engine combination, this can cause problems. With a D-1SC on a basically stock LS1 with the ms3 camshaft, I'd say you would be good to go as long as you run the eight rib set-up. The eight rib uses a 7.65 crank pulley, while the six rib uses a much smaller 6.0" crank pulley. The six ribs smaller crank pulley results in having to use a much smaller pulley on the head unit, which leads to having less belt wrap that can cause belt slippage. With the eight rib system and your engine combination, and assuming your elevation is not up in the clouds, I'd start out with a 4.00 blower pulley for 8 psi of boost. Bob

stevieturbo

Agreed.

And without dyno testing dozens of cams on any persons specific setup, you'll never know what is the most optimal cam. But you can be sure almost any cam will make power. Just depends what driving manners you want to go with it.

I hate lumpy idles myself.

If you wanted a cheap replacement, a LS9 camshaft would be a cheap safe option.

I'm going to try a Lingenfelter GT9 in mine soon to smooth the idle and make it a bit nicer. Although the lift on it does concern me a little

SS-ROB

iTrader: (22)

If you plan on upgrading later down the road...(forged) Keep what you have and go with it for now!!! I have the T-Rex cam stock heads along with a D-1 @ 8psi. running with no problems.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Great Response!

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Thanks, that's what three cups of coffee will do to a person first thing in the morning. Bob

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

+1 for running the camshaft.

i went through something similar when i was procharged...loved it.

...but, if i was running a blower, i wouldn't run less then an 8-11 rib.

superman2002

Thanks for all you info it does have 114 lsa and i do like the cam sounds like it will work fine until i do the next upgrade which is heads and cam. Im also looking for a intake any suggestions?

SS-ROB

iTrader: (22)

if you are talking intake manifold??? use the one you have its an LS6 intake

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

My friend ran a Trex 242/248 110lsa in his full weight 04 GTO (LS1) with a D1SC. On about 10 lbs of boost the car ran a 10.7 @ 128 mph with a 6 speed. This was also done around 3500 DA @ 2500' elevation. Guys have ran what was said to be a custom blower cam with around 15-20 degrees of overlap and switched to a centrifugal blower cam done up by a professional cam guy and gained 60 hp. The new blower cam had around 40 degrees of overlap. Out of all applications a centrifugal supercharger benefits the most from big cams.