RPM, boost, and engine life
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From: Zanesfield, OH
RPM, boost, and engine life So a little background on my set up. I have a stock bottom end, EPS Cam, D1SC that makes a little under 10psi. I had the car tuned at IPS and they said that the IAT's looked really good and since the car was making good power they didn't get real aggressive with the tune, AFR averaged 11.3 witha min of 11.1 and max of 11.6.
The car made 594/533 on a dyno that supposedly reads 10%ish low compared to others in the area, I was told to be prepared for heart break numbers but instead my car produced really well.
Based on the research I have done I am on the high side of what is "safe" for boost and hp level on a stock bottom end. To aid this situation I have set my shift light at 5600rpm which results in a max boost level of about 8psi the aggread upon best max boost level for stock bottom end cars.
Now onto my question....
I am happy with the feeling even shifting early so wouldn't 8psi be easier on the engine at 5600rpm compared to the same boost level at redline? I could put a larger pulley on it but if this way is even safer I would like to keep the smaller pulley for a couple of reasons.
1) Boost comes in earlier at lower rpm compared to if it had a larger pulley thus is currently stronger in the midrange rpm than if I were to change the pulley.
2) If I do ever put meth on it I could probably run it to redline safely with the current pulley and still be safe on the engine????
So what do you think keep the current pulley and shift early? What are the cons I haven't thought of?
The car made 594/533 on a dyno that supposedly reads 10%ish low compared to others in the area, I was told to be prepared for heart break numbers but instead my car produced really well.
Based on the research I have done I am on the high side of what is "safe" for boost and hp level on a stock bottom end. To aid this situation I have set my shift light at 5600rpm which results in a max boost level of about 8psi the aggread upon best max boost level for stock bottom end cars.
Now onto my question....
I am happy with the feeling even shifting early so wouldn't 8psi be easier on the engine at 5600rpm compared to the same boost level at redline? I could put a larger pulley on it but if this way is even safer I would like to keep the smaller pulley for a couple of reasons.
1) Boost comes in earlier at lower rpm compared to if it had a larger pulley thus is currently stronger in the midrange rpm than if I were to change the pulley.
2) If I do ever put meth on it I could probably run it to redline safely with the current pulley and still be safe on the engine????
So what do you think keep the current pulley and shift early? What are the cons I haven't thought of?
Throw a meth kit on and shift that bitch at 6500. My buddies stock bottom end LS1 04 GTO had a Trex cam with a d1sc that was pullied to make 9-11 lbs of boost with 25 degrees of overlap. He had a meth kit and a single walbro, shifted around 7000 rpm with a 6 speed and ran @ 10.7 with his tank. I tuned his car and he beat the **** out of it with spray before he procharged it.
My personal car has seen well over 600 rwhp and 6600 rpm with 11:1 compression. Single walbro and meth, I have 128,000 miles on my car. It has hundreds of blast on it. Make sure your pcv system is setup properly to pull clean air from your air filter. My friends meth kit quit several times on his gto and the way I had the tune setup it never hurt the thing at all. Keep the timing low and the tune safe it will live.
My personal car has seen well over 600 rwhp and 6600 rpm with 11:1 compression. Single walbro and meth, I have 128,000 miles on my car. It has hundreds of blast on it. Make sure your pcv system is setup properly to pull clean air from your air filter. My friends meth kit quit several times on his gto and the way I had the tune setup it never hurt the thing at all. Keep the timing low and the tune safe it will live.
Last edited by Nitroused383; Jul 9, 2011 at 09:22 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Zanesfield, OH
Its a 226/234 .598/.612 114+3. I like it and think it is making pretty good power but I have never had a different cam in it for a comparison. I wish I had money and time for cam comparisons to get the best combo for me, that sounds like fun. Give Geoff a call he can help you get what you need for your combo. FYI email isn't the best form of communication for him but I have never had him not answer the phone, give him a call.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Zanesfield, OH
Throw a meth kit on and shift that bitch at 6500. My buddies stock bottom end LS1 04 GTO had a Trex cam with a d1sc that was pullied to make 9-11 lbs of boost with 25 degrees of overlap. He had a meth kit and a single walbro, shifted around 7000 rpm with a 6 speed and ran @ 10.7 with his tank. I tuned his car and he beat the **** out of it with spray before he procharged it.
My personal car has seen well over 600 rwhp and 6600 rpm with 11:1 compression. Single walbro and meth, I have 128,000 miles on my car. It has hundreds of blast on it. Make sure your pcv system is setup properly to pull clean air from your air filter. My friends meth kit quit several times on his gto and the way I had the tune setup it never hurt the thing at all. Keep the timing low and the tune safe it will live.
My personal car has seen well over 600 rwhp and 6600 rpm with 11:1 compression. Single walbro and meth, I have 128,000 miles on my car. It has hundreds of blast on it. Make sure your pcv system is setup properly to pull clean air from your air filter. My friends meth kit quit several times on his gto and the way I had the tune setup it never hurt the thing at all. Keep the timing low and the tune safe it will live.
FI is not a set it and forget maintenance free type of thing, welcom to the club of a pain in the *** car. If you can't handle something simple like adding methanol to your car than a FI car is probably not for you. It's no different than checking your oil, tire pressure, procharger oil, belts, coolant, gas etc... You should look into E85 if making sure your meth is full is too much of a hassle.
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I agree I do like the sound of putting meth on it and getting the full potential out of the set up. The main thing holding me back is I went FI so I didn't have to worry about the b.s. of making sure a bottle was full and now I will have to make sure the meth is full. From what I read I wont go through a lot of it so not as a big a deal as keeping a bottle full.
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I am surprised you can't find methanol. We have it in every auto parts store, canadian tire, walmart and hobby shop up here. Wish we could get e85. Do you have any shops around that sell RC cars or planes. They should have it.
Run meth. Its just like putting fuel in the car lol. Just check the tank when you fill up. You won't need to fill it as often as you think, it only comes on under boost. I ran my D1SC combo on my stock bottom end for 40K miles with no major issues. I think your fine with 10psi and a good tune. I would just add meth in there for a saftey. I'm pretty sure that's why my motor lasted. I pulled it out still running at that. I would just keep the Rpm around 6300 to be safe. I spun mine to 6700 before but for safety purposes I wouldn't go past 6300.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
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From: Zanesfield, OH
FI is not a set it and forget maintenance free type of thing, welcom to the club of a pain in the *** car. If you can't handle something simple like adding methanol to your car than a FI car is probably not for you. It's no different than checking your oil, tire pressure, procharger oil, belts, coolant, gas etc... You should look into E85 if making sure your meth is full is too much of a hassle.
Thread Starter
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From: Zanesfield, OH
Ya I hope to be able to buy 5 Gal at a time. I have a friend that can get it so that shouldn't be a problem. I would expect 5 Gal to last me all summer no more than I drive the car.
Thread Starter
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From: Zanesfield, OH
Run meth. Its just like putting fuel in the car lol. Just check the tank when you fill up. You won't need to fill it as often as you think, it only comes on under boost. I ran my D1SC combo on my stock bottom end for 40K miles with no major issues. I think your fine with 10psi and a good tune. I would just add meth in there for a saftey. I'm pretty sure that's why my motor lasted. I pulled it out still running at that. I would just keep the Rpm around 6300 to be safe. I spun mine to 6700 before but for safety purposes I wouldn't go past 6300.
I ran on a VERY conservative dyno and made 590/563. It out ran 630 wheel cobras so that's the proof I got on the "conservative" part lol You will see a little more power but more importantly the IAT's will go down helping to prevent detonation and the octane rating from the meth will help protect as well. I check my meth tank every time I fill up on gas. I run the cooling mist kit and love it! I have over 25 gallons through it with 0...NO issues at all. When I pulled the motor the bearings looked horrible but that was due to 2 oil pump failures. I shut the motor off pretty dam fast but no oil pressure = death lol. Don't expect the motor to last for ever but if the tune is right it will be ok. Like I said I ran 10psi for a long time and I was VERY hard on my car...it was also my DD. I just made sure my fuel system was overkill with no potential to lean out. Feel free to PM me if you have any other questions.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Zanesfield, OH
I ran on a VERY conservative dyno and made 590/563. It out ran 630 wheel cobras so that's the proof I got on the "conservative" part lol You will see a little more power but more importantly the IAT's will go down helping to prevent detonation and the octane rating from the meth will help protect as well. I check my meth tank every time I fill up on gas. I run the cooling mist kit and love it! I have over 25 gallons through it with 0...NO issues at all. When I pulled the motor the bearings looked horrible but that was due to 2 oil pump failures. I shut the motor off pretty dam fast but no oil pressure = death lol. Don't expect the motor to last for ever but if the tune is right it will be ok. Like I said I ran 10psi for a long time and I was VERY hard on my car...it was also my DD. I just made sure my fuel system was overkill with no potential to lean out. Feel free to PM me if you have any other questions.
The thing with meth is it allows more timing on pump gas, that is where the additional power comes from. On a stock bottom end engine I like to run the same timing and not push it as engine life is more important than getting the max hp out of it.
I run an Alky control kit and it is a great setup designed for an f-body if you want to use your windshield washer reservoir. If you're in a bind and can't find any methanol just look for any -20 to -30 windshield washer fluid that doesn't contain glycol (anti-freeze). Throw a couple bottles of heet in and it should be around 50/50 water meth. You can look up the MSDS (medical safety data sheets) for the different brands of washer fluid to determine what percentage of methanol they have in them. It's honestly no big deal at all to double check it.
I run an Alky control kit and it is a great setup designed for an f-body if you want to use your windshield washer reservoir. If you're in a bind and can't find any methanol just look for any -20 to -30 windshield washer fluid that doesn't contain glycol (anti-freeze). Throw a couple bottles of heet in and it should be around 50/50 water meth. You can look up the MSDS (medical safety data sheets) for the different brands of washer fluid to determine what percentage of methanol they have in them. It's honestly no big deal at all to double check it.
Hes right ^. Its material safety data sheet though lol. I run 100% meth but whatever mix your going to run, make sure its the same you get her tuned on. I was running 18* at WOT at 6500ish. You can run the low temp windshield washer concentrate as your meth mixture.
