Hmm, well first off what is the treadwear on them?

Honestly I'd look into a set of Hoosier QTP's, they are what Larry Larson runs on his "street" car that he wins drag week with every year and ran 7's with. He drove them in the rain, I wouldn't, he's a braver soul than me. They are a DOT slick that is pretty much a Hoosier Drag Radial with a Bias-Ply rubber compound, but offered in much wider sizes that you would need to keep that look you have on your car, and I'm assuming your wheels are 12"+ wide also.

 

they are fairly hard rubber, the rims are 15x14 not a lot of options for sticky street tires. some QTP's might just fit.

 

It runs. i started it to get my first heat cycle and drop the oil. PROBLEM! the passenger side head stud, outboard side is leaking water right up between the stud and nut. "it was leaking before i started it." the head stud holes are blind? right? I checked the exhaust manifold bolts and it is not leaking from them for sure it is the stud right in the middle. I will pull the manifold off and post a vid of it. im going to pull the valve covers and check the studs exposed to oil as well.

 

The head studs are supposed to be blind... is it possible that the block cracked when you torqued the studs? On my first LS1 head install I put thread sealer on the head bolts and cracked the block but it didn't leak...

It is possible that the studs were bottomed out in the holes.

Either cracked block or bad head gasket/warped head/bad deck on the block...

 

everything is brand new from the engine builder. well the block was a core before machining.

 

Do you have a bore-a-scope? You could pull that one stud with the rest torqued down and scope the hole to see where the water is coming from.

 

i will pull that stud tonight, the water jacket surrounds that hole so i guess it could be cracked or its seeping thru the head gasket. they are copper but it looks like they used sealer around the water jackets

 

It's time to call the engine builder.

 

On a separate note, who is doing the tuning? Where are you going to dyno the car?

 

I built the start up tune with efi live. mike at vengance is going to help me tune it. i might ask George at TTI if i can use his dyno.

 

Agreed!

 

CRAP. had a little water in the oil. was told to try the GM coolant pellets to see if it will seal. i will pick some up today and see what happens.

i was told they see it in about 1 out of 20 blocks that have the threads for the head bolts "studs" have been machined into the coolant area. so my block has two that leak. pass side middle outside the valve cover, drivers side middle inside the valve cover.

im a little freaked out but i will try what AES suggested.

 

I have used the Barr's block seal on a few different motors... worked well with no issues

 

Cool! they have the tablets that say "radiator seal" then the bottle of "block", head gasket seal" i wonder what i should pick?

Yes they did not seem to worried about it.

 

used the tablets, it sealed up in two min of running, Rock on! now it's time to build my down pipes.

 

Glad it worked. Time to make some noise!! Killer build

 

built my down pipes, used Borla stinger mufflers. sounds mean as hell. ordering the drive shaft, need some o2 extensions.

starting to get serious!

 

Gonna be nasty when it's going!

 

Hope to see it around someday!

 

you will, i like to drive it around,

been working on the base tune, finishing up all the plumbing for the intercooler, the driveshaft is 3.5 .083 tube 1350 solid joints. should handle just about anything,

played with the transbrake. stalled at 4500 and built 7 psi almost as soon as i hit the floor with the gas pedal, the waste gates are not hooked up till i get my Forge UNOS boost controller, it works well on my EVO IX. so i figured what the hell.

i might just take it out sunday for a maiden voyage of logging the computer.