Lowering IAT's
07-30-2011, 08:38 PM
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Lowering IAT's Im currently running a A2A setup on the car but my iats in this texas heat are any where from 120-145. I finally fixed my coolling issue with the car but even tho my ECT is reading around 200. I cant keep my iats down i have a 4'' charge pipe going to the throttle body coming from an ebay setup intercooler. I was thinking of running heat wrap around the charge pipe goin to the throttle body, but didnt knw if it would have much effect...
Any input? I can put meth on it if need be but i would like to see if i can get these temps lowered first becuase its pulling away too much timing
Any input? I can put meth on it if need be but i would like to see if i can get these temps lowered first becuase its pulling away too much timing
07-30-2011, 09:08 PM
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meth doesnt take temp out of the iat directly. Water does. I get 30-40 degrees lower then ambient, using 50/50....They need the meth as fuel since The 60lb inj are maced out along with the pumps.
On blower cars I ve gotten 90 to 100 degrees out..
On blower cars I ve gotten 90 to 100 degrees out..
07-31-2011, 02:46 PM
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I used left over heat wrap on my cold side and it made about a 15-20° difference. My iat's use to be around 140-145°. Now its around 125-130° under boost. Normal driving is around 105-115° in outside temps above 90°.
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08-02-2011, 02:28 PM
#11
08-03-2011, 06:40 AM
#14
i have often seen heat insulation used on the cold side pipework of race cars.
Chris.
08-03-2011, 10:18 PM
#15
Whoever says meth doesn't take heat out of the intake charge hasn't ever spilled it on their bare skin.
If anyone has some pure 100% m1 in their garage and thinks meth doesn't pull heat out and hasn't gotten some on their skin I suggest you try it and tell me it doesn't feel like someone spilled liquid nitrogen on your hand. It takes the heat from the outer layer of skin on the place it is spilled just like it pulls heat out of the intake tract.
Now it also does add tons of octane and extra fuel if your pumps are maxed out, but you will need to run your controller on a high setting and tune accordingly because you will be pig rich.
This is what I do on my car and how I was able to keep the 98 PCM. My car has one 255 in tank and one inline referenced by a 1:1 aeromotive regulator. Since the 98 PCM can only read around 400 something hz but the MAF can read way more, I use the Snow Kit that is referenced off the MAF so it adds enough methanol. The computer can only send enough fuel for 400hz which let's say is 450-500rwhp. I have a voltage booster which also helps a lot too and then I use the M1 to add the extra amount of fuel(octane) that I need to not detonate and run at a safe afr which is around 10.3:1-10.8:1 on my car right now to be safe and 14* timing.
Added: My car does not idle or run rich though, it is only tuned that way for boost and the timing is pulled accordingly. It idles at 14.5-15.7 when warm and 13.1-14.1 cold start. Crusing on the highway I'm constantly at 14.4-15.1 so I get pretty decent mileage.
If anyone has some pure 100% m1 in their garage and thinks meth doesn't pull heat out and hasn't gotten some on their skin I suggest you try it and tell me it doesn't feel like someone spilled liquid nitrogen on your hand. It takes the heat from the outer layer of skin on the place it is spilled just like it pulls heat out of the intake tract.
Now it also does add tons of octane and extra fuel if your pumps are maxed out, but you will need to run your controller on a high setting and tune accordingly because you will be pig rich.
This is what I do on my car and how I was able to keep the 98 PCM. My car has one 255 in tank and one inline referenced by a 1:1 aeromotive regulator. Since the 98 PCM can only read around 400 something hz but the MAF can read way more, I use the Snow Kit that is referenced off the MAF so it adds enough methanol. The computer can only send enough fuel for 400hz which let's say is 450-500rwhp. I have a voltage booster which also helps a lot too and then I use the M1 to add the extra amount of fuel(octane) that I need to not detonate and run at a safe afr which is around 10.3:1-10.8:1 on my car right now to be safe and 14* timing.
Added: My car does not idle or run rich though, it is only tuned that way for boost and the timing is pulled accordingly. It idles at 14.5-15.7 when warm and 13.1-14.1 cold start. Crusing on the highway I'm constantly at 14.4-15.1 so I get pretty decent mileage.
Last edited by Fbodyjunkie06; 08-03-2011 at 10:26 PM.
08-03-2011, 10:29 PM
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I use a 50/50 meth/water combo on my bimmer and it lowers the temps pretty substantially. If it make a difference in a small straight six, I'd imagine it would be better on an LSx.
08-03-2011, 11:35 PM
#17
Whoever says meth doesn't take heat out of the intake charge hasn't ever spilled it on their bare skin.
If anyone has some pure 100% m1 in their garage and thinks meth doesn't pull heat out and hasn't gotten some on their skin I suggest you try it and tell me it doesn't feel like someone spilled liquid nitrogen on your hand. It takes the heat from the outer layer of skin on the place it is spilled just like it pulls heat out of the intake tract.
Now it also does add tons of octane and extra fuel if your pumps are maxed out, but you will need to run your controller on a high setting and tune accordingly because you will be pig rich.
This is what I do on my car and how I was able to keep the 98 PCM. My car has one 255 in tank and one inline referenced by a 1:1 aeromotive regulator. Since the 98 PCM can only read around 400 something hz but the MAF can read way more, I use the Snow Kit that is referenced off the MAF so it adds enough methanol. The computer can only send enough fuel for 400hz which let's say is 450-500rwhp. I have a voltage booster which also helps a lot too and then I use the M1 to add the extra amount of fuel(octane) that I need to not detonate and run at a safe afr which is around 10.3:1-10.8:1 on my car right now to be safe and 14* timing.
Added: My car does not idle or run rich though, it is only tuned that way for boost and the timing is pulled accordingly. It idles at 14.5-15.7 when warm and 13.1-14.1 cold start. Crusing on the highway I'm constantly at 14.4-15.1 so I get pretty decent mileage.
If anyone has some pure 100% m1 in their garage and thinks meth doesn't pull heat out and hasn't gotten some on their skin I suggest you try it and tell me it doesn't feel like someone spilled liquid nitrogen on your hand. It takes the heat from the outer layer of skin on the place it is spilled just like it pulls heat out of the intake tract.
Now it also does add tons of octane and extra fuel if your pumps are maxed out, but you will need to run your controller on a high setting and tune accordingly because you will be pig rich.
This is what I do on my car and how I was able to keep the 98 PCM. My car has one 255 in tank and one inline referenced by a 1:1 aeromotive regulator. Since the 98 PCM can only read around 400 something hz but the MAF can read way more, I use the Snow Kit that is referenced off the MAF so it adds enough methanol. The computer can only send enough fuel for 400hz which let's say is 450-500rwhp. I have a voltage booster which also helps a lot too and then I use the M1 to add the extra amount of fuel(octane) that I need to not detonate and run at a safe afr which is around 10.3:1-10.8:1 on my car right now to be safe and 14* timing.
Added: My car does not idle or run rich though, it is only tuned that way for boost and the timing is pulled accordingly. It idles at 14.5-15.7 when warm and 13.1-14.1 cold start. Crusing on the highway I'm constantly at 14.4-15.1 so I get pretty decent mileage.
08-03-2011, 11:53 PM
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You should be able to run more timing then that. Mine is setup to adjust via the IAT and ECT temps. So when it's cold out it will be 18 timing, but when it's really hot out I'm only at 9 - 11, it seems to work out well and still on 93 with no meth. It basically runs a lot of timing in first and second gear then starts pulling it all back out when I hit 3rd gear.
