hey nitrous383 i cant really read what you have for filter string under the histogram on the first pic

 

heres my last log but i still think my wideband is off by at least .2 how can i adjust the volatage the sensor is reading? should i change the 10 to like a 9.8 on the function?

anyways let me knw wat you guys think on to why i have 4* of knock up top

 

I just noticed the histogram isnt going to 3bar its only going to 105kpa on both configs? what do i neeed to change this to 3bar as well

 

Load the config I sent you into your scanner. Connect the scanner to your car with your engine off and the key in the run position. Hit the spacebar after your are connected and let the scanner load all the parameters. Now close the connection and discard the log it just recorded. You should now be able to insert a 3 Bar PID in your table display. Search through the entire list it will be in there and delete any other non 3 bar map sensor PID's you have in the table display.

Now setup your custom wideband PID's and your AFR error % PID. Go to histograms and select histogram settings which is to the right of #12. Select #7 and where it says PID click that and insert your User defined AFR error % PID. Do the same for #8 and make sure when you exit out you commit the changes.

Here is a video you should watch on using the copy / paste autotune features http://www.thetuningdoctor.com/HPTun.../copypaste.swf

 

Yeah, too rich would make it knock. I noticed you didnt scale the injectors the way I reccomended, the values youre using increase the amount of fuel with map along with you boost referenced FPR. That will make it pig rich, you need to go with the values I gave you, if it idles rich with that injector data you can play with the voltage offset table to lean it out.

You REALLY, need to gap those plugs, thats VERY important on any power adder setup. How much boost is it making?

 

around 16psi, what should i gap them at and i will adjust my injector data to all the same like u recommended

 

Id say about .023"

 

ok im changing the plugs soon anyways ill be sure to gap them at that. Do you have any recomendation for what to put for the function AFR Err %. the pic that 383nitrous posted has the function but i cant make out what it says

 

Just PM me your e-mail and I'll send you my 3 bar config, I run a FAST MAP sensor also. I have some custom histograms you might like, & a Boost PID that I know you'll like. The only thing you might wanna do is delete my fuel pressure PID that I log & change the wideband out, I use an Innovate LM1.

 

BR7EF's come gapped around .022-.024" from the factory. The AFR error % function is
100*((([PID.2811]/.5)+10)-[SENS.121])/[SENS.121]

Which is what I posted earlier. If you're talking about the histogram filter for #7 and 8 those were already setup in the config I sent. Those were to only collect data above 2% tps on #7 and below 2% tps on #8. [SENS.90]>2% and [SENS.90]<2%

 

I would never trust the gap on a plug right out of the box, its free insurance to check them first. I'd also double check the plug number, have a friend with an outlaw drag radial car, we were changing the plugs before a race & we found 1 plug to be packaged wrong. It was 1 heat range hotter but the box had the correct # on it. He only knew to look for it because the same thing happened to a friend and it cost him a motor.

 

im switching to an 8 plug instead of my br7efs i think this may have something to do with a little of the knock as well. i forgot the NGK #8 plug that i use to run. Anyone have a part number?

 

Your only running 16# right? An 8 is a pretty cool plug.

 

my turbo and the six speed were good i ran the 8 plug when i went th400 i used a 7 but now i just got my old plugs that i use to run NGK 7317 its an 8 and ive always had good luck with them.

 

my only concern is the tip is protruted (sp?) it comes out and you actually see the porcelain. but on the BR7EF its inside, which i heard is safer for n20/boost :/

 

i put in the 8's spark plugs. and i took it out for a spin, needless to say i still have 4 deg of KR all over WOT. 12* of timing 93 pump gas on 16 psi. please someone help me before i light this ****** on fire

 

The way your knock sensors go off appears you have some wiring issues or bad knock sensors. I noticed in one of your other logs you were getting 4 degrees of knock @ part throttle with out any boost. When they always pull the max timing it means something is up and the uniform blocks confirm that.

 

Have a look at your sensor harness . Common problem that they break down.

 

light that piece of **** on fire i would have done that right after you took it to denton that night....... red firechicken=sllloowwwww poookkkkkkkkeeeeee!!!!!!!!

 

It was a bad knock sensor.