STS Turbo on built 383
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From: Pinellas Park Florida
STS Turbo on built 383 So im just about finished with my new turbo build. Its consists of of
Forged 383 9.5.1
Le2 heads patriot springs
Comp 306 camshaft on 1.6 rr
Ported intake with 58mm TB
60lb injectors
Canton pan with oil return
Selling pump with high pressure spring
long tube headers wrapped twice with y pipe and entire exhaust wrapped
T67 turbo with 38mmless WG
3 piping all the way to intercooler and to TB.
MAF
electronic boost controller
Built tranny
4.10 rear with tru track and moser axles
Im going to run 7-10 psi to start what kinda numbers might I put down?
Also if anyone else is running a sts system or rear mount does your air filter tube go into the turbo at a slight angle? I can not get mine to be level at all. Anyway Thanks
Forged 383 9.5.1
Le2 heads patriot springs
Comp 306 camshaft on 1.6 rr
Ported intake with 58mm TB
60lb injectors
Canton pan with oil return
Selling pump with high pressure spring
long tube headers wrapped twice with y pipe and entire exhaust wrapped
T67 turbo with 38mmless WG
3 piping all the way to intercooler and to TB.
MAF
electronic boost controller
Built tranny
4.10 rear with tru track and moser axles
Im going to run 7-10 psi to start what kinda numbers might I put down?
Also if anyone else is running a sts system or rear mount does your air filter tube go into the turbo at a slight angle? I can not get mine to be level at all. Anyway Thanks
id recommend a little bigger turbo if your goals are with a 383 and such boot friendly low compression. IF its forged you can turn it up to 10+ PSI. and make some decent power. A bigger turbo will make better top end power. YOu will have plenty down low with the 383. Your TQ will get you out the hole without even boosting. The T67 will flow ok but I feel with your setup you will choke the engine up top and limit your potentil. Id recommend At least a T70 or T72 with a .81 AR or .84. Hell, a .96 AR would really flow, but lag would start to be an issue unless you get a spool valve.
Also, a 40mm Wastegate might be alittle better too.
Your gonna catch hell on the LTH from Zombie lol but at least your wrapping them lol I know the LT maifolds dont flow as well as LS manifolds so the LT's probalby are helpping you. If anything shortys wrapped would be more benificial..
YOu got a good start Cant wait to see some pics
Im doing a similar thing with my car. its an LS though.
Also, a 40mm Wastegate might be alittle better too.
Your gonna catch hell on the LTH from Zombie lol but at least your wrapping them lol I know the LT maifolds dont flow as well as LS manifolds so the LT's probalby are helpping you. If anything shortys wrapped would be more benificial..
YOu got a good start Cant wait to see some pics
Im doing a similar thing with my car. its an LS though. Thread Starter
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My t 67 has a .98 exhaust and I have been looking into a spool valve. Im keeping boost low until I feel the tune is spot on. As for the LTH im pretty sure if done correctly they will hold heat and flow better them cast. Double wrap and my goal is to have the turbo blanket as well.
AS for the 40mm vs the 38 I plan on a bigger turbo and have read that a smaller WG for a bigger turbo is better for higher boost. And a bigger WG for low boost applications. So im hoping the 38car wont creep open on my later down the road.
But im still woundeeing what kind of numbers I might make on 5-7the psi
AS for the 40mm vs the 38 I plan on a bigger turbo and have read that a smaller WG for a bigger turbo is better for higher boost. And a bigger WG for low boost applications. So im hoping the 38car wont creep open on my later down the road.
But im still woundeeing what kind of numbers I might make on 5-7the psi
i think you'll want to swap out the 4.10 gears for something around 3.42... your t67 will be fine. air filter straight off the turbo or with a 90*pipe will be fine either way too
i'm running a t67/.81 on a 385cu.in. LT1 with stock exhaust / intake manifolds and stock TB. 3.42 gears, 42lb. injectors.. dyno'ed at 510/570 on a 4200'utah tune. now with a sea level tune i'm guessing 520-530rear wheel/ 600torque ... the build kit i went with: http://leperformance.com/lepstsrearmountturbo.aspx
i'm running a t67/.81 on a 385cu.in. LT1 with stock exhaust / intake manifolds and stock TB. 3.42 gears, 42lb. injectors.. dyno'ed at 510/570 on a 4200'utah tune. now with a sea level tune i'm guessing 520-530rear wheel/ 600torque ... the build kit i went with: http://leperformance.com/lepstsrearmountturbo.aspx
Last edited by hawk584; Nov 27, 2011 at 10:19 AM.
if you go to garrett turbo website and read all through the Turbo Tech 101, 102..and advanced, make yourself an excel sheet for calculating the flywheel HP and go at it, you will realize how quickly things add up. I maxed out a 60mm turbo on my old setup @63LB/min of air and made 450HP and it wouldn't make any more no matter what.
injectors...those 60# will be ok if you stick to 10psi...more and those will not be enough @ a safe AFR in the high rpms. I have 69# (43.5psi rated) injectors and at my fuel pressure (58psi) they are 79#; and peak they were running 71% duty cycle.
I'm running a 370 now, and I have a turbonetics ball bearing 76mm unit, right now the TC, but I'm going to go to the full size T series housing. I made 650 and 680 on a 346 with a 2 bar setup @ 11 AFR with 13 LBS.
**those 60LB injectors will be fine with the turbo you currently have though.
that 4.10 rearend is not going to help turbo spool.
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From: freehold nj
ooo i'm glad to see a new thread about a rear mount.. i'm putting pacesetter short lengths on mine (383 ls1) and probably their y pipe to solve my problem of stalling on decel. my current setup with the stock seems to be choking me out.(after my y pipe i have the 3" pipe left over from my borla cat back. here is something i'm pondering..i stepped up from a sts 67mm to a sts 76mm both having a .81ar. i usually hit 0 vacuum around 3k rpm and i'll make 14psi by 4k. i want to lower the rpm my boost comes in at. precision offers quite a few options for their turbos in the 800+hp range. think i can get away with a .68ar? 6500rpm is the max i'm running the motor to
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Well I m starting with the t67 to male sure everything goes good on this new motor. Once I feel that everything is good I plan on swapping the t67 for 76 or maybe an 88. Im also thinking a quick spool with give me the best of both worlds when it comes to the 4.10 rear. I will have a 2 step and a quick spool. That should cover spooling the turbo up real nice and quick correct?
As for my injectors, 60 is what im using now until the turbo swap. Then I will be going with something bigger like 86 or so. Right now my FP is 60 with the 60lb injectors but not sure of the duty cycle yet.
As for my injectors, 60 is what im using now until the turbo swap. Then I will be going with something bigger like 86 or so. Right now my FP is 60 with the 60lb injectors but not sure of the duty cycle yet.
how many fuel pumps do you have?
that 4.10 rear is not intended for turbo cars.... you will run through your first 2 gears and I bet you won't build much boost. The rear end gear changes the impact of the load on the motor and hence the turbo...i'm sure someone can explain that better but thats the most general i can come up with.
I went from 3.73 to 3.42 and noticed a pretty large gap between my spool times and boost building. I almost wanted to go with a 3.23...but i have fun with mine and drive it frequently
that 4.10 rear is not intended for turbo cars.... you will run through your first 2 gears and I bet you won't build much boost. The rear end gear changes the impact of the load on the motor and hence the turbo...i'm sure someone can explain that better but thats the most general i can come up with.
I went from 3.73 to 3.42 and noticed a pretty large gap between my spool times and boost building. I almost wanted to go with a 3.23...but i have fun with mine and drive it frequently
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Im running duel walbros, I understand gear ratios and how they work differently on NA nitrous and FI cars. My car use to be a nitrous monster and loved the 4.10 gears. I figured I would try a few things like the spool valve and a 2 step to build boost. If that don't work out swap to the 3.42 rear I have out back. I also have a 2.73 rear and a 3.23 rear I think as well. I guess ill see
I've gone from long tubes/ory wrapped 2x back to 2002 manifolds with bassoni ory (rest of system also wrapped), and the spool difference is substantial ... close to 1000 rpm without hurting the topend. I wont be ever going back to LTs. Also, the SP spool valve cracks at 5psi and opens fully at 15psi ... while it can be adjusted to some degree by changing the length of the wastegate arm, it will not work well running only 5-7 psi.
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Sounds like im going to be swapping the rear for the 2.73 rear. And I have been thinking of re installing my factory manifolds and y pipe and maybe even coating them.
