weight of car will not affect the tyre shake... wheel speed will
leave your heads dry...
tune to a slightly rich plug colour.. i can send you a high definition photo of what to look for
BTW u will not require 1000 hp @ 1600 lbs to run a 6sec pass either

ive answered these questions before..
but here goes
- nice forged crank, well balanced
- 4340 conrods, L19 or arp2000 bolts... good quality piston, and real good wrist pins of .220' or better thickness and H11 grade minium.
- pick any comp ratio from 8- 10:1 what ever i comes out at... who cares, just tune around it
-9.5 PTC converter, with loose lower rpm and what thosee boys do from AL, is make it lock up good up high in rpm..
- 1.65 or 1.69 low gear in the glide ( my oem 1.76 lasted 100+ passes @ 1920 lbs and many 6 second passes..but the lower gear works better..)
- pick an ignition system that has programable ignition control, and at least 1 12v output based on time or rpm
- pick a cam , to work up to 7500 rpm
- put some real nice valve springs in it... more the better here ( i run 400+ lb on the seat now..)
- ferreo 6000 series valves minium, maybe comp plus ?
- leave the heads unported to save $$$ and weight meat.
- i had some little cast iron heads, oem 23 deg stuff. 882 part#. they cost me $20 from the junk yard.
oem 1.9 intake valve, 1.5 exhaust valve, 160ish cc intake runner , flat tappet cam, 237/237 @ 114 , .509 total lift
that junk pile went 1000+ hp on 355 cubes, with methanol and twin 57mm turbos ...... AND 7.2's @ 191 in my 1935 lbs altered... all under 6600 rpm
i think your gear is way better than this engine, and your way lighter too..
anyway..
- up to 400 cubes , pick a pair of 66- 72 mm turbos, T4 flange... thats **** loads of air
if you havn't got the turbos yet, one of Travis Quillens customers have a pair of PTE 6262's for sale ,that went 1447 hp in 347 ttsbf.. sooo we can point you in the right direction there...
Dr Turbo always has a good deal on some of those TC units........ ive run the TC 72's @ 36 psi in twins before.. they whisle up good

bolt that baby together.... and hook in

 

I hate to keep posting this link but its worthy of posting here. This mustang ran 8.98 @ 147 at 3400lbs. My power calculator says 1046 flyweel horse power. Its a stock lq4 with a z06 cam, springs, hardened pushrods on e85. No block fill no rod bolts or regap on the rings. Oh it has LS9 head gaskets and arp head bolts. Stock 317 heads. If what we have learned is true your almost 2000 lbs lighter there is your 6 second pass.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hK4CvhKUqvY

As for a turned crank its no big deal. Back in the mid 90's we bought a 331 ford motor from Ronny Crawford that had a stock boss 302 crank offset gound to 3.250 stroke and it had yates heads and a sheet metal intake and twin carbs. It was made to go 9500 rpm with an offset ground crank. All you need to turn is 6500 or 6800 rpm to make that kind of power with this motor and turbos.

 

other than the fact that its a mustang, that thing is cool! i like to see people push the boundries of stock stuff. it has been proven several times that 317 heads are a good bang for the buck. it makes me mad when people, with no first hand experience, just jump on the bandwagon of stock heads have to thin of a deck, or they will lift no matter what. don't get me started on the whole l92 thing. i have seen an l92 head cut in half. the deck is just as thick or thicker than any other stock head, but somewhere along the line, a guy pushed water with them and blamed the head instead of the tune. now the internet is full of people that advise against the use of l92 heads for boost. these same people ,mind you, have never even seen an l92 head in person. sorry for the rant, but this bugs me.

 

I think it can be done with the LS2 block half filled on the stock crank. The weight helps get it there quicker but it also helps to keep the motor alive with the reduced load. Make sure to use ARP main studs. My stock crank 1000ish rwhp setup ended up failing when the crank walked on me. But my raceweight is/was 3850 ish.

 

Maybe nobody answered your question because there was like 5 questions in one really random post. 3 or 4 times all you asked about was turning the crank. Maybe nobody answered you question because nobody reading this works at a machined shop and we have no idea the difference between the two cranks. Why don't you ask a machine shop owner who has a lot of performance LS experience. I thought it was a silly question because the amount of heavy metal is more dependent on the rotating assembly than the crank anyway. What I do know is I have not heard of many crank failures especially with truck cranks. Like I said before machining a crank does not always make it weaker esp. if you just turning it .010.

 

^^^
what he said..
but just make sure your machne guy uses a correctly ground stone, to get the radius clean and smooth, and correct radius
thats where all the strenght it

 

hey cobrakiller, i get what you are saying about the studs. i do have arp main studs that are custom length for my dm performance main girdle. that girdle is a nice piece. i am thinking along the same lines about the lightness of my setup being easier on parts.