JUST REALISED THIS WAS A LS1 AREA IF THIS CAN NOT BE HERE PLEASE REMOVE. it was just the only forced induction area of the sight and i dident pay any attention


I just had some questions regarding boost and compression( probably beat to death and I’m sorry but I just cant find any awncer that no one argues with). so ile start off saying this will be street driven with a few runs to the track. Also I am not looking for some monster 1000 hp car just trying to get a nice 10 or low 11 car. 475 hp(rwhp) 3500 ish lbs =11.35 ish so its around my figures but like always more power =more fun lol and that’s with a perfect driver and blah blah blah.

I am looking into buying a car on here and I like the car but I am kind of concerned about the build. he said the rings where gapped to be sprayed( is the gap the same for boost? i dont quite understand how rings are gapped or diffrence between boost and n20 gaps) but he said that he has a v2 supercharger he was going to sell with the car and it should be able to handle the boost( but I believe compression is to high 11.5:1). the mod list is as follows.

383 LT1 out of 94 camaro. It has Je pistons, scat crank,H beam rods, arp main studs and rod bolts. Comp cam, advanced induction heads, bowtie roller rockers,screw in studs,arp head studs copper head gasket,gm performance intake 750 Holley. said it made 475 hp to the rear wheels all motor(through a th-350 trans 3.42 gears). that’s the first thing that threw me off because I was like man for a motor to be boosted it seemed like alot of n/a hp.

i will be removing the intake and 750 and putting it back to efi( right now its carbed). I asked and he said he believes the compression is 11.5:1 which seems very high for something that I would boost but I am also not from the LS/LT world so I have no clue if that is to high or it would be ok.( more from the tunner area now stepping it up into a boosted v8 hopefully soon... but low compression and 30lbs is always what I knew lol no power until u where spooled up.. seems to be v8s are a lot different)

now if the compression is to high what would you recommend doing to drop the compression that could still keep me in a descent budget? new heads( any cheap heads that will drop it while still being efficient)?

if the compression stays the same what kind of boost levels would I be able to run without compromising reliability? and is the rotating assembly well built for boost( obviously not the dish on the piston) but I mean as far as handling power do you think there are things I should change or should this give me around 630-700 whp reliably or what should I change. I don’t know if the rods are good for tinsel str.( higher rpm) or compression( more boost) same for the rest of the rotating assembly.


Thanks a lot to everyone who posts and try’s to help out and trust me ive been searching using Google for the past hour or so trying to reassure my self that it will work but some people say yes and others say no way so I am confused and hopefully I get some good information on here.

Thanks a lot NICK