stevieturbo

There is no comparison between an auto launching and a manual.

Autos just gain traction so much easier than a manual.

Ive seen big huge bog standard Mercedes automatics pull 1.8 60fts on totally standard road tyres on an airfield. Which again offers little grip.

Manual cars would be lucky pulling 2.2s on the same surface with the same tyres in a similar weight car with similar power.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

Only reason I compared is because he said he was hooking. I know they are 2 complete different animals.

stevieturbo

Yes, but trying to match an auto's 60ft times with a manual, will be incredibly difficult. With auto's there is virtually no impact on the tyres.
The only way you'd even come close with a manual is with controlled slip......ie top fuel kind of stuff.

But that isnt exactly an option.

He may be able to gain some time through other means. But IMO he simply does not have enough power
Making more power would be the easiest, the cheapest and the most productive option.

Reducing weight is another, but IMO that's far more work than simply making more power

ren987

iTrader: (4)

First off your car is doing well for drag radials and full weight, there are alot of improvements to be made though.

I would start by, getting a little better gear ratio something around a 4.10 or 3.90, it will make your clutch do much less work on the 60ft.

If you don't already have them get some DA shocks front and rear if you cant afford them get DA's for the rear and SA's for the front

ditch the radials and get a set of 28x10.5's stiff side walls,

The above mods will net you much better 60ft times and more consistent, Radials just dont recover near as well as a full slick

also my m6 went 10.06 @ 136 so you better hope the cut out picked you up some more mph because you will need some more hp to make a 9.9x

stevieturbo

Surely that's going to require 5 gears over the 1/4 though ?

ren987

iTrader: (4)

I am crossing the line at 136 with 4.30's and 28's @ around 7k so 4.10's or 3.90's would be a bit easier on the rpm's

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I've got the 2 step set to pull circa 5* of timing. It's still a 98 MAF car with the stock MAP sensor, so there is no "timing vs. boost" to speak of unfortunately.

I have to agree with StevieTurbo though as far as auto vs. stick turbo cars.Your drivetrain is already loaded just by having your foot on the gas and the brake. I'm shocking the drivetrain everytime I launch, and theres a fine line between hook and spin for an M6, let alone an M6 turbo car. It's also significantly easier to build boost with an auto per what I've already stated. If I dip into the 1.4x times, I would be rather impressed. I think the fact that my DR's are so huge is what's helping me thus far, 295/50/16 DR's.

Thanks for the input. I've got adjustable KYB's in the front and rear, not ideal for launching, I know. I am sure there is room for improvement there, possibly even with adjusting the rear shocks as the fronts are full loose. Losing the sway bar should help transfer the weight as well. I've also been thinking about changing to slicks as well. I can't launch on the street at all with the 2 step with out blowing the drag radials off. We shall see in a few weeks if there is any power difference with the cutout open and a few more minor changes I am doing. My hope is that all of the small things will add up to a big difference.

stevieturbo

Sounds like your ecu is compromised and not allowing you to run max effort ? ie...its old lol

While it could be considered extreme. A decent aftermarket ecu will allow very easy fine tuning for all circumstances.
It can employ various boost control strategies ( boost by gear, speed, whatever ), it will allow you to build enough boost on the line to blow everything to bits quite easily without having to buy silly add on bits.

Or an easier upgrade would be a newer ecu that allows you to run speed density. Although it wont offer any benefit for the other aspects.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

True, but I'm fairly confident that the majority of people on here don't launch on full boost, even alot of the auto guys. Honestly, I haven't focused much on how much boost it builds at the line, more on RPM and whether or not I have traction when it leaves. I'll have to play more with the 2 step rpm, timing retarded, and ramp rate to see what works and what doesn't and how much boost it leaves on.

stevieturbo

Another aspect of of a decent ecu, and maybe your OEM ecu can do some of it, is datalogging.

Hook up some wheel speed sensors front and rear and you can see exactly what's happening during the launch, racing, whenever. Whether it grips, spins, rpm, boost, throttle etc etc

ren987

iTrader: (4)

Thos KYB's are no good for drag racing. If you want to consistently have better 60's you really need better shocks. If is important with any vehicle, especially clutch cars that dont have the ability to control the initial hit of the clutch.

thats the nice way of saying sell the the kyb's and buy good shocks

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

id say you are pretty tapped out at @8# boost

if you have a built engine there is no reason to not DOUBLE that, hell if you have a stock engine you could double it (with a bit of luck!)

but i'm more a fan of measurable gains..... lets triple it.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Better shock will certainly help......the kybs happen to be cheap when I got them lol. We're gonna see if they'll lift the front wheels

As to upping the boost, let's not get carried away with tripling the boost I am all about efficiency which is why I think the setup has done as well as it has, but a little more boost should only raise the island efficiency of the turbo since it's not breathing hard yet. I'm working on a couple more tweaks to help make it more efficient as well as I'm still on pump gas. Hopefully all goes well! I'll post up dyne results in a couple weeks with video. Thanks for all the info.

ren987

iTrader: (4)

I don't understand why you asked how to lower your e.t.'s if you are unwilling to try anything suggested? a better 60ft is the foundation for improved e.t.'s.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Im not against swapping shocks. Im simply curious if the KYB's have the ability to go any faster.

Tally TransAm

iTrader: (17)

they might be able to go faster, but either way your going to need to take a ton of weight out or up the power. even if you got the 60's into the 1.40 range, your still going to be about 3 tenths shy and 132 mph is going to be tough to go 9's in a manual.

for example sake, I cut pretty consistent 1.51-1.52 and run 10.4's @ 133 on 10#'s at 575 rwhp and 3450 raceweight. As it sits its not going any faster. My plan for 9's is rear drag bar, DA rear shocks to replace the **** comp eng ones back there now to get the 60's in the 1.45 range, and about 40-50 more hp in one way or another.

IT_SS

iTrader: (5)

you're only running 8 lbs on a 383? Why don't you want to turn the boost up?

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Never felt the need. Pretty much waxes anything I've come across lol

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

You never felt the need? You obviously have otherwise you wouldnt have created this post

If you are launching off a 2 step at 8psi and are hooking fine... Why would you even think of doing anything to the suspension? It works fine. Its down to physics... YOU NEED MORE POWER PER WEIGHT. The answer is simple....Either turn up the power... or start gutting the thing. No other way around it.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Fine....never felt the need until i realized 9's were even remotely achieveable

Did you read my posts? I said that it hooks at 4k but blows the tires off at 4500. And I also don't know how much boost its leaving on. I would guess maybe 1-2 psi MAYBE. I've already made a change to my front mount that has made a noticible difference in IAT's and cost me $20 in tools and saves me weight. We're gonna start with a retune on the 20th and go from there. I plan to post up some vids and pics of the difference in the retune. Remember I've only dyno'd a best of 600/600 so hopefully that numbers goes north