post up picts.of turbo motor bays!
Thanks man! 
I don't know yet, I don't have a hood for it, lol. I'm thinking about going with the VFN 4" sloped hood since I can't get a hold of Joe Van to get one of his.
Thanks You don't need two, but just to be on the safe side I ran 2. A few of my friends run 2 of them as well, so I figured it couldn't hurt, I get them super cheap too so it's just added insurance.
Hi ram, and yes 4" aluminum downpipes dumped straight down. The hotside from the manifolds is 2.5" 304 stainless pipe.
You don't need two, but just to be on the safe side I ran 2. A few of my friends run 2 of them as well, so I figured it couldn't hurt, I get them super cheap too so it's just added insurance. 
[QUOTE=westtexasbuff;17279961]Thanks man!
I don't know yet, I don't have a hood for it, lol. I'm thinking about going with the VFN 4" sloped hood since I can't get a hold of Joe Van to get one of his.
Thanks You don't need two, but just to be on the safe side I ran 2. A few of my friends run 2 of them as well, so I figured it couldn't hurt, I get them super cheap too so it's just added insurance.
Hi ram, and yes 4" aluminum downpipes dumped straight down. The hotside from the manifolds is 2.5" 304 stainless pipe.
I do admire your vision to go outside of the box. however I do think the alum. down pipe is a bad idea full boost pulls you will be melting your down pipes!. your stainless welding needs some help as well. please do not take this the wrong way I am not bashing your work just trying to help. if you purge the stainless with a gas such as argon,co2, or a tri mix it will prevent sugaring of the welds on the inside. also turn your heat down you are running to hot. keep in mind any piece of the sugar that brakes off is taking your turbo out! and if you took a die grinder to it you found out it is hard as a rock! you are doing a great job doing the turbo system just need to slow down a bit and keep in mind fitment is key to clean welds! tig stainless with low heat. Alum. if thick walled pipe purged welded with a gap in it so it is full penetration and no mufflers living life 1/4 at a time you might have a chance. again just trying to help not trying to bash! keep up the great work and keep posting!
alum. requires a ton of amperage also a teflon liner for your gun as well as a argon gas for a shielding gas. you are better off just match marking your pieces then bringing them to a welding shop having them tack them. go bring them home test fit everything then everything is ok. bring the first half of your piping back have them weld it . bring it home again test fit make adjustments to the rest of your pieces have them re tack again then have them weld the rest up. welding moves and pulls things around if you have them weld everything up at once i IT WILL CHANGE ! just trying to help I have alot of experience welding and patience is a virtue! fitment is key to any good weld!
I don't know yet, I don't have a hood for it, lol. I'm thinking about going with the VFN 4" sloped hood since I can't get a hold of Joe Van to get one of his.
Thanks
You don't need two, but just to be on the safe side I ran 2. A few of my friends run 2 of them as well, so I figured it couldn't hurt, I get them super cheap too so it's just added insurance.Hi ram, and yes 4" aluminum downpipes dumped straight down. The hotside from the manifolds is 2.5" 304 stainless pipe.
I do admire your vision to go outside of the box. however I do think the alum. down pipe is a bad idea full boost pulls you will be melting your down pipes!. your stainless welding needs some help as well. please do not take this the wrong way I am not bashing your work just trying to help. if you purge the stainless with a gas such as argon,co2, or a tri mix it will prevent sugaring of the welds on the inside. also turn your heat down you are running to hot. keep in mind any piece of the sugar that brakes off is taking your turbo out! and if you took a die grinder to it you found out it is hard as a rock! you are doing a great job doing the turbo system just need to slow down a bit and keep in mind fitment is key to clean welds! tig stainless with low heat. Alum. if thick walled pipe purged welded with a gap in it so it is full penetration and no mufflers living life 1/4 at a time you might have a chance. again just trying to help not trying to bash! keep up the great work and keep posting!
alum. requires a ton of amperage also a teflon liner for your gun as well as a argon gas for a shielding gas. you are better off just match marking your pieces then bringing them to a welding shop having them tack them. go bring them home test fit everything then everything is ok. bring the first half of your piping back have them weld it . bring it home again test fit make adjustments to the rest of your pieces have them re tack again then have them weld the rest up. welding moves and pulls things around if you have them weld everything up at once i IT WILL CHANGE ! just trying to help I have alot of experience welding and patience is a virtue! fitment is key to any good weld!
I do admire your vision to go outside of the box. however I do think the alum. down pipe is a bad idea full boost pulls you will be melting your down pipes!. your stainless welding needs some help as well. please do not take this the wrong way I am not bashing your work just trying to help. if you purge the stainless with a gas such as argon,co2, or a tri mix it will prevent sugaring of the welds on the inside. also turn your heat down you are running to hot. keep in mind any piece of the sugar that brakes off is taking your turbo out! and if you took a die grinder to it you found out it is hard as a rock! you are doing a great job doing the turbo system just need to slow down a bit and keep in mind fitment is key to clean welds! tig stainless with low heat. Alum. if thick walled pipe purged welded with a gap in it so it is full penetration and no mufflers living life 1/4 at a time you might have a chance. again just trying to help not trying to bash! keep up the great work and keep posting!
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From: Detroit, MI - Camp Pendleton, CA
370 Iron block, Wiseco pistons, Callies rods, ETP Heads with roller rockers, GT4788 turbo and shaved bay in a 93' S13 240sx. All work done by my hands. Looking for high 900-1,000hp...
