Camaro X275 build
Well as you can see in the video I wrecked the T/A at the shootout in Indy last October.
I could have fixed it but the car had an 8.50 cert and I needed more cage so it was not worth it to put the money into it. I knew by the time I straightened the frame and all the body work I could get a new roller for the same cost.
I could have fixed it but the car had an 8.50 cert and I needed more cage so it was not worth it to put the money into it. I knew by the time I straightened the frame and all the body work I could get a new roller for the same cost.
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I use the stock shifter that I re-gated for my powerglide. Now that I am not using the stock PCM I needed a neutral safety switch. This switch just grounds the relay for the started trigger so there is no real voltage going through it.
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Moving on to the rest of the wiring. I bought a ten relay board to manage most of the controls that I mounted in my glove box. I also have a roll bar mounted switch panel. I really like the way the Trans Am dash and console look in the Camaro
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In my ongoing effort to update the car with the latest and greatest parts I have teamed up with Eric at Midwest Chassis I will be swapping out the entire suspension system to Midwest. The new K-member is lighter and will mount the rack in a way to give me more engine clearance there spindles and arms are lighter and will offer more adjustability. The new much lighter torque arm will offer more adjustability. The fabricated rear end with an aluminum housing and pro gear will chop a ton of weight off the car. Coupled with the afco double adustable coil overs and anti roll bar I’m looking forward to some much better power management. I was all coffee’d up and stripped the entire suspension out of the car this morning and disassembled the parts. Major garage sale in progress with two 9” rearends for sale
In no way am i trying to be rude but why buy a roller that has been mid 7's and has full suspension and tear it all apart? Seems it would have been cheaper just to buy a v6 stock roller for $300 bucks and go from there?
25.5 cage is not cheap... lol.. and maybe midwest is local to him.. nice build man!
did you have an fittings on the rad. when the line came off? hitting water at the 1000' foot mark cant be fun..
did you have an fittings on the rad. when the line came off? hitting water at the 1000' foot mark cant be fun..
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the car looks great so far! this is one project i will definetly be keeping an eye on. cant wait to see where it goes from here.
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Good question I went back and foth on this but the answer is because I need to be at the next level. I need to go as fast as the car did before only with a smaller turbo and tire. Just like gutting the wiring or switching to the TA interior, I didnt have to but I wanted it to be nicer/better.
I did not have AN fittings. It was completely my fault for not having a better hose system
I did not have AN fittings. It was completely my fault for not having a better hose system
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From: mansfield ohio
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From: mansfield ohio
Got my fuel rails and a spacer. The spacer needs about 3/16ths knocked out of the corners but it is closer than the other ones I tried. I will drill and tap some holes for sensors and the BOV, then get it polished so it will match the rest of the intake. I think I am going to clear coat it to cut down on the maintenance.
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Got some more parts. I love the Design Engineering Products. I will have a lot of interference with the oil and radiator lines so I got these hose covers. Good for 2000* radiant heat. The spark plug insulating kits work great and the titanium wrap speaks for itself. Got a blanket to insulate the dry sump pump and a beautiful turbine housing blanket. I can’t wait to see these products on the car.
