PCV/ Catch Can help please.
#21
#22
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Conan - no chance of oil going into the blower? I know the catch can is to catch the oil but what if? Just asking because I'm wrapping up my d1sc install and have a sealed can and oil cap breather to hook up.
#23
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I wouldn't say NO chance but it would take care of anything major. I'm going to switch to this setup this summer and see what happens. I have the port on the D1 f body hat blocked off now. I'll watch the blower hat for oil and go back to the vented can if its pulling more oil than I would like to see.
#24
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valvecovers to catch can, catch can to pcv valve (1 way check) valve to intake after the tb.
line that used to connect to top of tb when stock is fresh air source, route this end to in front of the blower.. other end of this hose should be hooked to valley cover if you have one to limit oil ingestion
if you are making a lot of power and still want factory pcv operation as above, i have more info available via pm.
line that used to connect to top of tb when stock is fresh air source, route this end to in front of the blower.. other end of this hose should be hooked to valley cover if you have one to limit oil ingestion
if you are making a lot of power and still want factory pcv operation as above, i have more info available via pm.
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Wet catch cans are messie....
Hello guys and girls, the best catch can out there is probably 10 to 15 % efficient, and if you connect the vacuum to the inlet of your turbo or super charger, you will suck the other 85 to 90% of the oil in to your blower and the rest of the intake track, and in to the cylinders, is going to happen, the other option in to ran free air, which will make the car smell like a oil waste dump, so whats the solution? A dry catch can. The mama of any one who makes the claim that you heard of this before, i do make absolute claim that this is a Camster invention, therefore it should be called here and after the "Camster catch can". I came up with this solution with my previous personal project several years back, and i think is worthy of making is way into the best rides out there, and i else know is need it, so i will not hold this secret any more.
The project is simple, my original dry 100% effective catch can where actually made of two upside down oil plastic quarts, however my present set is a bit mare refined, and can be checked out in 'my new N-A project' in the gen 4 internal engine section in this forum, and for some reason no one has noticed them at all, but here is, a simple solution i found.....
i used a 2 1/2 inch alum pipe and cut it to my desire length, about 8" long, made 2 round covers to cup it off with, i used two cans for my AP but one central piece will work too. the top cover will have a 3/8 diam pipe welded in the center, for a small diam filter in case of boost, in my case at present time i have it connected to the intake, cause is a N-A project, the bottom cover will have a -10 male bung welded to it, and there will be another -10 male bung welded to the side of the can 1/2 inch from the bottom, the bottom bung will be connected directly to the oil pan just below the rail, where it won't interfere with the motor mounts, starter and other accessories, via another -10 male bung, the interior of the can will have a tile setter type sponge, to separate the oily fumes from its oil and in case of boost, it Will have a final filter at top wish will always stay clean and dry, OK so what happens with the side bung? it will connect to the valve cover, via another -10 male bung, and it doesn't mater if oil comes in from it, the oil will drain back to the oil pan via the button bung connected hose, i use -10 nylon light braided blue dots Earl hose for this purpose. I welded the bottom cover so there won't be any leaks, the top cover will only be tack welded after the sponge was inserted, so it won't burn. Now you can connect this to your blower or turbo inlet filter area without socking oil into your engine if you want, instead of the filter on top of the can, and your intake track will remain dry. I used a 1/8 by 1/2 flat bar welded across 1/2 inch from the bottom inside the can to keep the sponge from the bottom to aid, the oil return.. If you plan to connect to your blower inlet, on top instead of the 1/2 inch pipe, weld a -6 90 degrees male bung and another -6 male bung to your inlet filter track area.
I welded an angle behind the outlet inside the oil pan to keep the oil from splashing directly in to the hose.
OK so a big plus, with this system is, will not allow the crank case to be pressurized, so now you don't need a vacuum pump, and they should be worth in the neighborhood of 30 whp and cleaner spark plugs,
and no smoke out the tail pipe.
If anyone plan to criticize this invention you better have a better solution, and get it out the bag, i do know improvements in the filtering element can be made, but it worked for me.
For those of you who think, this is a lot of bla bla bla, is because you don't have a driver's licence.....
The project is simple, my original dry 100% effective catch can where actually made of two upside down oil plastic quarts, however my present set is a bit mare refined, and can be checked out in 'my new N-A project' in the gen 4 internal engine section in this forum, and for some reason no one has noticed them at all, but here is, a simple solution i found.....
i used a 2 1/2 inch alum pipe and cut it to my desire length, about 8" long, made 2 round covers to cup it off with, i used two cans for my AP but one central piece will work too. the top cover will have a 3/8 diam pipe welded in the center, for a small diam filter in case of boost, in my case at present time i have it connected to the intake, cause is a N-A project, the bottom cover will have a -10 male bung welded to it, and there will be another -10 male bung welded to the side of the can 1/2 inch from the bottom, the bottom bung will be connected directly to the oil pan just below the rail, where it won't interfere with the motor mounts, starter and other accessories, via another -10 male bung, the interior of the can will have a tile setter type sponge, to separate the oily fumes from its oil and in case of boost, it Will have a final filter at top wish will always stay clean and dry, OK so what happens with the side bung? it will connect to the valve cover, via another -10 male bung, and it doesn't mater if oil comes in from it, the oil will drain back to the oil pan via the button bung connected hose, i use -10 nylon light braided blue dots Earl hose for this purpose. I welded the bottom cover so there won't be any leaks, the top cover will only be tack welded after the sponge was inserted, so it won't burn. Now you can connect this to your blower or turbo inlet filter area without socking oil into your engine if you want, instead of the filter on top of the can, and your intake track will remain dry. I used a 1/8 by 1/2 flat bar welded across 1/2 inch from the bottom inside the can to keep the sponge from the bottom to aid, the oil return.. If you plan to connect to your blower inlet, on top instead of the 1/2 inch pipe, weld a -6 90 degrees male bung and another -6 male bung to your inlet filter track area.
I welded an angle behind the outlet inside the oil pan to keep the oil from splashing directly in to the hose.
OK so a big plus, with this system is, will not allow the crank case to be pressurized, so now you don't need a vacuum pump, and they should be worth in the neighborhood of 30 whp and cleaner spark plugs,
and no smoke out the tail pipe.
If anyone plan to criticize this invention you better have a better solution, and get it out the bag, i do know improvements in the filtering element can be made, but it worked for me.
For those of you who think, this is a lot of bla bla bla, is because you don't have a driver's licence.....
#29
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Only problem, is a big one, you will need the engine to disperse the blow-by gasses at wide open throttle where there's lots more of them present, and at which time, the system will be shot down. Your system is cleaver, and nothing personal, I'm just trying to help..
#30
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Study it...
Just picture a catch can with two -10 hoses, one 1/2 inch from the bottom the other at the bottom, and at top a 90 degrees -6 male bung, coming off the center, so you could screw in, an an hose from it, and hook that to your inlet filter area of your favorite pump.
The side connection goes to the valve cover,
the bottom to the oil pan. This system will provide 4 -10 = to a 2" pipe bringing out the gasses/blow-by out of your engine four corners at all times, no way to ever experience crankcase positive pressure, in fact when connected to vacuum as specified, will provide the must vacuum at wide open throttle, and never a drop of oil, in your intake track.
#33
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You have two -10 lines from each of the two catch cans, one to the v cover and the other to the oil pan, that's two -10 to the oil pan and two -10 to the v covers, how many is that? Now each -10 = 1/2 inch ID x 4 = 2"...
Another beauty of this system is, you naver have to empty the cans, plus if you have to ran a oil return line, just hook it up to the bottom of you choice can via another a-n fitting for an easy professional finish, man do i really need to say more, i really do hope you enjoy this stuff...
#37
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ok anyways...
nodrok where is the other end of your can hooked to? as i have stated before there is little to no vacuum at the pre-filter area during normal driving.. and if you have a good air filter, there is not very much ALL the time.
you may not be catching anything because there may not be any airflow
nodrok where is the other end of your can hooked to? as i have stated before there is little to no vacuum at the pre-filter area during normal driving.. and if you have a good air filter, there is not very much ALL the time.
you may not be catching anything because there may not be any airflow
#38
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OK anyways...
nodrok where is the other end of your can hooked to? as i have stated before there is little to no vacuum at the pre-filter area during normal driving.. and if you have a good air filter, there is not very much ALL the time.
you may not be catching anything because there may not be any airflow
nodrok where is the other end of your can hooked to? as i have stated before there is little to no vacuum at the pre-filter area during normal driving.. and if you have a good air filter, there is not very much ALL the time.
you may not be catching anything because there may not be any airflow
#40
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Camster is this the pic?
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c1..._/IMG_1419.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c1..._/IMG_1419.jpg