Procharger Cam
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From: OKC, OK
Procharger Cam What would be a good cam to run with a Procharger at 10psi and still see some good gains without the Procharger? It will be a year until I will be able to get the charger but it would be nice to see some gains this year. Mid 12s is just not satisfying me any more.
Last edited by 98Raptor; Mar 23, 2004 at 08:18 PM.
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From: de, usa
http://www.lingenfelter.com/lingenfe...24&pf%5Fid=102
I plan on going with LPE's GT2-3, and I'll probably order 2, 1 for the z and the other for my bone stock 5.3 silverado
I plan on going with LPE's GT2-3, and I'll probably order 2, 1 for the z and the other for my bone stock 5.3 silverado
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From: OKC, OK
Originally Posted by 00a4z28
http://www.lingenfelter.com/lingenfe...24&pf%5Fid=102
I plan on going with LPE's GT2-3, and I'll probably order 2, 1 for the z and the other for my bone stock 5.3 silverado
I plan on going with LPE's GT2-3, and I'll probably order 2, 1 for the z and the other for my bone stock 5.3 silverado
Sounds a bit expensive. But then again that is Lingenfelter for you. Nice lift. The duration and LSA are not much different from stock is that what I should be looking for? A cam with higher lifts but pretty much the same on everything else?
What kind of gain do you think I would see without the charger? My guess would be about 20rwhp.
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From: ThirteenHundredPostsVille, CA
I ordered Thunder Racing's Blower Cam:
224/227 .563/.569 114 LSA to replace my TR224-112, to go with the ATI D1-SC I am installing mid April. I am leaving the 918 springs in along with the Ti Retainers and hardered push rods from the old cam since they only have 6-7k miles on them
So we'll see how well it works out soon
If you are swapping cams, you may want to look into that other stuff as well: springs, retainers, push rods, and possibly an oil pump and timing set.
224/227 .563/.569 114 LSA to replace my TR224-112, to go with the ATI D1-SC I am installing mid April. I am leaving the 918 springs in along with the Ti Retainers and hardered push rods from the old cam since they only have 6-7k miles on them
So we'll see how well it works out soonIf you are swapping cams, you may want to look into that other stuff as well: springs, retainers, push rods, and possibly an oil pump and timing set.
Originally Posted by CamaroSS1618
What do you guys think of this:
116 CL
intake: .335 exhaust: .335
Total lift: .570 (intake) Total Lift: .335
.212 duration .216
How would it perform?
116 CL
intake: .335 exhaust: .335
Total lift: .570 (intake) Total Lift: .335
.212 duration .216
How would it perform?
You both can go with a 224/230 .575-.585on the intake and a .585-.595 on the exhaust on a 114 LSA..... Never just replace the cam and not change valve springs........... go with a good set of springs and a new set of pushrods and you should be fine..... it will make plenty of power on motor to tide you over till you install the blower...
Kyle
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From: OKC, OK
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Way to small.... wouldnt even be worth the time or money spent to get it...... I had a baby 212/218 .522/.529 in mine and i wished i had went bigger fron the start...
You both can go with a 224/230 .575-.585on the intake and a .585-.595 on the exhaust on a 114 LSA..... Never just replace the cam and not change valve springs........... go with a good set of springs and a new set of pushrods and you should be fine..... it will make plenty of power on motor to tide you over till you install the blower...
Kyle
You both can go with a 224/230 .575-.585on the intake and a .585-.595 on the exhaust on a 114 LSA..... Never just replace the cam and not change valve springs........... go with a good set of springs and a new set of pushrods and you should be fine..... it will make plenty of power on motor to tide you over till you install the blower...
Kyle
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I'd go with a cam that was around 222/224 intake, 228/230 exhaust, for 10 psi and a 6500 rpm shift point. The more you push the blower the wider split you want. But you have to be careful about running too much intake duration because too much intake will raise your power peak to the point where your power band could end higher than where you want to shift a car (or a car with a stock bottom end)
Originally Posted by 98Raptor
What would be a good cam to run with a Procharger at 10psi and still see some good gains without the Procharger? It will be a year until I will be able to get the charger but it would be nice to see some gains this year. Mid 12s is just not satisfying me any more.
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From: OKC, OK
Originally Posted by TWS
Would you be satisfied with mid 11's? A D-1SC at a "mere" 8 psi laid down 479 RWHP in my stock internal '02 Z28. I've only had it out to the track once, but I ran 11.71 twice, back to back, and hitting the rev limiter (4.10's) at about 1100 feet. The car is easily good for 11.4's, just need to bump my limiter a tad and roll out on slightly taller tires, which I now have.
Senior cam designers have said to run more split with race-oriented builds. 8-12 degree split stuff would be considered more race-oriented. But in our scene we tend to push the envelope so we are all race-oriented.
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From: OKC, OK
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Senior cam designers have said to run more split with race-oriented builds. 8-12 degree split stuff would be considered more race-oriented. But in our scene we tend to push the envelope so we are all race-oriented.
What cam are you running?
Oh and to the guy running the B1; Some cam designers indicated that they would start out with single pattern cams for 5-6 psi setups.
I am running a FMS/ Cam Motion 230/236, 115 LSA = 3.5 degrees of overlap at .050. I think it's +2 I can't remember it's in my notes.
I am running a FMS/ Cam Motion 230/236, 115 LSA = 3.5 degrees of overlap at .050. I think it's +2 I can't remember it's in my notes.
