Procharger GTO MPG
I currently get 9-10mpg on e85 with 80% highway driving at 60-65 mph (12.5-13 on 93oct)
Forged 364 (9.1:1 compression)
L92 heads
L76 intake
Blower cam (Dur @ .050 232 int 240 exh Lift .595 int .608 exh Lobe Sep 115.0)
F1A Procharger with 3.55 pulley making 16psi)
96lb @4bar injectors
twin walbro 255s with BAP
4L80e
3600 stall (mpg was the same with stock 80e stall)
If my MPG seems correct would swapping out the L92's for 243 heads help?
(bump in compression ratio and better intake port velocity)
I am also experiencing a low rpm/low load missfire that I am pretty sure I can relate to the big intake ports/big cam
thanks in advance
Im seeing around 11-12 mpg on the e85 but I do hit boost here and there and you can just watch the needle drop and never recover. I cant tighten up the tune a bit and not run 18 psi in my drag radials all the time would help too. Id think if you floored it less you could pick up a few mpg yourself LOL
I just wanted to compare and make sure it was right.
P.S.....im not digging the "Mad Dog" add below my post with his bad rep but what are you gonna do...
I currently get 9-10mpg on e85 with 80% highway driving at 60-65 mph (12.5-13 on 93oct)
Forged 364 (9.1:1 compression)
L92 heads
L76 intake
Blower cam (Dur @ .050 232 int 240 exh Lift .595 int .608 exh Lobe Sep 115.0)
F1A Procharger with 3.55 pulley making 16psi)
96lb @4bar injectors
twin walbro 255s with BAP
4L80e
3600 stall (mpg was the same with stock 80e stall)
If my MPG seems correct would swapping out the L92's for 243 heads help?
(bump in compression ratio and better intake port velocity)
I am also experiencing a low rpm/low load missfire that I am pretty sure I can relate to the big intake ports/big cam
thanks in advance
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
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My previous engine( before a wrist pin committed suicide ) was exactly the same as this one except 10.5:1 compression ratio and my fuel mileage was exactly the same.
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Stock cruise timing was designed for 10:1 and E0/E10. Now two factors of lower compression and higher octane fuel have slowed the burn rate during combustion and lowered power output. Getting timing on the hairy edge will get the most out of what you got.
In a perfect world, the best way to do this is with a real-time programmer and a load bearing dyno. That way you could play with the timing at different throttle and RPM ranges and get max power (MBT) figured out across the board. This is the way automakers come up with the base spark map.
In the real world, this will be a trial and error process when done on the street. Assuming you still have knock sensors in place you could bump up your timing a degree at a time until you either get knock or mpg stop improving. JMHO









