Boiling fuel or cavitation in boosted application?
I think you're going in the right direction.
Can you run a bigger cell? I run a aeromotive elimator aswell with same filter, going thru a boost referenced regulator. But i'm carbed and I street drive the car all the time no issues. I would look into either bigger sump or fuel cooler moroso sells one cheap
The speed controller has two activation methods, one is a set rpm threshold, i.e. @ 3k rpm it goes to full speed. Problem with this is I cruise at 3k rpm on the highway. I supposed I could set it even higher, but one the 2 step/tbrake I can build boost at lower rpm’s then just flashing the converter so I’d inherently still risk boosting at the lower speed setting.
The other activation method is “manually switched” activation. If you ground one of the pins it puts the pump into the high speed mode. This is where I’d use the pressure switch. Set the pressure switch to ground that pin at say 2psi of manifold pressure. Aeromotive claims the eliminator at low speed supports ~500rw, there is no way my motor would make nearly that much without a lot more than 2 psi so it seems like this would cover me well.
As I am sure you know the controller doesn’t simply provide lower voltage to the pump as that would blow it up, the controller pulses the pump to achieve the low speed operation, this is why I’d have to use my pump speed controller in conjunction with the pressure switch for activation of the controller.
I already own the speed controller just hadn’t been using it since it doesn’t pick up my tach signal from my 0411 pcm without the $80 tach driver (and I hadn’t had a problem with the fuel overheating before it started getting hot outside with this new turbo setup).
The speed controller has two activation methods, one is a set rpm threshold, i.e. @ 3k rpm it goes to full speed. Problem with this is I cruise at 3k rpm on the highway. I supposed I could set it even higher, but one the 2 step/tbrake I can build boost at lower rpm’s then just flashing the converter so I’d inherently still risk boosting at the lower speed setting.
The other activation method is “manually switched” activation. If you ground one of the pins it puts the pump into the high speed mode. This is where I’d use the pressure switch. Set the pressure switch to ground that pin at say 2psi of manifold pressure. Aeromotive claims the eliminator at low speed supports ~500rw, there is no way my motor would make nearly that much without a lot more than 2 psi so it seems like this would cover me well.
As I am sure you know the controller doesn’t simply provide lower voltage to the pump as that would blow it up, the controller pulses the pump to achieve the low speed operation, this is why I’d have to use my pump speed controller in conjunction with the pressure switch for activation of the controller.
The speed controller has two activation methods, one is a set rpm threshold, i.e. @ 3k rpm it goes to full speed. Problem with this is I cruise at 3k rpm on the highway. I supposed I could set it even higher, but one the 2 step/tbrake I can build boost at lower rpm’s then just flashing the converter so I’d inherently still risk boosting at the lower speed setting.
The other activation method is “manually switched” activation. If you ground one of the pins it puts the pump into the high speed mode. This is where I’d use the pressure switch. Set the pressure switch to ground that pin at say 2psi of manifold pressure. Aeromotive claims the eliminator at low speed supports ~500rw, there is no way my motor would make nearly that much without a lot more than 2 psi so it seems like this would cover me well.
As I am sure you know the controller doesn’t simply provide lower voltage to the pump as that would blow it up, the controller pulses the pump to achieve the low speed operation, this is why I’d have to use my pump speed controller in conjunction with the pressure switch for activation of the controller.
Sounds like a solid plan to set it at 2psi, hell you might find that you have to tune around that too much with fueling or VE and set it higher at like 5-6psi. Just find out what works best, you have always figured the other problems out I know you'll get this one worked out too.
I honestly didn't know that it pulsed, as when I bought my last turbo car from Mighty Mouse it already had dual walboro's and I never had to research that aspect of a bigger pump(s) or one that needed a speed controller to work. I was aware of the controller and what it's function was, but not how it actually achieved that function.
Sounds like a solid plan to set it at 2psi, hell you might find that you have to tune around that too much with fueling or VE and set it higher at like 5-6psi. Just find out what works best, you have always figured the other problems out I know you'll get this one worked out too.
Sounds like a solid plan to set it at 2psi, hell you might find that you have to tune around that too much with fueling or VE and set it higher at like 5-6psi. Just find out what works best, you have always figured the other problems out I know you'll get this one worked out too.
And it doesn't "pulse" it like on-off-on-off
Per their site
Per their site
Avoid any device that reduces voltage to your fuel pump. Low voltage will destroy a 12V DC motor. The Aeromotive FPSC does not reduce voltage! The FPSC emits a pulse modulation signal that is harmless to the pump’s motor.
simple free test, remove ALL the filters and see if it helps.
last 'street/race' car i worked on with an aeromotive pump and controller i took that **** off and threw it in the garbage. owner couldn't be happier with the results.
one 255 to drive around on, one bosch 340 under boost via eboost trigger got him 1200 to the tires. one from each corner of a small sumped tank.
last 'street/race' car i worked on with an aeromotive pump and controller i took that **** off and threw it in the garbage. owner couldn't be happier with the results.
one 255 to drive around on, one bosch 340 under boost via eboost trigger got him 1200 to the tires. one from each corner of a small sumped tank.
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Verdad Gallardo MM any thoughts? I know your BS3 triggers your two other 255's via TPS % would he have to pull some fuel out of where the second pump kicked on at?
you will see a slight jump in pressure as flow increases, nothing to write home about unless you have an undersized regulator/return.
if your regulator can hold the pressure down at idle now with the pump on full blast, then idling with the pump on 'half blast' should be a piece of cake.
if your regulator can hold the pressure down at idle now with the pump on full blast, then idling with the pump on 'half blast' should be a piece of cake.
not trying to defend aeromotive here, but wouldn't running 1 small pump and 1 large aux pump (triggered by a third device) introduce as much (if not more) room for failure then the aeromotive controller. at least with the controller there is a 50/50 chance it'll fail on high or that it will just fail all together (thus the engine stalls). with the aux pump the trigger could fail and/or the pump itself, either of which would go unnoticed until you leaned it WAY out and popped the motor.
obviously this is not "likely", but failures never are i suppose
obviously this is not "likely", but failures never are i suppose
not trying to defend aeromotive here, but wouldn't running 1 small pump and 1 large aux pump (triggered by a third device) introduce as much (if not more) room for failure then the aeromotive controller. at least with the controller there is a 50/50 chance it'll fail on high or that it will just fail all together (thus the engine stalls). with the aux pump the trigger could fail and/or the pump itself, either of which would go unnoticed until you leaned it WAY out and popped the motor.
obviously this is not "likely", but failures never are i suppose
obviously this is not "likely", but failures never are i suppose
You have several options to choose from.
Like MM said, it's kinda about what your plans are for the car. If you want it to be able to idle for extended periods of time and then run full out, find the most dependable way to do it.
Race cars just have to go full out and don't need to really worry about idle.
You get the picture
That's what u need then. I couldn't remember which one was more free flowing. I had the same issue with twin A1000 pumps on my old setup. I switched to the aeromotive 100 micron stainless filters and it fixed the problem completely
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton AB
I know when we run an aeromotive a1000 or eliminator pump we run a minimum -12 in and -10 out to the Y. Running a typical oil cooler as a fuel cooler does wonders. Install it on the return side of the fuel system. The fuel controller is a must in my books. I have used them with zero issues.
aeromotive, boil, boiling, boost, boosting, cavitating, cavitation, cell, fpsc, fuel, hot, leash, ls1, ls1tech, overheating, setup
