Crap! Still overheating
#21
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Huh](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/huh.gif)
anyways, here's what i'm gonna do once i have the time
1-re-intall air dam.
2-lift the front and run to get rid of bubbles (ls1's are so bubbly
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
3-if 1&2 don't work i'll add more fans or upgrade to higher flowing ones. (going to be tight)
4- if non-of the above works i'll look into replacing or moving the condenser.
first of all i'm gonna have to endure a ride in 125* weather without the A/C on to test if it is really the condenser that's causing all of this. (that part will have to wait until after Ramadan, i'm not going out in this weather if i can't drink at least a gallon of water
![Offtopic](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies3/offtopic.gif)
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
thanks all you guys, you have been a great help, i'll update soon with the results.
#22
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Good luck.
I literally haven't driven my car much at all during the hot season since 2005 after the install of the ATI D1 SC. Immediately thereafter the overheating problems started. It has been frustrating for sure and I have experimented with just about everything possible to solve the problem short of removing the ATI system and going back to stock.
I even tried the three row BeCool radiator thinking the cooling capacity of the radiator was the issue. It didn't help either - in fact it created higher temps in the engine bay because there is less room to move expelled air from the radiator because of the additional width of the radiator. So I went back to the LT1 radiator - no difference.
In your list there are some simple things I would do or check or perhaps you forgot to list.
Reduce you antifreeze mixture. It is a fact - water removes heat better than a 50/50 mix of antifreeze. Keep about 10-20 percent as there are additives in the antifreeze that will keep the coolant system from damage.
Check your AC condensor - if it has never been cleaned - usually the bottom four inches is blocked with debris which means you've lost about 10-15 percent of the efficiency of the AC condensor in addition to the fact that you are moving less air to the radiator as well.
As for a remote AC condensor. Your best and cheapest solution is to get the real thing instead of a transmission cooler. Something like this for example - see link below. And it's not too much more expensive than the fan assisted transmission cooler once you modify it to accept AC lines.
They also make custom tubing with connections to connect the remote condensor.
http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalo...120132073.html
hth
I literally haven't driven my car much at all during the hot season since 2005 after the install of the ATI D1 SC. Immediately thereafter the overheating problems started. It has been frustrating for sure and I have experimented with just about everything possible to solve the problem short of removing the ATI system and going back to stock.
I even tried the three row BeCool radiator thinking the cooling capacity of the radiator was the issue. It didn't help either - in fact it created higher temps in the engine bay because there is less room to move expelled air from the radiator because of the additional width of the radiator. So I went back to the LT1 radiator - no difference.
In your list there are some simple things I would do or check or perhaps you forgot to list.
Reduce you antifreeze mixture. It is a fact - water removes heat better than a 50/50 mix of antifreeze. Keep about 10-20 percent as there are additives in the antifreeze that will keep the coolant system from damage.
Check your AC condensor - if it has never been cleaned - usually the bottom four inches is blocked with debris which means you've lost about 10-15 percent of the efficiency of the AC condensor in addition to the fact that you are moving less air to the radiator as well.
As for a remote AC condensor. Your best and cheapest solution is to get the real thing instead of a transmission cooler. Something like this for example - see link below. And it's not too much more expensive than the fan assisted transmission cooler once you modify it to accept AC lines.
They also make custom tubing with connections to connect the remote condensor.
http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalo...120132073.html
hth
#23
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've just done a 20 minutes drive with the A/C off, and the temps seem holding on 195-200* , i'm hoping it'll continue to go down after i go through the list, thanks again for the great input dlandsvz28.
#25
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Iron block 370cid front mount turbo, it creeps up to 230* some time after a long ride with A/C on, i don't like that one bit... I need a once and for all 180-195* coolant temp solution...
#26
Banned
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi, i just replaced my OEM radiator with a be cool unit, my water pump is electric (mezier) 160stat , and the car still overheats with ac on, or runs hot (200-220)
I read somewhere that the ac condenser might be dumping too much hot air on the radiator causing it to heat up.
I was wondering if i could use a transmission cooler as an A/C condenser, seeing that it has been used the other way around by some ppl on the forum (condenser as oil cooler).
That way i can mount a double pass independant unit with its own fan away from the radiator.
Any thoughts?
I read somewhere that the ac condenser might be dumping too much hot air on the radiator causing it to heat up.
I was wondering if i could use a transmission cooler as an A/C condenser, seeing that it has been used the other way around by some ppl on the forum (condenser as oil cooler).
That way i can mount a double pass independant unit with its own fan away from the radiator.
Any thoughts?
At the age of your car....and if the condensor has never been properly EXTERNALLY cleaned.....just get a new one. You will see an amazing difference in temps and the A/C will blow ice cold, no matter how hot it is outside. My a/c is TOO cold when I drive around in 100*F weather down here.......because my condensor is totally clean. I clean it every 2 years now. My temps are at 190*F with the A/C blasting on the highway in the hot summer. It might get up to 220*F in stop and go traffic on a hot day if I'm not racing it all over the place, just driving it nice.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...%2Fc+condensor
.
#27
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Great writeup LS6427
Cleaning the AC condensor was one of the first things I did when my overheating started. Although it was somewhat dirty, it wasn't nearly as plugged at yours. Just the bottom 4 - 5 inches was completely plugged with dirt and debris - small sand pebbles.
The 2 by four method works, as well as a spray of soap and water to emulsify the dirt that clogs the fins. I used low air pressure to blow through the fins - but you have to be very careful, because as you say, you can bend the fins with high air pressure from air or water pressure. I would never use a pressure washer because the water will bend every fin on the condensor.
Fortunately there is a fin spreader (Harbor Freight) you can use to straighten out the fins that are bent and close off air flow.
Patience is key when cleaning. Spray and soak, spray and soak, eventually every fin will be cleaned of debris.
FWIW - the small water radiators on my Honda riding mowers plug almost completely with grass and dirt. It's a yearly maintenance chore that must not be overlooked or you will cook the engine.
Cleaning the AC condensor was one of the first things I did when my overheating started. Although it was somewhat dirty, it wasn't nearly as plugged at yours. Just the bottom 4 - 5 inches was completely plugged with dirt and debris - small sand pebbles.
The 2 by four method works, as well as a spray of soap and water to emulsify the dirt that clogs the fins. I used low air pressure to blow through the fins - but you have to be very careful, because as you say, you can bend the fins with high air pressure from air or water pressure. I would never use a pressure washer because the water will bend every fin on the condensor.
Fortunately there is a fin spreader (Harbor Freight) you can use to straighten out the fins that are bent and close off air flow.
Patience is key when cleaning. Spray and soak, spray and soak, eventually every fin will be cleaned of debris.
FWIW - the small water radiators on my Honda riding mowers plug almost completely with grass and dirt. It's a yearly maintenance chore that must not be overlooked or you will cook the engine.
#30
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Did you find a solution?
My car, after a larger radiator and addition fan(s) still seems to creep up to 220-230*. I also have ac and running an OFI front mount T6 kit.
Engine is a worked over LQ9 block with 317 heads.
My car, after a larger radiator and addition fan(s) still seems to creep up to 220-230*. I also have ac and running an OFI front mount T6 kit.
Engine is a worked over LQ9 block with 317 heads.
#31
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well actually not really, but the main perp right now is the old and dirty A/C condenser, and the weather isn't so bad here right now so i guess it's smooth sailing for the coming months, i was about to go with really high flow dual pusher fans, but that's gonna have to wait.
#32
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well actually not really, but the main perp right now is the old and dirty A/C condenser, and the weather isn't so bad here right now so i guess it's smooth sailing for the coming months, i was about to go with really high flow dual pusher fans, but that's gonna have to wait.
And it is all because of the ac condensor location which is just in front of the radiator.
I have come to the conclusion that the only way to keep temp levels between 185 and 220 and still run the AC is to move the ac condenser to a location just in front of the windshield washer tank.
Moving the ac condensor forward will provide unrestricted air flow to the radiator. I can guarantee my car (and I think a lot of others) will never overheat again. Proof of that is too simply turn off the AC and overheating problems stop and go away. Try it.
A side effect of moving the AC condenser will be cooler engine compartment temps as well because instead of expelling 220 temps into the engine compartment from the puller fans - the temps will be around 185.
This will be my project this winter. All I need to do is create a bracket to hang the ac condenser just aft of the my front mounted intercooler. And then attach longer ac hoses onto the condensor.
In addition, with no ac condensor in front of the radiator, this means I can push the radiator ahead by a new inches. Two or three inches of additional clearance behind the radiator means there will be room for two inch 14 inch puller fans instead of one 16 inch and and one 10 inch fan. Heck - there might even be room for the stock fans again - they just have to be flipped. Low on the driver side to high position, and high to low position on the passenger side.
I will post pics when I finish the project.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 10-10-2012 at 05:13 PM.