what about stealth? hes like over 850rw or is that c5r parts? i havent been keeping track.

*edit* oops i guess i forgot to show you guys this one

 

LOL oops what's that all about you fogghir!!!!! Why is that 830 not in your sig Dave?

Kurt sounds like the wiring is easier than I thought.

 

did i mess up your plans? dont worry bout that graph just get to the track man. you will crush me there no doubt.

 

hey john shouldnt you get in the 10's first....before wasting time on the 9.99 cert..

 

DOH.......I Heard that!
Kurt

 

On a more serious note, I found this secret video of PSJ's car on the dyno - this explains a lot:

http://www.fanta.dk/showmovie.asp?mi...5-A90D73C6DAAE

 

I've never seen such an obession with dyno numbers. You guys crack me up

 

 

I missed the 9.99 chassis cert appointment at RT66. But I'm not gonna push the car power-wise and then not be able to run it full out anywhere in the country.

Went up to Alston yesterday finally for a seat fitting. I brought Project Dragula up there for a 10 pt cage conversion. The car already had a 6 pt bar so they had to cut the side bars off and redo them. The cage is all done except for the driver's side door bar. I am having them make the driver's side a swingout since it would be hard for me to get in there.

For the Kirkey seats we are reusing the rear studs, might cut them down, we'll see. Making custom brackets that will reuse the front studs.

Car will be done next Monday. They are also installing a Madman manual rack, Spohn anti-roll bar, and my window net.

I have to regear the car and rewire parts of the FAST system so unfortunately there are two more things to do. I have a plan for the gear so that should only take a day, right now the bigger concern is rewiring the FAST. From the sounds of things it's not as hard to install the Edist as I thought, the Edist comes with a harness and the injectors plug right into that so really just need to wire the Edist to the FAST ECU. The crank sensor is just 3 wires so it should not be too bad; I want to move the crank box topside for easy access in case we have to remove it. This part of the project is very important. The car will have to be put back on the dyno so we can validate that everything is functionally properly... You may recall that a problem cropped up in my dyno sessions. The hybrid FAST/LS1 Edit approach worked to a point. The Cartek crank signal box that I have, which they only made a few of, appears to report inconsistent rpms readings to the FAST. From a tuning standpoint, it's a problem since the AF and timing from 3000 to 7300 rpms is going to vary. So the AF #'s were jumping around from 11:1 to 13:1 on the dyno. Things would have progressed a lot faster if I had not been stubborn and just used an MSD Crank Trigger. That setup however is not in the spirit of the project. The project as I designed it was to build a streetable setup that went mid 9's on race gas, but could be cruised on pump gas and would be potentially able to do the Power Tour. So I have been waiting for FAST to debut their Crank Signal Decoder box which is a small cube with three wires sticking out. Finally got one of the first ones. I have the first one released to the general public. But then again, I am one of the first people with a FAST system on an LS1 (not using an MSD crank trigger). This crank box was the missing link. It converts the LS1 24X signal to a 4X signal. The delay in getting the box to market was primarily due to FAST wanting to make this box work for other applications like the Dodge Hemi but in the end they realized that they needed to get this box out.

I plan to have Jim Moran rewire the FAST since he's one of the people around Chicago most familiar with the system and he's familiar with my setup. I also need him to go through the config files to set up base timing. I will use whatever numbers FAST gives us as a guide, but Jim will manually check the timing and do whatever he thinks makes sense. I believe it's supposed to be set to 20 degrees but I forget.

Hopefully in the end the car can make 750rwhp again but with a consistent rpm signal. It would be nice to rip out the YS and slap in a YSI and run some C16, but for now we'll redyno with C12 which is what we used for the prior four dyno sessions. And a YSi upgrade is not in the cards right now since I have a number of other expenses to address.

There you have it... Car has not made a pass since 11/02 and the last pass good pass it made was 11.02@123mph on a 1.50 short time @ 3550 raceweight with the old 422ci iron block ARE engine.

I'm getting excited... GLD or US41... GLD or US41... I think GLD.

 

I hope to bring some dyno queen #'s out soon

 

What he said.....

 

I would go to 41, longer shutdown and better hooking on average.

but

GLD if you want to drink heavily afterwards

tough decision

Boy I miss the old brat stop and broadway bob..

 

I love the Brat Stop but I would drink there if I had the trailer by the time I got home I'd be too tired to unload stuff.

US41 is the better track for me to try stuff and I do like the longer shutdown.