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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 05:06 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by jridenour31
This would be a pretty sick setup.
Thats what I'm counting on. A quick spooling setup that will allow the car to leave black marks off of a Stop sign(not that I'd ever be involved in something so immature and nefarious )

Last edited by N2OBaby; Nov 1, 2012 at 05:07 PM. Reason: I Kan't Spel Engrish wurds
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 05:34 PM
  #42  
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390 10:1 compression
Custom Boost cam
afr 225 or 317's
head studs
e85
160lb inj
gt50-88 single
huron speed kit (wait for the one that reatains a/c even )

good tires and 60 foot. 8's and over 1000rwhp.
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 06:15 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by I8UR4RD
390 10:1 compression
Custom Boost cam
afr 225 or 317's
head studs
e85
160lb inj
gt50-88 single
huron speed kit (wait for the one that reatains a/c even )

good tires and 60 foot. 8's and over 1000rwhp.
Is your block an LQ4 or 9?

The CR I was thinking about was 8.7-9.25:1 to allow for 16-21 Psi.


Sounds like you have/ are working on a great combo.
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 06:54 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by I8UR4RD
390 10:1 compression
Custom Boost cam
afr 225 or 317's
head studs
e85
160lb inj
gt50-88 single
huron speed kit (wait for the one that reatains a/c even )

good tires and 60 foot. 8's and over 1000rwhp.
You have the Huron kit?

BTW Jon is designing a twin kit. No release date
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 07:21 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by N2OBaby
Is your block an LQ4 or 9?

The CR I was thinking about was 8.7-9.25:1 to allow for 16-21 Psi.


Sounds like you have/ are working on a great combo.
Why do you have a psi you want to achieve? Should be a horsepower or ET goal.

The more efficient the motor NA the better it will be in boost.
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 08:36 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by MUSTANGBRKR02
Why do you have a psi you want to achieve? Should be a horsepower or ET goal.

The more efficient the motor NA the better it will be in boost.
It would be great to have the capacity in terms of Turbos & Fuel system to be able to see 1000-1200 FWHP but have the base tune around 750-820 FWHP.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by CHRIS-CBRPerformance
Rotary1307cc : It's simple math really, 378 cid x 1.4 hp per cube = 529.2 hp N/A.
That's not to much to ask out of a 10:1 378 with a good set of heads with the right piston
and ring package.
AS a good rule of thumb 14.7 psi will double the N/A hp if good fuel is used.
529.2 x 2 = 1058.4

So 945 hp is about 10% less than 1058.

Give or take a little the math works the numbers are real.

If you are having trouble making power without inflating you silicone couplers
like party balloons we can help you.
Originally Posted by CHRIS-CBRPerformance
It is not uncommon for N/A motor to be north of 100%.
When the motor has a ***** in N/A form it's not hard to make the #'s
with boost.

Read his thread, you won't read anywhere were he says I'm out of injector or I'm out of fuel pump or I'm out of compressor or the back pressure is to high or my vagina is itchy.

The only set back if you can call it that is wheel spin.
Originally Posted by CHRIS-CBRPerformance
I have a 9:1 434 sbc that dynoed 610 @ the fly wheel N/A on 93 pump gas.
So Mr Newton, how much boost will take for my motor to make 1000 @ the fly wheel?

I read these posts 3x and don't know which direction you are going with this. I read that the op wanted to run 9's or 10's and was debating between a single (which will get him there easy), or twins (which will also get him there). The first page of info had posts that were right on the money, and then things got weird. I put little faith in dyno times, as it ultimately comes down to mph, and I put even less faith in math on paper.
Chris buddy, you are cutting up Rotary1307cc's 8 second car? Trying to make power without blowing up the couplers... ok, he traps 157 with the and runs 125 in the 1/8. This is on 14psi and the wrong converter. Where are you getting blowing up the couplers? He's at 14 pounds, not 25+. And if spool time is a problem, I guess the 125mph in the 1/8 doesn't count for anything.
I'm guessing by the way 2000RATA swings from your cherries you built his project. When his 'explosive power' runs that mph on similar boost (boost within 3 psi), then post actual results to back your facts and claims.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 11:53 AM
  #48  
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How about some real world help that will actually help the op? Like the fact anything around or just under 400ci will blow the tires off NA, or with light boost from a single or twins. With my 402/PT8847/3.27 (6 speed, yes I know it's coming out this winter), I can stomp it from just off idle in 3rd gear and by 3200 be sideways, almost in the ditch. This is about 8psi at that rpm, and on DR. This is 3rd gear, meaning that 1st and 2nd are completely useless. Would twins spool quicker? Yes, ok, and how much more useless would that be on the street? Any automatic guys have at least a 2800-3200 rpm converter. What happens here? Stomp right into spool, and this is with a single (but hey, they don't spool or make any kind of power, ask MM ). And to everyone reading this who is agreeing with me, my car was this bad the last few years with an F1A.

A properly sized single or twins will get him where he wants to be easily, and he won't be able to hook the car on the street anyway.

This is providing the OP:
1)Stops changing his mind on what he expects from the car
2)Listens to reputable vendors giving NEUTRAL info (good and bad both ways)
3)Stops reading GMHP magazine articles. Lol

Last edited by hardbodeez; Nov 3, 2012 at 11:58 AM.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 12:45 PM
  #49  
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I have a ls2 block stroked to a 402 stock ls6 heads with valves and my car made 644 hp and 685 tq at 11psi with a precision billet 76 with a .98 ar. it makes peak tq at 3600 rpms. my cam is to small and the heads need changed because the power starts dropping off at 5600 rpms. But with 15 or so psi new heads and a cam I think I will be in the high 700's. It spools super fast and is a very simple design and thats why I picked it over a twin setup.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 01:29 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by ghost-1
I have a ls2 block stroked to a 402 stock ls6 heads with valves and my car made 644 hp and 685 tq at 11psi with a precision billet 76 with a .98 ar. it makes peak tq at 3600 rpms. my cam is to small and the heads need changed because the power starts dropping off at 5600 rpms. But with 15 or so psi new heads and a cam I think I will be in the high 700's. It spools super fast and is a very simple design and thats why I picked it over a twin setup.
It needs a bigger turbo first.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 01:50 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by LS1NOVA
It needs a bigger turbo first.
Problem is where it is located I can't fit anything larger.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 02:45 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Somebody09
I hate trash posts like this. Granted I've posted some dumb ******* ****, and will continue to, but jesus titty ******* christ I hate when people think 1/4 mile track numbers are the answer to everything. This world would be so BORING if everyone built his/her car with your goals in mind. Maybe 2000RATA's car was meant to be a comfortable-to-him (not comfortable-to-you) street car with gobs of low-end power.

I don't know what N2OBaby considers a streetable 9-10 second car, so maybe if he defined that more clearly, it would help. My definition would be really fast WITH factory-comfort or better... so that pretty much throws out all track-oriented suspension components, eliminating A/C, and/or putting in a cage.
They're just missing the point between throttle response and outright power. All they are concerned with is outright power for their 1/4 mile stuff where their foot never lifts the floor.
As you say, there is more to going fast than a simple short stretch of asphalt 1/4 mile long.
Some people might want to go around a race track or other such courses where throttle response and feel is very important. On a dragstrip with an auto, that really doesnt come into the equation.

IMO both setups can be built to spool well under all circumstances and also go very fast. You just need to choose the right turbo/s

There is no generic twins are easier, or singles are easier. Everyones car is different and will present different packaging challenges.
But there is little doubt multiple smaller units will spool easier than a single larger unit. How much is the question, and will that matter to the user.

Probably of far less importance than how to actually package the build.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 02:49 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by hardbodeez
I read these posts 3x and don't know which direction you are going with this...
Chris buddy, you are cutting up Rotary1307cc's 8 second car? This is on 14psi and the wrong converter.

I'm guessing by the way 2000RATA swings from your cherries you built his project.
Let's get some things back to straight. You completely missed the sarcasm in Chris's post about ballooning silicone couplers. Rotary has lead us readers into believing it takes alot more boost than 14 psi or so to make 900+ power. That's misleading. And no where did Chris cut up his car's performance. 8's is nasty. And on 14 psi? Very nice.

Your cherry swinging guess although humorous was wrong. I bought a turbo kit just like many others on here. The service was great, everything was as advertised. The car was built by me. Engine built by me period. Taking nothing away from Chris, but he has never even seen my car. I put his kit on. I chose the supporting parts. (They chose turbo size.) I am extremely pleased with how the kit fits. I gave up nothing on the car for it.

So as you seem to be swinging from rotary's cherries realize this in defending him. He is the only one doing any attacking. He flat out says I am lying. If my numbers are inaccurate then the dyno shop needs to recalibrate their dyno. There is no need to attack me. I'm relaying in video how my build went just as the OP asked.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 03:24 PM
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Who said anything about lying?? More like magic dust sprinkled dyno


I would bet money that you could take your car and Nicd's car out and run them from a roll on the highway, which is your game

And lb of boost to lb of boost based on that dyno you should walk away...... but i bet it doesnt happen, him even with a stalled and unlocked auto
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 06:51 PM
  #55  
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In 1967 if you told a big block vett owner that one day you could by a vett that idled smooth would run low 11's high 10's get 25+ MPG and go 200 MPH he would call you a lyre.
Well guess what, the time has come.

This is an example of what can be done if the math is applied and the every detail is gone over and over.

Take a close look at the video, tell me how much smoke you see in the air, go on I'll wait.
You think that's a mistake? Well guess what it's not and nether is the power.

That's right, you don't, tell me how many dyno videos you see making this kind of power that the exhaust make a big cloud during and after the pull, most all of them.

We strive to do things right but you guys are so cliche that you don't notice things like
this to know it's right or wrong.

I'm sorry that it's not a LSX block 427 with Allpro heads and twin 78's on 18 psi
but it don't take that much to make this king of power whether you believe it or not.

Last edited by Chris@CBR; Nov 3, 2012 at 06:57 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 07:01 PM
  #56  
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Lol, that is all
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by CHRIS-CBRPerformance


Take a close look at the video, tell me how much smoke you see in the air, go on I'll wait.
You think that's a mistake? Well guess what it's not and nether is the power.

That's right, you don't, tell me how many dyno videos you see making this kind of power that the exhaust make a big cloud during and after the pull, most all of them.
I don't know what point your trying to make.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 08:22 PM
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When everything is right this is results you can expect.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
They're just missing the point between throttle response and outright power. All they are concerned with is outright power for their 1/4 mile stuff where their foot never lifts the floor.
As you say, there is more to going fast than a simple short stretch of asphalt 1/4 mile long.
Some people might want to go around a race track or other such courses where throttle response and feel is very important. On a dragstrip with an auto, that really doesnt come into the equation.

IMO both setups can be built to spool well under all circumstances and also go very fast. You just need to choose the right turbo/s

There is no generic twins are easier, or singles are easier. Everyones car is different and will present different packaging challenges.
But there is little doubt multiple smaller units will spool easier than a single larger unit. How much is the question, and will that matter to the user.

Probably of far less importance than how to actually package the build.
They're not really missing the point. In the OP's first post he stated 'I haven't seen conclusive proof which is the better route for a streetable 9-10Second car', which is what they are answering.

The rest of your post is dead on accurate, and if the OP is looking for other advice beyond this, then he's looking the wrong way.

Last edited by hardbodeez; Nov 3, 2012 at 11:33 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000RATA
Let's get some things back to straight. You completely missed the sarcasm in Chris's post about ballooning silicone couplers. Rotary has lead us readers into believing it takes alot more boost than 14 psi or so to make 900+ power. That's misleading. And no where did Chris cut up his car's performance. 8's is nasty. And on 14 psi? Very nice.

Your cherry swinging guess although humorous was wrong. I bought a turbo kit just like many others on here. The service was great, everything was as advertised. The car was built by me. Engine built by me period. Taking nothing away from Chris, but he has never even seen my car. I put his kit on. I chose the supporting parts. (They chose turbo size.) I am extremely pleased with how the kit fits. I gave up nothing on the car for it.

So as you seem to be swinging from rotary's cherries realize this in defending him. He is the only one doing any attacking. He flat out says I am lying. If my numbers are inaccurate then the dyno shop needs to recalibrate their dyno. There is no need to attack me. I'm relaying in video how my build went just as the OP asked.
Actually, Rotary1307CC was not attacking you, he was saying that he thinks your dyno numbers are a little on the high side. Many ppl come on here and claim big power dyno numbers and then run slow as ***** at the track. He doesn't think your car is slow, he just doesn't think the trap time will back the dyno numbers. Dynos can be off, but trap speeds don't lie. If you were to back your dyno claim up with a 155mph+ trap, your power claims will be more respected. If I'm gonna swing from anyone's cherries, it'll be from a guy with a proven car.

2000RATA, if cars could speak to each other, yours would say 'Don't make me get off these rollers!'. Lol.
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