Iron versus Aluminum when you do have a problem?
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,066
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From: West Palm Beach, Fl
Iron versus Aluminum when you do have a problem? I did a search but didn't see anything. On a forced induction application making around 750 to 950 hp, if something does go wrong, does an iron block have a significantly better chance of surviving than an aluminum block. It just seems like when there are any significant engine issues the aluminum blocks are toast even in an n/a application. I just didn't know if the irom blocks have a better chance of being able to be used again. Thanks
I've got 1030 rwhp on a alum LS2 block. If you encounter a problem that would cause a rod to come out of the alum block, more than likely the same will happen with the iron block, or as least cause enough damage to justify getting a new one. The iron blocks are stronger in some aspects but if you are building a street car I would stick to the aluminum. Just my .02.
both can be ruined by something bad happening just the same i feel.
now if something happen to the cylinder wall or something like that the iron block could be bored to the next size where the alum block have the liners that cant alway be saved.. specially the LS1/6 blocks...
i had an LS6 block soo i using what i had..... but will be going iron when it bites the dust
now if something happen to the cylinder wall or something like that the iron block could be bored to the next size where the alum block have the liners that cant alway be saved.. specially the LS1/6 blocks...
i had an LS6 block soo i using what i had..... but will be going iron when it bites the dust
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 256
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From: Geelong, Australia
Depends what goes wrong. If you can't keep the heads on it with an alloy block, I doubt you'd have any more success with an equivalent iron block for example.
This just happened to my LS2 block, so its safe to say I'm going iron now.
This just happened to my LS2 block, so its safe to say I'm going iron now.
